e46 M3 suspension setup, or how to not downgrade your car with suspension mods

[Tbonem3]

It was the M4 GTS fitted with KWCS 3-way from the factory.

Has there been a lot of hate with KW products? I wanted KW's for the E46 but I was told the ST's are KW's, just doesn't have the anti-corrosive coating on the shock body. I naturally went with ST's, otherwise it was going to be KW2's. Can someone confirm that ST XTA's are basically KW2's?

STs are KW1s iirc.

[SQ13]

mrgizmo04 lvm3sm46 What front spring rates and lengths did y’all end up with for the R&T kit, and what ride height was achieved?

I’m ordering a TrackDay kit from 3DM, and Barry recommended 7” 336 lb/in Swift springs when I mentioned that I want the front rate to be around 350 with stock 630 rear. However, it looks like I won’t be able to get the car high enough (13.5”) if I go with that spring? FWIW, I’ll be trying the kit with Ohlins/Vorshlag camber plates.

If the car is too low, I could add a helper spring to get me to my desired ride height, and Barry suggested this as well. Hyperco sells 2.5” helpers with a solid height of 0.44” and 0.70”, and Ohlins (Swift?) sells a 65mm helper with a solid height of 0.63”. Plus the thickness of the adapter/spring guide. Even if the lower spring perch isn’t near the top, I don’t think I’ll have clearance issues with 18x9.5 ET35 ARC-8s, since I run a 10mm spacer to clear the 996 calipers?

[cornerbalanced]

The KW Motorsports and KW consumer (V1, V2) products seem to be different. KW Motorsports stuff in Europe is the real deal, and a lot of people from Manthey to BMW customer racing run their dampers. Emotion Engineering is the only one I'm aware of in the US that works with KW Motorsports products.

In the states you can order KW Motorsports through KW themselves. You simply have to fill out an order form, denoting monotube/twintube, inverse strut, spring rates, external reservoirs, reservoir line sizing…virtually every aspect of the damper is customizable. Hope to see more people take advantage of this program! Pricing is on par with JRZ/MCS.

[r4dr]

In the states you can order KW Motorsports through KW themselves. You simply have to fill out an order form, denoting monotube/twintube, inverse strut, spring rates, external reservoirs, reservoir line sizing…virtually every aspect of the damper is customizable. Hope to see more people take advantage of this program! Pricing is on par with JRZ/MCS.

That’s good to know because I had no idea. Then the next step is finding shops that support it… because I definitely don’t know the ins and outs of fiddling with knobs.

[Nate047]

That’s good to know because I had no idea. Then the next step is finding shops that support it… because I definitely don’t know the ins and outs of fiddling with knobs.

Thing is there's no real harm in just tinkering. You can always set them back to full soft and start again if you end up hating life. Shops will each have their own preferred brands, and won't always be objective about why ($$$) so just keep that in mind. The basics of damper tuning are the same on any brand.

[Cronenberged]

Thing is there's no real harm in just tinkering. You can always set them back to full soft and start again if you end up hating life. Shops will each have their own preferred brands, and won't always be objective about why ($$$) so just keep that in mind. The basics of damper tuning are the same on any brand.

This is true, all this started with FCM and they only work on monotube non adjustable Bilsteins.

[lvm3sm46]

SQ13sorry for the late response. I needed the Spacers from Barry to get the correct ride height. Same spring and rate as you. I was running the Turner Hybrid camber plates.

[fattycharged]

The KW Motorsports and KW consumer (V1, V2) products seem to be different. KW Motorsports stuff in Europe is the real deal, and a lot of people from Manthey to BMW customer racing run their dampers. Emotion Engineering is the only one I'm aware of in the US that works with KW Motorsports products.

my consumer V3's just went in for a rebuild last week and I just got the call today that they don't want to rebuild them as they're slammed with race builds for the start of season, instead they're sending a new dampers from Germany.

I never felt the V3's were stiff, always thought they were extremely compliant even on Houston streets.

To SQ13's chagrin, I may just run them with some linear springs and see how they do 😘


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[SQ13]

my consumer V3's just went in for a rebuild last week and I just got the call today that they don't want to rebuild them as they're slammed with race builds for the start of season, instead they're sending a new dampers from Germany.

I never felt the V3's were stiff, always thought they were extremely compliant even on Houston streets.

To SQ13's chagrin, I may just run them with some linear springs and see how they do 😘


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I mean it’s your car, not mine, so what you do to it doesn’t affect me in any way. My point was that you’re probably better off doing things right the first time instead of fucking with things, which is the route I’m going with (i.e. getting a ready to install high quality coilover kit, catted sec 1 instead of welding cats into a catless sec 1, etc).

[fattycharged]

What can I say, I'm a glutton for punishment…


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[r4dr]

my consumer V3's just went in for a rebuild last week and I just got the call today that they don't want to rebuild them as they're slammed with race builds for the start of season, instead they're sending a new dampers from Germany.

I never felt the V3's were stiff, always thought they were extremely compliant even on Houston streets.

To SQ13's chagrin, I may just run them with some linear springs and see how they do 😘


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I've heard good things about running proper linear springs with the V3s. The impression I got was that the V1/V2 is not worth messing around with, but the V3s are competent in the damping department.

I don't remember the spring rates that the people were using, but I'm sure you can find it via Google. It was Harold @ HPA who was talking about this.

[kaiv]

Hey guys,

I have a car that I got pre-modded that I'd like to dial in more to my liking.

As is the handling is a bit interesting to say the least. The rear end has almost incredible traction and tractability out of a turn however the front end gives up much too early. It's not balanced. The car is also much too low.

What I want/like: a strong front end and oversteer tendencies if I overcook it. Not sure if that qualifies as neutral-ish.


Hardware:

JRZ RS One
Swift springs 100F (+ helper) / 120R (+ tender rate unknown)
H&R sway bars (F soft, R stiff)
GC adjustable end links

Rates translate to ~558lb and ~670lb

Would dropping the front spring to 6kg (~335lb) be a good move?

[K-Dawg]

Would dropping the front spring to 6kg (~335lb) be a good move?

I think so. I'm not too familiar with the JRZs, but bump stops are stiff springs, so if you're on the bump stops, your front spring rate is effectively higher and will contribute to understeer.

Maybe you also have something else going on like worn components, bad alignment or crap tires.

[Cronenberged]

kaiv yes dropping the front rate and doing stiff front and soft rear sway bars.

[zzyzx85]

I'm going to have my JRZ RS Ones sent out for rebuilding as well so this has crossed my mind. Currently 450lb/550lb. per the calculator, i should be going to 300lb front if i leave it at 550 rear. There's a likely need to change spring lengths as well, right?