What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch?

[rbg]

Thank you guys! I could not imagine brass would do so bad where factory was plastic...

[heinzboehmer]

Thanks for all the input guys. Here's a list I put together of all the stuff I'm going to change in case anyone wants it:

Item	Part Number	Quantity	Unit Price	Total Price	Vendor
Luk Clutch Kit	-	1	$269.29	$269.29	Amazon
Pressure Plate Screws	21207548052	6	$1.52	$9.12	FCP
Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube	23117512866	1	$65.78	$65.78	ECS
Throw Out Bearing	21511223582	1	$73.77	$73.77	FCP
Pilot Bearing	11211720310	1	$26.40	$26.40	FCP
Steel Pivot Pin	21511223281	1	$23.92	$23.92	FCP
Release Arm	21511223302	1	$30.72	$30.72	FCP
Locking Pin	23111222979	1	$20.05	$20.05	ECS
Locking Pin	23311224130	1	$17.06	$17.06	ECS
Ball	7119986280	1	$0.99	$0.99	ECS
Locking Pin	23317501584	1	$39.29	$39.29	ECS
Thrust Pin	23311282444	1	$27.16	$27.16	ECS
Compression Spring	23311228393	1	$7.04	$7.04	FCP
Compression Spring	23111222720	1	$8.77	$8.77	FCP
Compression Spring	23317511337	1	$9.55	$9.55	FCP
Compression Spring	23311228405	1	$9.32	$9.32	FCP
Repair Kit	23317506947	1	$186.24	$186.24	ECS
Flywheel	21212229900	1	$383.34	$383.34	FCP
Flywheel Bolts	11222243051	8	$2.39	$19.12	FCP
Rear Main Seal	11142247867	1	$122.45	$122.45	FCP
Input Shaft Seal	23121228493	1	$14.43	$14.43	FCP
Output Shaft Seal	23121222769	1	$5.32	$5.32	FCP
Shift Selector Seal	23127501582	1	$22.12	$22.12	FCP
Driveshaft Centering Sleeve	26117526611	1	$9.25	$9.25	FCP
Guibo	26112226527	1	$68.78	$68.78	FCP
Guibo Nuts	26127536563	6	$1.63	$9.78	FCP
Exhaust Gasket	11627830668	2	$14.43	$28.86	FCP
Exhaust Nut	18301317898	4	$6.35	$25.40	FCP
Exhaust Nut	11621744323	6	$3.07	$18.42	FCP
Shifter Arm Bushing	25111222015	1	$18.61	$18.61	FCP
Autosolutions AutoCross	-	1	$540.00	$540.00	AutoSolutions

I included the flywheel because I can feel my clutch slipping at high load, so I'm assuming it'll be damaged. I'll return it if not. Also, I'm leaning towards doing all the seals, especially after seeing they all have springs and are not the same type as the front crankshaft seal. Depending on how my original ones look when I take the trans off, I might decide against it though.

[mrgizmo04]

For the shifter these are also worth replacing (unless they are parts of kits you included - I didnt run all your part numbers in search to see what is included):
25117507695
25111434194
25111220600

Cpv and csb good on yours?

[ATB88]

+1 my brass one looked like Kaivs after 20k miles.

Ugh, it hurts me to imagine that this is what mine looks like now, as mine's at 20k. Seems like this would probably be quietly hurting the clutch by not allowing full range of motion for the TOB?

[heinzboehmer]

For the shifter these are also worth replacing (unless they are parts of kits you included - I didnt run all your part numbers in search to see what is included):
25117507695
25111434194
25111220600

Cpv and csb good on yours?

Those parts are all replaced by the AutoSolutions SSK if I'm not mistaken. I did the CPV o-ring about 7k mi ago and the CSB about 13k mi ago.

[mrgizmo04]

Ugh, it hurts me to imagine that this is what mine looks like now, as mine's at 20k. Seems like this would probably be quietly hurting the clutch by not allowing full range of motion for the TOB?

The other end of the fork is engaged by the clutch slave cylinder plunger, so if the pivot wears enough, yes, full range of motion will be limited and you will not be able to fully engage/disengage the clutch since pp will not be getting enough compression and it'll get hard to get it into/out of gear.

[mrgizmo04]

Those parts are all replaced by the AutoSolutions SSK if I'm not mistaken. I did the CPV o-ring about 7k mi ago and the CSB about 13k mi ago.

Ok cool.

[Arith2]

I should've replaced my pivot pin with a steel one I guess. Mine was plastic and pretty deformed.

Can do heater hose orings since the intake will be off. Change your trans fluid if that wasn't said. Do it while it's off. It's absolute cake when there's not a car in the way and gravity is working with you, not against you. Just put 1.6-1.8L in.

