Dynoed 840 sae at 25 psi last year but lost a piston at the ice cream cruise from a wrist pin retaining clip coming loose. I probably squeezed it a little too hard when I was putting it together. Im currently putting together a new engine but with selling my house and working oncology, I haven’t had time to assemble it. Changes for this year are
leaving stock dme for proefi
1000 cc ID -> 1700 ID injectors
Engine girdle
I’m still running the 72 mm XonaRotor from last year. The goal is 1100 once it’s back together but it might require some changes with the fuel pumps.
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Hoping to have mine wrapped up here soon! Here is my build:Originally posted by Boost View PostMore boost. How are your builds going?
- custom top mount manifold (retains AC)
- Precision 6870 (with t51r mod)
- Radium fuel system
- ID1700’s
- built motor
- built/ported head
- syvecs ecu
- 3.5” titanium straight pipe exhaust
- OS giken LSD with 3.15 gears
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I have a BW sxe369 (69/73 in precision terms) coming in. Was going to part out the kit and do a different build, but that would mean deleting the ac and a bunch of other things making it not street friendly. I also ordered FIC 2150cc injectors. Hoping to have the car running soon
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It’s a BW 64.5/67 I think the downpipe is 3” but I’m not sure. Exhaust is stock after section 2 I should say. It does make a lot less power when the exhaust cutout is closed but still makes plenty of boost.Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
That's good data and refreshing to hear.
What size turbo were you running? How large is your exhaust turbine side?
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That's good data and refreshing to hear.Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post
I run the stock exhaust with an electronic cutout. I don’t think your exhaust is the problem especially at that level of pressure. I ran 20 psi on the dyno last week with the cutout closed. When I had problems building boost, it was because there was a big crack in my intake manifold.
What size turbo were you running? How large is your exhaust turbine side?
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I run the stock exhaust with an electronic cutout. I don’t think your exhaust is the problem especially at that level of pressure. I ran 20 psi on the dyno last week with the cutout closed. When I had problems building boost, it was because there was a big crack in my intake manifold.Originally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
Curious, when you first installed your max psi turbo kit, what exhaust did you have installed? i'm having any issue where i cant find a boost leak and my turbo wont hit 10psi only 9 and then trails to 4psi by 8k rpms. people are telling my my exhaust is too restrictive and creating too much back pressure or that my turbo is too small and that the S54 is asking for air up top than my turbo can give.
ive replaced my cheap ebay BOV and Wg with authentic Tial Q 50mm and turbosmart wg45 hypergate units and had no change in my boost issue so im trying to figure out something else.
ive been trying to find someone selling a maximum psi intake manifold for sale to replace the ebay one i have currently.
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Curious, when you first installed your max psi turbo kit, what exhaust did you have installed? i'm having any issue where i cant find a boost leak and my turbo wont hit 10psi only 9 and then trails to 4psi by 8k rpms. people are telling my my exhaust is too restrictive and creating too much back pressure or that my turbo is too small and that the S54 is asking for air up top than my turbo can give.Originally posted by Mspir3d View Post.025 would probably be fine for 10 psi. You can always regap them if you get spark blowout.
ive replaced my cheap ebay BOV and Wg with authentic Tial Q 50mm and turbosmart wg45 hypergate units and had no change in my boost issue so im trying to figure out something else.
ive been trying to find someone selling a maximum psi intake manifold for sale to replace the ebay one i have currently.
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Just wondering if anyone has thought to try comp turbo oil-less turbos in the past. They are big in the 370z car scene. A shot of grease each oil change every 3000 miles. Works great, and quick to build boost. From what I’ve researched it’s almost a no brainer to go that route and have an easier install.
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.022 is good so far for 23 psiOriginally posted by nextelbuddy View Post
so you suggest .022? is that specific to a range of power of PSI one will be running or is it just a value thats been confirmed to work well in forced induction overall? i will be running 10PSI and was curious if i should do .025 or .022 as you mentioned
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.025 would probably be fine for 10 psi. You can always regap them if you get spark blowout.
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so you suggest .022? is that specific to a range of power of PSI one will be running or is it just a value thats been confirmed to work well in forced induction overall? i will be running 10PSI and was curious if i should do .025 or .022 as you mentionedOriginally posted by Nicholas1996 View Post
.022”
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I have that same line. There’s some good pressure in there, I bet that made a mess.Originally posted by Nicholas1996 View Post
Jesus. Haha I’ll definitely look into them. I can only imagine mine are screaming and about to snap. Had a mishap with the car on Sunday. Bimmerworld Vanos line started leaking after 2k miles. Not exactly
exciting. But bimmerworld took care of it thankfully!
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Wonder where you got that idea? 🧐Originally posted by Mspir3d View PostThe box I have says dcpr9e. I think the plugs that are in now are gapped at .020 and the plugs going in I gapped down to .018. I tend to go through a decent amount of plugs but they’re super cheap at advance auto parts with the 15% off. If you’re not running a lot of pressure, a larger gap is better.
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The box I have says dcpr9e. I think the plugs that are in now are gapped at .020 and the plugs going in I gapped down to .018. I tend to go through a decent amount of plugs but they’re super cheap at advance auto parts with the 15% off. If you’re not running a lot of pressure, a larger gap is better.Last edited by Mspir3d; 10-07-2020, 05:22 PM.
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