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e46 M3 suspension setup, or how to not downgrade your car with suspension mods

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    Originally posted by r4dr View Post
    I was surprised he mentioned KW as a quality option. Maybe it's because he deals with V3 and above, but the V2s that came on my car were crap and that's the general review I've heard of them.
    I checked out a KW V3 brand new out of the box. As I mentioned in another thread I made, they are a good length in order to run stock height or lowered without running on bump stops. The spring rates are a good balance of street/performance driving. They have a wide adjustment range and can develop lots of compression force. The bodies are stainless steel and will never rust which is pretty neat.

    On the flipside, while the front struts were nearly identical, the two rears were significantly different indicating a manufacturing or design issue. That was a bit disappointing because they are otherwise good. For example they should be run 3-4 clicks different in order to produce the same force.

    I wouldn't go for V2's because they are more like a traditional twin-tube (like Konis) and have no compression adjustment. The V3 has a pressurized gas reservoir front and rear.

    My general impression is that they're a good middleground setup for $2k. Certainly a step-up from the entry level sub-$1k options, but not at the level of Clubsport/MCS/JRZ but those are double the price.

    Also, I have heard KW rebuild cost is high, so unless you're the original owner it might not be the best option. They have a lifetime warranty for the original owner.

    Comment


      My understanding is the V3 and Clubsport kits are on their own tier of quality from the V1/V2 which are "entry-level."

      Either way, I was thinking about posting the details behind my flatride MCS 1WNR setup at some point. A few things were trial and error, but the setup is dialed now and they are fantastic. I figured someone might make use of the info, but just have to find the time to write it all out...
      '03.5 M3 SMG Coupe - Jet Black / Black

      Comment


        Please do. As a fellow MCS 1wnr owner, I'd like to see what spring rates and damper settings you're using.
        DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
        /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
        More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

        Comment


          Found this motoiq YouTube video from a couple years ago where they toured Ohlins USA facility. Found it very interesting and informative:

          Just a few weeks before Covid shut everything down we got a chance to tour the Ohlins USA facility in Hendersonville, North Carolina. Join us as we check ou...

          Comment


            Öhlins is legit. I'm starting to think they're head-and-shoulders above even other high-end brands.

            Tangential: Heard a story about someone who upgraded from regular DFV dampers to TTX. On his first track day he thought his ABS had crapped out because it wasn't kicking in. Turns out he just had that much more traction. Apparently TTX is that much better at damping very small motions. Blows my mind.
            2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
            Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

            2012 Mazda5 6MT
            Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

            Comment


              Originally posted by eacmen View Post
              Found this motoiq YouTube video from a couple years ago where they toured Ohlins USA facility. Found it very interesting and informative:

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwT4uXu7P7g
              That's the other one I watched - awesome video!

              Ohlins is good stuff. You pay for it, but it's good quality. The TTX and DFV are in two completely different classes (and price points).

              Comment


                Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                Öhlins is legit. I'm starting to think they're head-and-shoulders above even other high-end brands.

                Tangential: Heard a story about someone who upgraded from regular DFV dampers to TTX. On his first track day he thought his ABS had crapped out because it wasn't kicking in. Turns out he just had that much more traction. Apparently TTX is that much better at damping very small motions. Blows my mind.
                I have the R&T kit on my car right now. Plan to swap some JRZ RS2 from the old car over the winter to see the difference.

                I had one day on the RS2 before I wrecked. But the laps I did do felt awesome.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                  Does anyone know how long before rebuild is needed for DFV?

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
                    Does anyone know how long before rebuild is needed for DFV?
                    37k miles street use which seems like a conservative estimate. My buddy put 40k miles on his before selling the car. Depending on your roads, it might be possible to run them almost as long as the stock rear dampers which usually give up at 75k miles. For some owners, that would be 7+ years before needing a rebuild.

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                      37k miles street use which seems like a conservative estimate. My buddy put 40k miles on his before selling the car. Depending on your roads, it might be possible to run them almost as long as the stock rear dampers which usually give up at 75k miles. For some owners, that would be 7+ years before needing a rebuild.
                      Thank you. I guess I will be going with the PSS10s with TMS camber plates.

                      Comment


                        I have almost 40k miles on my R&Ts, much of which was on very bad roads, and they’re fine. Can’t say how they compare to new but I’m in no hurry to have them rebuilt or anything.
                        2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                        Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                        2012 Mazda5 6MT
                        Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                          I have almost 40k miles on my R&Ts, much of which was on very bad roads, and they’re fine. Can’t say how they compare to new but I’m in no hurry to have them rebuilt or anything.
                          I asked Barry at 3DM how much he would charge to rebuild mine. He, who has nothing but money to gain from doing the rebuild, said there was no point in doing it till 100,000 miles.

                          2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
                          2012 LMB/Black 128i
                          2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post
                            Does anyone know how long before rebuild is needed for DFV?
                            I have 65k miles on my Ohlins RnT on my E90 335d which is a 3700 lb car and they still perform extremely well, but will be revalving soon as I can really feel the wear on highways and difference in wear especially. One of them is slightly bent from bumping into a curb but still works fine.

                            They do provide a traction boost for sure, even with almost 600 wtq the car has predictable cornering with heavy throttle at high speeds. I originally had them on my 3200 lb E92 335i which was about 500 whp and noticed a big difference in traction and control vs the previous Bilstein B4s the car had. For a street car they are really badass, comfortable dampers even with stiff sidewalled sticky tires.
                            Last edited by EthanolTurbo; 09-19-2022, 03:40 PM.
                            Instagram: @logicalconclusion

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by EthanolTurbo View Post

                              I have 65k miles on my Ohlins RnT on my E90 335d which is a 3700 lb car and they still perform extremely well, but will be revalving soon as I can really feel the wear on highways and difference in wear especially. One of them is slightly bent from bumping into a curb but still works fine.

                              They do provide a traction boost for sure, even with almost 600 wtq the car has predictable cornering with heavy throttle at high speeds. I originally had them on my 3200 lb E92 335i which was about 500 whp and noticed a big difference in traction and control vs the previous Bilstein B4s the car had. For a street car they are really badass, comfortable dampers even with stiff sidewalled sticky tires.
                              Ive always been curious with the DFV. Thanks for the reference points. Also, you really did some weight reduction with that 335i! Bet that was FUN at that power:weight.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Slideways View Post

                                37k miles street use which seems like a conservative estimate. My buddy put 40k miles on his before selling the car. Depending on your roads, it might be possible to run them almost as long as the stock rear dampers which usually give up at 75k miles. For some owners, that would be 7+ years before needing a rebuild.
                                Thats great! Thanks for chiming in with your experience.

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