That is perfection mate!
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Robs E46M Rosso Corsa Street Build
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Originally posted by D-O View PostLooks very nice Rob.
Did you paint over the Boom Mat? The black finish you have looks quite good.
Don't suppose that axle puller can be used for disassembly?
JesseLast edited by robgill; 11-13-2021, 01:04 PM.
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One of my favorite all time builds. I keep coming back to this thread!Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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Originally posted by robgill View Post
Fishing touch was to cut the floor board and carpet. I did this by using the same pilot drill from below and the same hole drill for a perfect fit. Still need to figure out the side trim pieces but will save that for later.
ingenious!!! did you need to have weight on top of the floorboard/carpet while you drilled to keep it in place?
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Originally posted by usdmej View Post
ingenious!!! did you need to have weight on top of the floorboard/carpet while you drilled to keep it in place?
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Likely the last outing of the year! Met up with EYEHAVEYOU & @andyman746 at Sunday Motor Co in Jersey for some Coffee. Actually started snowing while we were there so its definitely about time to shut it down for the winter. NYC loves to dump absurd amounts of salt all over the roads...
With the rearend done this car drives SOOOOOO GOOOOOD. Absolutely love it. Everything is better. It shifts much smoother, its feels a lot stiffer/responsive and I really don't notice any additional NVH with the solid subframe bushings.Last edited by robgill; 12-02-2021, 09:54 AM.
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Originally posted by robgill View PostWith the rearend done this car drives SOOOOOO GOOOOOD. Absolutely love it. Everything is better. It shifts much smoother, its feels a lot stiffer/responsive and I really don't notice any additional NVH with the solid subframe bushings.
I did the same rear suspension rebuild on mine last year. Everything is a monoball or OE bushing. Subframe bushings are Delrin (the car came to me with Delrin) and I opted to go for solid TMS aluminum diff bushings. I absolutely love how direct the rear suspension feels. It's racecar good.
But it's racecar loud too, thanks to the diff bushings. Noisy little bastards! Had I know just how loud they'd be, I never would have gone that route. I'm likely going to go swap them out with the OE BMW bushings and try my luck pressing them into the diff cover.
Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
You went with OE/OEM differential bushing though, is that correct?
I did the same rear suspension rebuild on mine last year. Everything is a monoball or OE bushing. Subframe bushings are Delrin (the car came to me with Delrin) and I opted to go for solid TMS aluminum diff bushings. I absolutely love how direct the rear suspension feels. It's racecar good.
But it's racecar loud too, thanks to the diff bushings. Noisy little bastards! Had I know just how loud they'd be, I never would have gone that route. I'm likely going to go swap them out with the OE BMW bushings and try my luck pressing them into the diff cover.
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Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
You went with OE/OEM differential bushing though, is that correct?
I did the same rear suspension rebuild on mine last year. Everything is a monoball or OE bushing. Subframe bushings are Delrin (the car came to me with Delrin) and I opted to go for solid TMS aluminum diff bushings. I absolutely love how direct the rear suspension feels. It's racecar good.
But it's racecar loud too, thanks to the diff bushings. Noisy little bastards! Had I know just how loud they'd be, I never would have gone that route. I'm likely going to go swap them out with the OE BMW bushings and try my luck pressing them into the diff cover.
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Originally posted by Slideways View Post
What diff bushings do you have now? The stock diff bushings only come with the cover unfortunately.
I thought the front bushing was the same diameter as the 2 in the rear? Maybe not, will double check...
Originally posted by robgill View PostYeah I stuck with the OE diff bushings. I think those plus OE engine and trans keeps the NVH down.Last edited by Casa de Mesa; 12-02-2021, 04:10 PM.Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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I am learning a lot from this journal. Thanks.
Coincidentally, I am now installing the rear subframe/suspension assembly after finishing up Vincebar and VinceSkinz install. The TIS says to set the diff in place and attach three (only three?) driveshaft bolts, install all three diff mount bolts hand tight and finally to torque the front bolt followed by the two rears. I have the diff in place and the bolts in loosely, but I have not attached the drive shaft yet.
Will I really need to pull out the three diff bolts before attaching the drive shaft?
Can I just install all six drive shaft bolts rather than only three?
Can the half shafts be attached and torqued to the diff before the diff is torqued?
Lots of questions. Maybe I am over thinking it, but I do not want to take this thing apart again any time soon.
Did you grease the rear CV joint in the drive shaft, and if so, what sort of grease did you use?
Thanks.
JesseOld, not obsolete.
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Originally posted by D-O View PostI am learning a lot from this journal. Thanks.
Coincidentally, I am now installing the rear subframe/suspension assembly after finishing up Vincebar and VinceSkinz install. The TIS says to set the diff in place and attach three (only three?) driveshaft bolts, install all three diff mount bolts hand tight and finally to torque the front bolt followed by the two rears. I have the diff in place and the bolts in loosely, but I have not attached the drive shaft yet.
Will I really need to pull out the three diff bolts before attaching the drive shaft?
Can I just install all six drive shaft bolts rather than only three?
Can the half shafts be attached and torqued to the diff before the diff is torqued?
Lots of questions. Maybe I am over thinking it, but I do not want to take this thing apart again any time soon.
Did you grease the rear CV joint in the drive shaft, and if so, what sort of grease did you use?
Thanks.
Jesse- Installed inner control arms to subframe. I used spherical bearing so I was able to torque those bolts off the car. If you are using OE bushings you'll need to do this on the car with arms in approximate resting position on the car.
- Installed the diff in the subframe. I did this so I could easily torque the rear diff mounts. Be really careful not to over torgue the OE diff bolts/bushings, they are easy to damage. One tradeoff here is the subframe is a lot heavier and harder to line up with the diff installed. May try installing the diff in the subframe after its installed in the car next time.
- Installed the subframe (with arms and diff) into car.
- Installed the drive shaft. I did this so I can put the car in gear to keep the diff from turning when installing the output shafts. I used this lube referenced in realoem and a new seal.
- Installed the trailing arms with new bearings, hubs, shields already installed. Remember to install the shield BEFORE the hubs. Learned that the hard way...
- Install the output shafts. I held the trailing arms up with a jack and got them generally in place. Hand tightened the shaft to diff bolts. Then pulled the spines through. I put antisieze on the splines mostly to make it easier to get them out in the future.
- Torqued the shaft to diff bolts in no particular order, rotating the as needed to get access.
- Installed the e brakes line and pads. Do yourself a favor and buy this tool. Makes attaching the springs much easier.
- Install brakes
- With car on wheels and on the ground, torque the shaft to hub bolts
Last edited by robgill; 01-13-2022, 09:09 AM.
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