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Failed vanos test post Beisan
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Originally posted by heinzboehmer View PostWeight changes and redrilled holes should not affect the pumping mechanism. As far as I understand, oil is pulled into the pistons as those come out of the bores and when those get compressed (the disk is off center so as it spins the pistons get pushed in) high pressure oil is shot out of the pump. Weight will affect moment of inertia, but the disk is solidly coupled to the exhaust cam. So even though holes will (very slightly) decrease the rotational inertia of the engine internals, the speed of the disk is still directly controlled by the cam speed.
The only thing that would affect pumping is what mau has pointed out. Smaller/bigger piston bores and different geometry in the veins that connect the cylinders to the pump output will definitely affect the volume of fluid that can be pumped with each revolution.
In fact, a lighter disc would be better by reducing axial load on the pump shaft, and since the holes are in a regular patter, in fact with two new holes it will be more balanced.Last edited by maupineda; 03-05-2021, 03:20 PM.
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Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
I had no frame of reference what was good response times when I did that original vanos test.
I simply did a full vanos rebuild because I wanted to take care of the hub tab failure issue and did the rest while I was in there kind of attitude.
Now I'll be in there again and again.
I got concerned too about that having a disc of unknow material spec (type of steel, treatment, hardening, etc, etc, etc) and what could do to the rest of the unit that I just bought a spare off of a low miler. jump to ebay and get one, rebuild it, and then swapt it when you feel like. you will learn that the car, as is, will drive fine.
The images above are from my spare unit with 35k miles, but really, even units with 60-70k miles will be good as new as long as they are not all varnished which would indicate pool oil change schedule. this pumps are like crank/rod bearings, they would last long, more so this as it is just a pump with relative low force loads as all racers are oiled. So they will last fore ever. to give you peace of mind, unless the disc is way off, your unit will be fine and an OE disc should be all you need.
to measure something like this you need special micrometer that can measure bores and diameter, ideally a CMM. but since most of us don't have access to it, sourcing an OE disc would be solution, but first measure your pressure to confirm your slow response times are related to low pressure pump.
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Moral of the story here. Replace the poorly engineered part, the exhaust hub. The hub doesn't affect oil pressure or any real timing, unless it breaks. Yeah the spring sits in it but no big deal. I got a VAC hub and never touched my pump disk(except removal and install, it also saw some brakleen because that stuff is essential, I may have also dropped it once or twice).
In all seriousness, it seems like we are taking much less risk when getting a hub over doing a pump disk. While it is good to save money where possible, our pump disks are not faulty. The holes were machined larger and the steel on the hub is what breaks. There are multiple ways to skin a cat. The hub is the way that carries the least risk. My hub came with thicker and larger tabs. The shape of them is also much more structurally sound. I personally don't like the idea of reusing a fatigued exhaust hub. Hardened steel isn't very resilient when it's stressed to its limit.This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal
"Do it right once or do it twice"
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Originally posted by Arith2 View PostMoral of the story here. Replace the poorly engineered part, the exhaust hub. The hub doesn't affect oil pressure or any real timing, unless it breaks. Yeah the spring sits in it but no big deal. I got a VAC hub and never touched my pump disk(except removal and install, it also saw some brakleen because that stuff is essential, I may have also dropped it once or twice).
In all seriousness, it seems like we are taking much less risk when getting a hub over doing a pump disk. While it is good to save money where possible, our pump disks are not faulty. The holes were machined larger and the steel on the hub is what breaks. There are multiple ways to skin a cat. The hub is the way that carries the least risk. My hub came with thicker and larger tabs. The shape of them is also much more structurally sound. I personally don't like the idea of reusing a fatigued exhaust hub. Hardened steel isn't very resilient when it's stressed to its limit.
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I got blocked by several facebook users for arguing that the Beisan 2 hole disc was not OEM. Raj claims that the original manufacturer of the disc makes his. And my argument is it doesnt matter who makes the disc, it is Raj’s design and he needs to take responsibility for it.
I haven’t had this issue as both of my pump discs have had four holes. But the experience of some users, specifically around the four small pistons, is cause for concern and Raj may need to start making the pistons to match the pump disc instead of reusing those from the OE disc as the tolerances seem to be inconsistent.
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Originally posted by eacmen View PostI haven’t had this issue as both of my pump discs have had four holes. But the experience of some users, specifically around the four small pistons, is cause for concern and Raj may need to start making the pistons to match the pump disc instead of reusing those from the OE disc as the tolerances seem to be inconsistent.
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Originally posted by Arith2 View PostReplace the poorly engineered part, the exhaust hub.
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I just hope I am not damaging my disc pistons in a tighter fit environment so when I switch to a re-drilled OE disc they are now too loose. Not to mention the springs might be getting messed up.
I feel like I need an OE disc right away and don't want to run this product in my car, but I may be getting carried away here.
I know you can't just buy the pistons/springs on their own.
If anyone has a re-drilled disc I'd be interested.2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
Instagram
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Originally posted by Cubieman View PostI know you can't just buy the pistons/springs on their own.
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As someone about to install a 2 hole "new" disc, this concerns me a bit and the clock is ticking if I want my core charge back - I wasn't expecting a newly made part. Ugh. Thought I was doing the right thing sorting the VANOS (throws a code every week or two)... Now have $1k of parts to decide what I'm going to do...
Are these differences in the oil piston holes measurable with regular tools i.e. a quality digital caliper with 0.01mm precision?
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Originally posted by Shonky View PostAs someone about to install a 2 hole "new" disc, this concerns me a bit and the clock is ticking if I want my core charge back - I wasn't expecting a newly made part. Ugh. Thought I was doing the right thing sorting the VANOS (throws a code every week or two)... Now have $1k of parts to decide what I'm going to do...
Are these differences in the oil piston holes measurable with regular tools i.e. a quality digital caliper with 0.01mm precision?
send back the disc for a refund, and have a machine shop drill you new holes, or use the refund and get a new hub and leave the disc alone
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Guys here is two BMW OEM discs that have two different sizes now think about swapping them from one VANOS to other will they perfect match with the shaft holes the answer is NO they will never!!!
So donor disc is BAD very BAD Idea for your VANOS.
I drilled my original disc by myself - https://youtu.be/cFZ3W5BS_R8
4 Photos
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Fuck, I sure hope this doesn't end with me having to buy a brand new vanos to make it right.2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
Instagram
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