If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Alright flimsy racecar seat backs made a couple things very obvious.
First up, the way I had attached my plywood barrier was fine for stopping sharp objects from cracking the carbon wall, but not for actually stopping heavy objects from entering the cabin.
I wanted to attach it to as many stock structural points as possible, but with the seat latches gone, I had nowhere to attach the barrier latches. Dug through the stash and found a couple nuts that fit the stock seat latch bolts:
The captive nuts in the seat latches aren't in line with each other, so I was only able to get one bolt through my latches. Decided to add a couple rivets to keep them from rotating:
I would have preferred to use both bolts, but these top latches aren't what's gonna be seeing most of the load in a crash, so it should be fine. What will be seeing significant load are the bottom two points that attach to the frame tie down brackets:
I had previously used wood eye screws for this. They would have 100% ripped out under any significant load, but I was fine with that cause the stock seat backs were still in place. That is no longer the case, so I got some proper bolt through eye bolts and big fender washers:
Did a similar thing up top:
First issue fixed, onto the next one.
The Slon wall has acted as a giant speaker that amplifies all the annoying noises/vibrations that get to the the rear subframe/RACP since I installed it. However, the seat foam absorbs the majority of that, so hasn't really been a problem. Turns out the stock seat backs were contributing to the attenuation and absorbing a very specific resonance from the panel as well. Poked around and found that if I put pressure on two specific points on the panel, I was able to get rid of the resonance completely.
Following video shows my testing for this. I'm hitting the panel with my fist where the green circle is and am placing one finger with very light pressure where the red x is:
Headphones encouraged, but you can hear the resonance right at 201 Hz. You can even clearly see it in the waveform of the audio in that video. Notice how much longer the decay of each hit is when I'm not damping the left/right sides with my finger:
Printed some modified sections for my seat backs and added some adhesive window foam seal to put some pressure on the panel at the two dampening points that I identified:
Resonance is gone! I'm so glad this was an easy fix, it was driving me crazy on the highway. If you want to feel my pain, type 201 Hz into this website and just let it play for a while: https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/
That's what I had to listen to constantly whenever I went above 60ish mph. So glad it's gone.
Last edited by heinzboehmer; 11-25-2024, 10:51 AM.
Resonance is gone! I'm so glad this was an easy fix, it was driving me crazy on the highway. If you want to feel my pain, type 201 Hz into this website and just let it play for a while: https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/
No way, my car makes this noise too, and I don’t even have the Slon wall!! I’m guessing it’s the Supersprint Sport muffler. 😂😭😭
The fabric on the front tweeter covers was starting to peel off, so got some non-HK covers to replace them:
It's a stupid detail, but I do like the all black cover more.
Since the door cards were off, I took the opportunity to fix a rattle inside the passenger door. Sounded like the clip that holds the window regulator cable in the middle of the door had broken off, so was prepared to zip tie it. However, I found that the cable just wasn't clipped in. Clip still felt nice and pliable, so I just clipped the cable back in. We'll see if it pops back out or not.
Also, found no witness marks on the door from the bavsound speaker Bry5on. Must be a coupe vs wagon difference.
Wheel hop was starting to get pretty bad, likely exacerbated by all the rear biased weight savings that has happened over the past year or so. Turned down the rebound on the rear dampers by quite a bit (it's at a half turn from full soft now) and it feels pretty good now. More testing to come.
Update: Still wheel hops like crazy when losing traction in a straight line, in the wet. Damn.
Seems fine if I initiate a slide in the wet and in all conditions in the dry. Granted, I didn't go and do burnouts when it was dry, but still. For sure an improvement over how it was before though.
Last edited by heinzboehmer; 12-12-2024, 05:18 PM.
Yeah you're not the only one who has told me that they experience the same thing. Guess it's just inherent to the rear suspension design. Oh well, at least it only does it in a straight line.
RPM (2600-3000ish), but it seems louder and more unbearable at higher speeds. I think adding the updated rear bench insulator would help reduce it.
Interesting. Maybe something in the clutch assembly? Can't think of anything that would make that noise and be related to RPM. Especially if it sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car.
Comment