Engine Cycle Suggestions - Emissions Rejected

[turbosig]

Anyone know the exact procedure for the Engine Cycle to get the Cat and O2 sensors in the "passed" or "ready" during an emissions test? 2004 M3, the car is a garage queen and during COVID I had the GM5 out and sent to Scott for repair/diag of failing actuator or door locks. Anyways, the car was sitting without battery for a week or two while waiting to get it back and reinstalled - which I am assuming is what reset the cycling.

I barely drive the car and today decided to get it inspected as it was overdue. Lo and behold everything else passed except the "Cat" and the "O2 sensor". I am in NJ and the car came with me from CA which has even stricter emissions test than NJ. I have never had an issue before, and the NJ MVC (DMV) said that I just need the engine to go through a cycle or two. They gave me some pamphlet about how to do it, but I figure I ask the experts here. From what I've read online some people have just driven the car 100 miles while others have done the lengthy process of cold start, than 20-30MPH and then 50-50 under 3K RPM, etc...

Is there any one way to get the engine to cycle? I even came home and plugged my OBDII reader in and it said the same thing Cat was "INC" and O2 was "INC" too.

Thanks in advance!

[jbfrancis3]

Yes its simply the battery being disconnected that caused it. I understand it to be approx 100 miles like you mention

[Estoril]

I used this. It worked. Done and drove right to the emissions stations and success. Choose the right "not crowded" road that you don't have to brake, speed up to merge or otherwise fall outside the limits.


"The drive cycle consists of four tests. Each test can be done independent of the other tests. It does not matter what order you complete the tests in. Only one of the tests requires a cold start, the other three do not.

To solve your problem, you need to complete the third test shown in the graphic. You do this through the following process:

1) Fix all transmission and engine light faults before emissions testing and completing drive cycle tests. Before you perform the test, I strongly suggest you download the app called "Torque" on your phone and turn on the emissions control screen. This screen lets you know what tests you have completed in real time. In this case, you'll be looking at the Catalytic Converter test. You'll need a $10 blu-tooth OBD connector to connect the car to the phone. This step is optional, but you'll see why it is helpful in later steps.

2) Start your car and go directly to the freeway. DO NOT exceed 3000 rpm, DO NOT make sudden or large accelerations/decelerations, and DO NOT exceed 60 mph on your way to the freeway. Doing any of these will stop the test immediately and the test won't restart unless you restart your car. For these reasons, you'll want to get onto the freeway at night, preferably after midnight when traffic is the lowest. For me personally, I absolutely HAD to get my emissions test completed within a narrow time frame. To ensure I was successful, I did this test at 3AM when there is ZERO traffic.

3) Once on the freeway, SLOWLY accelerate to 55 mph and set the cruise control at 55mph. Just chill in the slow lane for 20 minutes (just to be conservative) and let the computer run its tests. As long as you stay in the slow lane, you're golden. If someone tailgates you, just stay where you are. You're in the slowest lane, they can go around.

4) Once 20 minutes has passed, get off the freeway. Open the Torque app and confirm the drive test is complete.


5) DO NOT do any work on your car until you get the emissions test done. DO NOT disconnect the battery. DO NOT run any diagnostic or performance software plugged in via the OBD port. DO NOT make software modifications. DO NOT clear any codes from the car at all. Wait until you've completed emissions testing to do any of these because the emissions test results get wiped from the ECU when you do them. If you wipe the results, you gotta perform the test again.

The test is easier than you think and works like a charm. That said, BMW engineers are retarded for requiring the test to be performed between 40 and 60 mph for 15 minutes. Essentially all American freeways are 65mph, so its hard to do the test during routine traffic without pissing off other drivers or getting stopped in rush hour. Stopping ceases the test. Two-lane undivided highways pose their own problems for the tests because some turns may force you to slow down beyond the bounds of the test (slower than 40mph) and hitting a stop sign ensures you have to start over. Secondly, for those of us with M3's, we almost always exceed 3000 rpm in first gear (and often in 2nd and 3rd too), we like going faster than 60mph, and we like sudden accelerations. My last point is EXACTLY why so many of us end of with cars not ready for emissions after we've worked on our car and cleared codes."

