Been a while since I've been on. Finally got all the parts for the motor. Took a quick look to admire the interesting bits then dropped them off at the machine shop. Right down the street from the machine shop was an E34 535i, so I ended up taking home a little project. I put my CSL wheels on it and even with its 3.4L motor, it can't spin the tires in the rain. Definitely could use a turbo.
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My dad has a 1988 e24 635csi that we’ll soon be working on turboing. The m30 is a work horseOriginally posted by mleveroni View PostBeen a while since I've been on. Finally got all the parts for the motor. Took a quick look to admire the interesting bits then dropped them off at the machine shop. Right down the street from the machine shop was an E34 535i, so I ended up taking home a little project. I put my CSL wheels on it and even with its 3.4L motor, it can't spin the tires in the rain. Definitely could use a turbo.
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Finally got some of the last bits back from welding. This was more involved than I initially thought.
Turbine housing modified to accept wastaste dump tube to tial mvr 44mm gate and plumbed back into turbo down pipe merge collector to keep things as quiet as possible.
Cold side charge pipe welded up from intercooler to intake manifold with tial 50mm bov and pmas hpx maf sensor
Intake manifold modified to close up factory installed bov flange since bov was relocated to charge piping.
Compressor housing modified with aluminum elbow and piping to get turbo outlet to shoot across the back of the block and back down by the by the AC compressor to keep intercooler piping cleared from ground.14 Photos
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Max psi inatalled the entire kit so not sure.Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
when you installed your kit, did you dril and tap your oil pan with the pan on the car or did you remove the pan? i know the max psi kit comes with detailed instructions that show tapping on the car.... i still have to do this part but scared to death with metal shavings.....
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i have a copy of the max psi instruction book and they have awesome pictures showing the place you drill and tap as well as pictures with the large circle pan cover on the bottom removed showing that you can see the hole you just drilled.Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostI drilled and tapped it on the car 5 years ago and haven’t had an issue. If you want to take the pan off for peace of mind it probably would be a good time to do rod bearings if they’re almost due.
when you did it did you find it relatively easy with that large circle plate removed and being able to get into the pan to clean it out?
my rod bearing were done about 5k miles ago so i dont need to pull the pan for that thankfully lol.
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great, did you do it with oil in the pan or oil pan drained initially? i already drained my pan months ago in anticipation of this but have seen some people say do it with oil in the pan to catch shavings and drain oil out or that it didnt matter.Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostIt was fairly easy to remove the shavings with the center cover removed. I also packed the tap with grease to catch as many as possible. If you don’t have to remove the oil pan, I wouldn’t. It’s easy to create an oil leak or shear off one of the tiny bolts and create more headaches.
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One more thing... when you drilled the hole initially, Did you start with a smaller pilot hole first? Or did you just start off with the large drill bit and drill the hole right out of the gate?Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostI did it with the pan empty. I feel the shavings would float around in the oil and be spread out as the oil drains making it harder to clean up.
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Finally putting everything together. What break in procedure is recommended? I was thinking 10-60 for the first startup just to flush out all the assembly lube, then ams breakin oil for around 100 miles, then 10-60 with a zinc additive for around 500 miles. All the bearing clearances are stock.
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