I really wish I could find some seat backs in good condition. Mine are all scratched up. That interior looks great.
Is that a OEM wheel or a rewrap?
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Dayummmmmmm. That looks so good, grats!Originally posted by TexaZ3 View PostNot something that I did today, but rather over the last few months - but I took some pictures today ))
I finally finished restoring interior on my car back to 100% factory fresh. Lots ot work here, lot of new original plastic and leather in this baby. New headliner, pillars, carpets. Everything from trim to leather, windows, seals, sunvisors - every inch of this car was brought back to as close to new as possible. 90k miles on this, btw.
IMG_6232 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6217 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6222 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6223 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6225 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6226 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6229 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6231 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6233 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6234 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6238 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6239 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6245 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6246 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6249 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
My project (1) by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6260 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6259 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6247 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
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Not something that I did today, but rather over the last few months - but I took some pictures today ))
I finally finished restoring interior on my car back to 100% factory fresh. Lots ot work here, lot of new original plastic and leather in this baby. New headliner, pillars, carpets. Everything from trim to leather, windows, seals, sunvisors - every inch of this car was brought back to as close to new as possible. 90k miles on this, btw.
IMG_6232 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6217 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6222 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6223 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6225 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6226 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6229 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6231 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6233 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6234 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6238 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6239 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6245 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6246 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6249 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
My project (1) by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6260 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6259 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
IMG_6247 by Italian Horses, on Flickr
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Ultrasonic cleaners are the standard for getting parts clean at every industrial toolshop, so yeah they work.Originally posted by Rokoz View Post
Are these ultrasonic cleaners the real deal? I see ads for them everywhere but nobody I know has one
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My wife went to Mexico and brought me some bits I needed to finish the CSL install that had stored there
the Z4 has a very conveniently located stud the places the connection pipe right where it needs to be.
It really is like BMW wanted it to be there LOL
Flashing the CSL map
Last edited by maupineda; 04-11-2025, 05:34 PM.
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Every nut and bolt I’ve taken off the car has gone into the cleaner before reassembly, huge help so far removing grease, debris and rust. Was able to put my whole battery tray in last week before a coat of paint. Looks brand new!Originally posted by Rokoz View Post
Are these ultrasonic cleaners the real deal? I see ads for them everywhere but nobody I know has one
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Are these ultrasonic cleaners the real deal? I see ads for them everywhere but nobody I know has oneOriginally posted by LSB__M3 View PostReassembly after a lengthy refresh of my TC Kline DA Coilovers. Wire wheeled the struts clean with a paint job, new bump stops, spherical bearings and a used set of TC Kline Camber plates. Tossed the springs into the ultrasonic cleaner too. Drastic before and after photos!
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Nothing! I'm still waiting for the oil pan cover (rear pickup strainer) (BMW PN 11137832020). My car has the larger diameter cover, and I can't find it in the US. The retailer I ordered it from won't have it until April 30th.
If anyone has a lead on a new or good used part CONUS I will jump on it.
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Finished with refreshing the diff bushings.
My diff started clunking again, which seemed strange as the last rebuild was not too long ago. Since the diff bushings were still poly, I wanted to change that anyways. I did poly when I started modding and did not know too much about it yet.
Today, I can just say that poly has no place in any bushings. Vibration damping is not good and material characteristics change from hard to soft over a short period of time.
As can be seen on the first image, the red poly front diff bushing started moving outward and the driver side rear bushing as well (forgot to take a pic of that). As a result, the diff was pretty much in the car crooked and complained via clunking. As can be seen in the second pic, the driveshaft started moving dangerously close towards one side almost making chassis contact.
Since my car is a track tool and I don't care about NVH, I decided to go solid metal. Installation was very simple. After the first test drive, everything feels as it should and no more clunking. NVH is not noticeably higher as it was with poly.
One other thing to mention is that I replaced all diff bolts. BMW has changed the rear bolts to have a shaft so the thread does not go all the way to the back. This is good, since the shaft is 0.1mm thicker than the thread, thereby decreasing play.
Since BMW did not do this to the front bolt, I source it elsewhere to have a shaft. Just make sure it has a 10.9 material rating and is galvanized.




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I *think* that bits 1 and 2 of K_LA_FREIGABE could be cleared (e.g. set K_LA_FREIGABE to 0xF9 instead of the default which is 0xFF) to prevent the switch on conditions from being met. This is documented in the funktionsrahmen (which I appreciate is not always accurate, however checking the disassembly it does appear that that is what those two bits do). Note that there is also a reference to being able to turn the lambda controller off via DS2 - so there is possibly also a way to do this via DIS or similar?Originally posted by Slideways View Post
There might be a way to keep the DME in open loop where it will not reference the pre-cat sensors.
Disclaimer that no one should be messing with this unless they are confident that they know what they are doing!
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Reassembly after a lengthy refresh of my TC Kline DA Coilovers. Wire wheeled the struts clean with a paint job, new bump stops, spherical bearings and a used set of TC Kline Camber plates. Tossed the springs into the ultrasonic cleaner too. Drastic before and after photos!
3 Photos
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There might be a way to keep the DME in open loop where it will not reference the pre-cat sensors. Then, a wide band sensor or two can be put in their place temporarily for tuning. The data from the wide band sensor needs to be read with separate software or an AFR gauge. This DME does not support wide band sensors.Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post
Thanks - answers my questions. These are CSL headers so just one bung in each, but more curious as to what happens when I need to get Hassan to “enhance” the CSL DME. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.
David
Most dynos stick a wide band sensor in the muffler to get AFR data. It is not as accurate as having it right after the collector.Last edited by Slideways; 04-09-2025, 08:59 PM.
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