[mrgizmo04]

Unlike popular belief, disconnecting the battery does not reset the monitors. Clearing codes, swapping sensors, clearing adaptations, getting and having stored faults, does. You can plug things into obd port and run scans, that's how you check that the monitors are set so you are not surprised at the testing center.

You need to also understand what happens during the "drive cycle". Like if your SAP or EVAP are not set, you do not need to drive the car, because those specific monitors are only tested and set during a cold start. If your o2 are not set, you don't need to idle the car from cold start for 5 minutes, because o2 monitors are only tested and set during a constant speed drive on the highway. You CAN stop at stop signs and red light on the way to an open road/highway (again unlike popular belief). You can accelerate/decelerate, etc, just the o2 test starts once you are at constant speed. RPM and MPH limits are true. The "run all red lights" on the way to highway are not.

I think people bend over backwards a bit too much following those strict rules when they dont need to. Isolate what you need to set, understand what condition is required to be met for it to set, and follow it.

The 20min cruise around thing...depends. If your hardware is in good condition (fresh sensors etc), it can set a lot quicker. I had my obd2 plugged in during the drive, running a scan via obd fusion app, and my o2 monitors set within 3 mins, so I got off the highway, no need to keep driving for 20mins.

I just did all this for my CA smog test, I recorded videos to post on youtube explaining things, but I have no time to edit at the moment.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jbfrancis3]

You're right its not a simple battery disconnect but it IS simply a battery disconnect for an extended period of time (several weeks). I've experienced this more than 3 times on E46 and E53 chassis. Happy to proven wrong if there's a credible source referenced.

[mrgizmo04]

You're right its not a simple battery disconnect but it IS simply a battery disconnect for an extended period of time (several weeks). I've experienced this more than 3 times on E46 and E53 chassis. Happy to proven wrong if there's a credible source referenced.

I disconnected for a day to test the theory that everyone keeps saying do not disconnect the battery (which you should do to work on electrical things, swapping sensors, coils, etc).

So I have that as a data point.

I don't know if leaving the battery off for weeks would drain the memory (but sounds like it might).

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[turbosig]

I used this. It worked. Done and drove right to the emissions stations and success. Choose the right "not crowded" road that you don't have to brake, speed up to merge or otherwise fall outside the limits.


"The drive cycle consists of four tests. Each test can be done independent of the other tests. It does not matter what order you complete the tests in. Only one of the tests requires a cold start, the other three do not.

To solve your problem, you need to complete the third test shown in the graphic. You do this through the following process:

1) Fix all transmission and engine light faults before emissions testing and completing drive cycle tests. Before you perform the test, I strongly suggest you download the app called "Torque" on your phone and turn on the emissions control screen. This screen lets you know what tests you have completed in real time. In this case, you'll be looking at the Catalytic Converter test. You'll need a $10 blu-tooth OBD connector to connect the car to the phone. This step is optional, but you'll see why it is helpful in later steps.

2) Start your car and go directly to the freeway. DO NOT exceed 3000 rpm, DO NOT make sudden or large accelerations/decelerations, and DO NOT exceed 60 mph on your way to the freeway. Doing any of these will stop the test immediately and the test won't restart unless you restart your car. For these reasons, you'll want to get onto the freeway at night, preferably after midnight when traffic is the lowest. For me personally, I absolutely HAD to get my emissions test completed within a narrow time frame. To ensure I was successful, I did this test at 3AM when there is ZERO traffic.

3) Once on the freeway, SLOWLY accelerate to 55 mph and set the cruise control at 55mph. Just chill in the slow lane for 20 minutes (just to be conservative) and let the computer run its tests. As long as you stay in the slow lane, you're golden. If someone tailgates you, just stay where you are. You're in the slowest lane, they can go around.

4) Once 20 minutes has passed, get off the freeway. Open the Torque app and confirm the drive test is complete.


5) DO NOT do any work on your car until you get the emissions test done. DO NOT disconnect the battery. DO NOT run any diagnostic or performance software plugged in via the OBD port. DO NOT make software modifications. DO NOT clear any codes from the car at all. Wait until you've completed emissions testing to do any of these because the emissions test results get wiped from the ECU when you do them. If you wipe the results, you gotta perform the test again.

