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  • Mspir3d
    replied
    I ordered a set of these:
    https://www.seemslegitgarage.com/pro...d-stub-upgrade

    They are great axles but maybe a warning would have been nice. The bolts on the cv joint by the wheel don't clear the upper control arm when the suspension is loaded. I contacted the company and it's normal and they need to "self clearance" 😂. So after some terrible noises especially going over bumps, they have cut a groove into my upper control arms and are no longer making noise...They appear to be very strong axles though. Other than the clearance problem, I have no complaints.

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  • Nicholas1996
    replied
    Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post
    The new axles arrived just barely in time for the last roll race of the season. It made for a good time and the car ran strong. A guy I know sold his GTR and picked up a beautiful c6 Z06. He took a little convincing because he’s raced me in the past but was kind enough to give me a good baseline run to start the day.


    Good runs. What axles did you end up going with

    Leave a comment:


  • Mspir3d
    replied
    The new axles arrived just barely in time for the last roll race of the season. It made for a good time and the car ran strong. A guy I know sold his GTR and picked up a beautiful c6 Z06. He took a little convincing because he’s raced me in the past but was kind enough to give me a good baseline run to start the day.



    Leave a comment:


  • Mspir3d
    replied
    Mine has been in there for 5 years now and hasn't had a problem. The pipe dope has worked well for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • nextelbuddy
    replied
    Originally posted by Dtmpowerjc View Post

    It’s a thing, the stuff plumbers use.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    considering that i would want my fitting to be permanent since i dont plan on ever removing it.. wouldn't something like JB Weld be better since its permanent? after reading up on these pipe thread sealants, they all have great fluid and heat resistance properties however they all have one thing in common, they remain "wet" so you can remove the fittings at a later time. having a wet sealant on a fitting that is permanent seems like a no no.

    Leave a comment:


  • nextelbuddy
    replied
    Originally posted by Dtmpowerjc View Post

    It’s a thing, the stuff plumbers use.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Awesome thank you

    Leave a comment:


  • Dtmpowerjc
    replied
    Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post

    Finally got it done. Need to decide on a sealant though.

    Maximum PSI install guide just says to coat the thread with "pipe dope" not sure what that is. What did you use?

    Could I use jb weld on the threads and then thread the fitting and let it cure?

    What did you use?
    It’s a thing, the stuff plumbers use.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    Leave a comment:


  • nextelbuddy
    replied
    Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post
    It’s been a long time but I don’t think you can go wrong with a pilot hole to start with.
    Finally got it done. Need to decide on a sealant though.

    Maximum PSI install guide just says to coat the thread with "pipe dope" not sure what that is. What did you use?

    Could I use jb weld on the threads and then thread the fitting and let it cure?

    What did you use?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mspir3d
    replied
    Everyone has their own opinion how to do it. I put the cheapest Walmart 10w40 I could find in it. It was changed at 50 and 500 miles. I’ll go back to the twin power 10w60 I get from fcpeuro in the next few days.

    Leave a comment:


  • mleveroni
    replied
    Finally putting everything together. What break in procedure is recommended? I was thinking 10-60 for the first startup just to flush out all the assembly lube, then ams breakin oil for around 100 miles, then 10-60 with a zinc additive for around 500 miles. All the bearing clearances are stock.
    Attached Files

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  • Mspir3d
    replied
    It’s been a long time but I don’t think you can go wrong with a pilot hole to start with.

    Leave a comment:


  • nextelbuddy
    replied
    Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post
    I did it with the pan empty. I feel the shavings would float around in the oil and be spread out as the oil drains making it harder to clean up.
    One more thing... when you drilled the hole initially, Did you start with a smaller pilot hole first? Or did you just start off with the large drill bit and drill the hole right out of the gate?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mspir3d
    replied
    I did it with the pan empty. I feel the shavings would float around in the oil and be spread out as the oil drains making it harder to clean up.

    Leave a comment:


  • nextelbuddy
    replied
    Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post
    It was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.
    great, did you do it with oil in the pan or oil pan drained initially? i already drained my pan months ago in anticipation of this but have seen some people say do it with oil in the pan to catch shavings and drain oil out or that it didnt matter.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mspir3d
    replied
    It was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.

    Leave a comment:

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