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I did it with the pan empty. I feel the shavings would float around in the oil and be spread out as the oil drains making it harder to clean up.
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great, did you do it with oil in the pan or oil pan drained initially? i already drained my pan months ago in anticipation of this but have seen some people say do it with oil in the pan to catch shavings and drain oil out or that it didnt matter.Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostIt was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.
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It was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.
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i have a copy of the max psi instruction book and they have awesome pictures showing the place you drill and tap as well as pictures with the large circle pan cover on the bottom removed showing that you can see the hole you just drilled.Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostI drilled and tapped it on the car 5 years ago and haven’t had an issue. If you want to take the pan off for peace of mind it probably would be a good time to do rod bearings if they’re almost due.
when you did it did you find it relatively easy with that large circle plate removed and being able to get into the pan to clean it out?
my rod bearing were done about 5k miles ago so i dont need to pull the pan for that thankfully lol.
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I drilled and tapped it on the car 5 years ago and haven’t had an issue. If you want to take the pan off for peace of mind it probably would be a good time to do rod bearings if they’re almost due.
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Max psi inatalled the entire kit so not sure.Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
when you installed your kit, did you dril and tap your oil pan with the pan on the car or did you remove the pan? i know the max psi kit comes with detailed instructions that show tapping on the car.... i still have to do this part but scared to death with metal shavings.....
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when you installed your kit, did you dril and tap your oil pan with the pan on the car or did you remove the pan? i know the max psi kit comes with detailed instructions that show tapping on the car.... i still have to do this part but scared to death with metal shavings.....
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Finally got some of the last bits back from welding. This was more involved than I initially thought.
Turbine housing modified to accept wastaste dump tube to tial mvr 44mm gate and plumbed back into turbo down pipe merge collector to keep things as quiet as possible.
Cold side charge pipe welded up from intercooler to intake manifold with tial 50mm bov and pmas hpx maf sensor
Intake manifold modified to close up factory installed bov flange since bov was relocated to charge piping.
Compressor housing modified with aluminum elbow and piping to get turbo outlet to shoot across the back of the block and back down by the by the AC compressor to keep intercooler piping cleared from ground.14 Photos
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My dad has a 1988 e24 635csi that we’ll soon be working on turboing. The m30 is a work horseOriginally posted by mleveroni View PostBeen a while since I've been on. Finally got all the parts for the motor. Took a quick look to admire the interesting bits then dropped them off at the machine shop. Right down the street from the machine shop was an E34 535i, so I ended up taking home a little project. I put my CSL wheels on it and even with its 3.4L motor, it can't spin the tires in the rain. Definitely could use a turbo.
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Been a while since I've been on. Finally got all the parts for the motor. Took a quick look to admire the interesting bits then dropped them off at the machine shop. Right down the street from the machine shop was an E34 535i, so I ended up taking home a little project. I put my CSL wheels on it and even with its 3.4L motor, it can't spin the tires in the rain. Definitely could use a turbo.
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EDIT: Added dyno graph
running low boost on stock motor as its a daily driver right now
precision 6266 .81 a/r
doc race exhaust manifold
saad racing intake manifold
hpf 3" intercooler
hpf oil sump pump
saad racing pcv catch can
aem 3 port
tial 44mm wastegate
tial 50mm bov
fic 1000cc injectors
single walbro450
pro 128 piggyback
Last edited by Randerson; 08-29-2020, 04:07 PM.
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If you can get some vids!Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostThere is a way with the eboost2, I think you install a button and wire it to the controller. Unfortunately it's not as fancy as the infinity. Now that it's running 22psi, I'd bet I can break my 104 mph trap speed. It's tough though because that's the shift point for 3 to 4 right before the finish line. I'm torn between drag racing Friday night or waiting until Sunday for the roll racing. There's always a lot of high power street cars at the roll races they run a couple times a year.
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There is a way with the eboost2, I think you install a button and wire it to the controller. Unfortunately it's not as fancy as the infinity. Now that it's running 22psi, I'd bet I can break my 104 mph trap speed. It's tough though because that's the shift point for 3 to 4 right before the finish line. I'm torn between drag racing Friday night or waiting until Sunday for the roll racing. There's always a lot of high power street cars at the roll races they run a couple times a year.
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