The test is easier than you think and works like a charm. That said, BMW engineers are retarded for requiring the test to be performed between 40 and 60 mph for 15 minutes. Essentially all American freeways are 65mph, so its hard to do the test during routine traffic without pissing off other drivers or getting stopped in rush hour. Stopping ceases the test. Two-lane undivided highways pose their own problems for the tests because some turns may force you to slow down beyond the bounds of the test (slower than 40mph) and hitting a stop sign ensures you have to start over. Secondly, for those of us with M3's, we almost always exceed 3000 rpm in first gear (and often in 2nd and 3rd too), we like going faster than 60mph, and we like sudden accelerations. My last point is EXACTLY why so many of us end of with cars not ready for emissions after we've worked on our car and cleared codes."

Appreciate this response. I think I will have to do step 3 at night. No way I can get to a freeway and drive like that here in NJ. LOL Also I do have a normal non-bluetooth OBD2 reader (cabled) and I will just have that plugged in as I go. Thank you for the information!

[turbosig]

I disconnected for a day to test the theory that everyone keeps saying do not disconnect the battery (which you should do to work on electrical things, swapping sensors, coils, etc).

So I have that as a data point.

I don't know if leaving the battery off for weeks would drain the memory (but sounds like it might).

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I think having the battery disconnect as long as I did screwed it up. I usually always have the car on a tender, but when removing the GM5 and waiting for it to reinstall this had to be the time where it "reset" itself.

[WOLFN8TR]

The above methods worked for me to get the "Cats" and the "O2 sensors" to read ready. Just make sure to maintain under 60 mph for 20 minutes. Luckily I live out in the desert where we have long stretches of roads with little traffic.

[sapote]

I think having the battery disconnect as long as I did screwed it up. I usually always have the car on a tender, but when removing the GM5 and waiting for it to reinstall this had to be the time where it "reset" itself.

I disconnected the battery many times -- some periods longer than couple months. I had smog check 2 months ago with no issue after I connected it back and drove to work then got off work early and to the shop, total 40 miles round trip.

[turbosig]

Hi guys,
I got everything but the "Cat" to clear. I did the 50-60mph under 3K RPM two times both 18-20 min trips. Still cant get the Cat too clear. Anyone have any idea if the codes it read could effect the Cat from clearing? I am about to order a new post cat O2 sensor, but don't know if I am missing something?

[marksae]

turbosig, are you on factory or euro headers? My car is in the same boat as yours. After I installed euro headers and cats, my catalyst monitor will never clear. My car does have 168k miles on it and I think they're the original o2 sensors. So I'm thinking about replacing both pre-cat sensors, as those tend to wear out a lot faster than the post-cat ones because they're exposed to a lot more heat.

[Tbonem3]

1. Pre cat o2s are most important for performance

2. Passing the cat tests is post cat o2

Change them at around 100k

turbosig - was your problem gm5 or physical actuator?

[turbosig]

turbosig, are you on factory or euro headers? My car is in the same boat as yours. After I installed euro headers and cats, my catalyst monitor will never clear. My car does have 168k miles on it and I think they're the original o2 sensors. So I'm thinking about replacing both pre-cat sensors, as those tend to wear out a lot faster than the post-cat ones because they're exposed to a lot more heat.

Factory headers with about 98K. Car is bone stock. I too was thinking the first 2 pre cats, but I think I will swap all four sensors since the subframe will be off anyway. I don't want to drop it again if I replace 2 out of 4 and wind up having to do all 4.

[turbosig]

1. Pre cat o2s are most important for performance

2. Passing the cat tests is post cat o2

Change them at around 100k

turbosig - was your problem gm5 or physical actuator?

You're the second person that said its generally the Post Cat sensors for Cat readiness. I think they are the original O2 sensors, so might as well swap all 4.

At first my passenger door wouldn't unlock, just lock and you couldn't open the door from the outside. I replaced the actuator with brand new OEM and that didn't solve. I sent my GM5 to Scott and in his diagnosis, it wasnt the GM5, everything was operating, so he replaced my door lock relays on the GM5 and it worked. So it must've been the door lock relays. You having the same issue?

I attached my O2 logs to see if anyone can help me narrow down which sensors are acting up?