I ordered a set of these:
https://www.seemslegitgarage.com/pro...d-stub-upgrade
They are great axles but maybe a warning would have been nice. The bolts on the cv joint by the wheel don't clear the upper control arm when the suspension is loaded. I contacted the company and it's normal and they need to "self clearance" 😂. So after some terrible noises especially going over bumps, they have cut a groove into my upper control arms and are no longer making noise...They appear to be very strong axles though. Other than the clearance problem, I have no complaints.
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Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostThe new axles arrived just barely in time for the last roll race of the season. It made for a good time and the car ran strong. A guy I know sold his GTR and picked up a beautiful c6 Z06. He took a little convincing because he’s raced me in the past but was kind enough to give me a good baseline run to start the day.
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The new axles arrived just barely in time for the last roll race of the season. It made for a good time and the car ran strong. A guy I know sold his GTR and picked up a beautiful c6 Z06. He took a little convincing because he’s raced me in the past but was kind enough to give me a good baseline run to start the day.
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Mine has been in there for 5 years now and hasn't had a problem. The pipe dope has worked well for me.
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Originally posted by Dtmpowerjc View Post
It’s a thing, the stuff plumbers use.
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Originally posted by Dtmpowerjc View Post
It’s a thing, the stuff plumbers use.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
Finally got it done. Need to decide on a sealant though.
Maximum PSI install guide just says to coat the thread with "pipe dope" not sure what that is. What did you use?
Could I use jb weld on the threads and then thread the fitting and let it cure?
What did you use?
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Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostIt’s been a long time but I don’t think you can go wrong with a pilot hole to start with.
Maximum PSI install guide just says to coat the thread with "pipe dope" not sure what that is. What did you use?
Could I use jb weld on the threads and then thread the fitting and let it cure?
What did you use?
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Everyone has their own opinion how to do it. I put the cheapest Walmart 10w40 I could find in it. It was changed at 50 and 500 miles. I’ll go back to the twin power 10w60 I get from fcpeuro in the next few days.
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Finally putting everything together. What break in procedure is recommended? I was thinking 10-60 for the first startup just to flush out all the assembly lube, then ams breakin oil for around 100 miles, then 10-60 with a zinc additive for around 500 miles. All the bearing clearances are stock.
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It’s been a long time but I don’t think you can go wrong with a pilot hole to start with.
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Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostI did it with the pan empty. I feel the shavings would float around in the oil and be spread out as the oil drains making it harder to clean up.
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I did it with the pan empty. I feel the shavings would float around in the oil and be spread out as the oil drains making it harder to clean up.
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Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostIt was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.
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It was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.
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