One thing that was weird about my LUK clutch kit was the metal thing holding the pressure plate in the middle. I couldn't comprehend how to remove it initially. I would assume it had something to do with the auto adjustment.

[mrgizmo04]

One thing that was weird about my LUK clutch kit was the metal thing holding the pressure plate in the middle. I couldn't comprehend how to remove it initially. I would assume it had something to do with the auto adjustment.

Yeah unit is SAC - self adjusting clutch. It keeps the pp spring fully tensioned out of the box until you secure it to the flywheel and then you release it. Adjustment mechanism moves the pp surface out as it/clutch wear so you have the same engagement point in your clutch throw. Truthfully - a bit more trouble than it's worth prob. You have to reset it if you ever remove the pp and want to reuse it and you never know if your clutch is toward the end of life since it doesn't move engagement point higher up in the throw, but anyway.

[jbfrancis3]

Thanks for all the input guys. Here's a list I put together of all the stuff I'm going to change in case anyone wants it:

I included the flywheel because I can feel my clutch slipping at high load, so I'm assuming it'll be damaged. I'll return it if not. Also, I'm leaning towards doing all the seals, especially after seeing they all have springs and are not the same type as the front crankshaft seal. Depending on how my original ones look when I take the trans off, I might decide against it though.

Great list, very helpful. You've got a minor math error about 2/3 of the way down - money saved!
- Agree on the flywheel; you may find the DM worn even if the surface is in suitable condition. RockAuto has the LUK DMF for about $100 less at the moment: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
- You've got the OEM pilot bearing and that's the right call. I once bought a FAG (OE) and the fit was poor (too loose).
- The rear main seal assembly is the more straightforward albeit more expensive route. Buying just the rear main seal and driving it into the existing aluminum carrier is straightforward, as well as remounting with a new gasket, so long as you work neatly and cleanly. Some say you'll still get a leak. Its personal preference.

[Arith2]

Could always do a lightweight flywheel. It's a pretty underrated mod. Our engines are pretty balance and have dampener on the front so chatter shouldn't be real detrimental to the engine. You'd just have to learn how to drive stick all over and of course there's the chatter. Maybe get a flywheel that can at least be resurfaced.

[Obioban]

Could always do a lightweight flywheel. It's a pretty underrated mod. Our engines are pretty balance and have dampener on the front so chatter shouldn't be real detrimental to the engine. You'd just have to learn how to drive stick all over and of course there's the chatter. Maybe get a flywheel that can at least be resurfaced.

Meh, downgrade imo. Maker the car sound like a hooptie and pretty decent correlation between light weight flywheels and harmonic balancer failure.

Even when I had a dedicated track car, I moved it from the light weight flywheel it came with to a stock factory mass.

[cozmo kraemer]

Metal pivot pins add nhv. If that’s worth it is up to you. Personally I’d replace with new plastic— failure is pretty rare. If you do go with a metal one, I’d use the OE BMW metal one.

I’d do:
new plastic pivot pin
new OE throw out bearing
new pilot bearing
rear main seal
clutch/pressure plate
guibo
center support bearing
any exhaust nuts removed
any exhaust gasket removed

I had a plastic pivot pin get crushed and I had to pull the trans to replace, just the pin with a metal one that I have never had to worry about again. If you ever have the trans out, put the metal pivot pin in. The rest I agree with.

[Obioban]

I had a plastic pivot pin get crushed and I had to pull the trans to replace, just the pin with a metal one that I have never had to worry about again. If you ever have the trans out, put the metal pivot pin in. The rest I agree with.

Yeah, it's a close call for me-- close enough that I have a BMW metal pivot pin on the shelf that I opted not to install, but also didn't get rid of

It's basically comes down to the slight chance of a failure from the plastic one vs the guaranteed but pretty insignificant NHV increase from the metal one. I end up on new plastic, but I wouldn't fault anyone for going the other way.

... but definitely not brass.

[heinzboehmer]

Great list, very helpful. You've got a minor math error about 2/3 of the way down - money saved!
- Agree on the flywheel; you may find the DM worn even if the surface is in suitable condition. RockAuto has the LUK DMF for about $100 less at the moment: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
- You've got the OEM pilot bearing and that's the right call. I once bought a FAG (OE) and the fit was poor (too loose).
- The rear main seal assembly is the more straightforward albeit more expensive route. Buying just the rear main seal and driving it into the existing aluminum carrier is straightforward, as well as remounting with a new gasket, so long as you work neatly and cleanly. Some say you'll still get a leak. Its personal preference.

Thanks for pointing out the math error, I've fixed the table. Also thanks for the RockAuto link. Trying to decide if I should still buy it through FCP because of the lifetime replacement.