Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What Else Should I Change When I do My Clutch?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #61
    I REALLY wish we would've had this discussion a week ago. I'll see how the brass holds up I guess. Maybe in 20k miles I'll do a manual swap. Probably not though. I really don't want to drop my trans because of the SMG. That was the most annoying part.
    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

    "Do it right once or do it twice"

    Comment


      #62
      Just got my Luk clutch kit and it looks like it doesn't come with the pressure plate screws. Updated the list I made to include those.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

      Comment


        #63
        Originally posted by kaiv View Post

        I meant the factory metal pin.

        The E46 M3 factory pin is plastic and they do fail.


        On the other hand, my factory plastic one looked brand new at 165k. I did end up replacing it with an OE metal one, and there is a bit more noise, but nothing crazy.
        Originally posted by Obioban View Post
        Flywheel is just a waste of money, if your current clutch hasn’t been slipping. The original fly wheel is good for 2-3 clutches, so long as it hasn’t been scored.
        It's also cheap enough nowadays that I'd hesitate not to replace it when doing all that labor.

        Comment


          #64
          Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
          Just got my Luk clutch kit and it looks like it doesn't come with the pressure plate screws. Updated the list I made to include those.
          Yeah pp bolts are not included, even in Sachs kits. Some kits don't even come with the clutch disc alignment tool, did yours?
          Youtube DIYs and more

          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

          Comment


            #65
            Yeah my Luk kit didn't come with them either. It does come with an alignment tool though. The bolts were on my flywheel and are reusable ones.
            This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
            https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

            "Do it right once or do it twice"

            Comment


              #66
              Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
              Yeah my Luk kit didn't come with them either. It does come with an alignment tool though. The bolts were on my flywheel and are reusable ones.
              Just be careful reusing.
              The torque spec pdf has some "interesting" comments included for the flywheel bolts - it says to always replace and not to use locktite. Well, "always replace" is up to the owner, they are not stretch bolts, but regarding locktite comment, all new ones come with some sort of thread lock on them...Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_20200418-142703_Chrome.jpg Views:	0 Size:	34.2 KB ID:	13724

              PP bolts in pdf says to always replace, no comment about locktite, but all new ones come with some thread lock.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_20200418-143004_Chrome.jpg Views:	0 Size:	33.7 KB ID:	13725

              Personally I replaced. If I were reusing, I would wipe the threads clean, brake cleaner blast them and use locktite.
              Youtube DIYs and more

              All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

              PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

              Comment


                #67
                Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
                Yeah my Luk kit didn't come with them either. It does come with an alignment tool though. The bolts were on my flywheel and are reusable ones.
                Even if it comes with one, you should buy a separate one that has a removable screw so that you can get the pressure plate over it without releasing the SAC mechanism.

                Comment


                  #68
                  Originally posted by terra View Post

                  Even if it comes with one, you should buy a separate one that has a removable screw so that you can get the pressure plate over it without releasing the SAC mechanism.
                  Yeah good point, Terra, I've seen some kits come with the ring kind.

                  The kind that will NOT work on our car due to SAC mechanism:
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	5703042_rnb_14523_pri_larg.jpg
Views:	1003
Size:	11.0 KB
ID:	13762

                  The kind you want to make sure was either included in your kit, or that you have, before mounting the clutch/pp is this kind:
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	CT1011.jpg
Views:	993
Size:	19.8 KB
ID:	13763
                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                  Comment


                    #69
                    The Luk kit I got has the screw type alignment tool. Also for $10 I'd rather just replace the pressure plate screws, so I ordered them.
                    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                    Comment


                      #70
                      The one I got came with the ring tool but I had bought the screw type tool separately so that was okay.

                      could probably lot just 3D print one too nowadays.

                      Comment


                        #71
                        Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

                        Just be careful reusing.
                        The torque spec pdf has some "interesting" comments included for the flywheel bolts - it says to always replace and not to use locktite. Well, "always replace" is up to the owner, they are not stretch bolts, but regarding locktite comment, all new ones come with some sort of thread lock on them...

                        Personally I replaced. If I were reusing, I would wipe the threads clean, brake cleaner blast them and use locktite.
                        I did get news ones with my flywheel but the are reusable is what I meant to say. I definitely put some blue locktite on them. JB Racing uses stronger bolts and in their directions it says basically the last thing you said. Clean and relocktite when removed. They also came with washers which I don't think OE bolts do. I believe this helps keep them tight. The reason they do this is because the flywheel is more track oriented. It doesn't come with actual threads, they insert helicoils instead of actually machining teeth into the aluminum. It's designed to be able to come off and go back on. My exhaust covers up alot of the chatter. I couldn't even tell there was any. The camera definitely picked it up though.
                        This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                        https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                        "Do it right once or do it twice"

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                          I'm getting ready change out the clutch in my car. Plan on replacing it with the Luk kit and using OE throw out and pilot bearings. Since the trans will be out of the car, I plan on replacing all detent springs, rear main seal, driveshaft centering sleeve, and shifter bushings.

                          I was thinking of doing the seals for the input, output, and selector shafts, but my recent experience installing a new front crankshaft seal is making me want to stay away from radial seals. My trans has no leaks and so it seems replacing these seals isn't necessary. My car has 122k on it so should I replace them anyway?

                          Is there anything else I should do with the trans off? Thanks!

                          Edit: This is the list of things I ended up ordering for myself. I left a couple of things out (some shifter bushings, exhaust gaskets, etc) because I either already had them or they were included as part of the aftermarket pieces I bought.
                          Item Part Number Quantity Unit Price Total Price Vendor
                          Luk Clutch Kit - 1 $269.29 $269.29 Amazon
                          Pressure Plate Screws 21207548052 6 $1.52 $9.12 FCP
                          Throw Out Bearing Guide Tube 23117512866 1 $65.78 $65.78 ECS
                          Throw Out Bearing 21511223582 1 $73.77 $73.77 FCP
                          Pilot Bearing 11211720310 1 $26.40 $26.40 FCP
                          Steel Pivot Pin 21511223281 1 $23.92 $23.92 FCP
                          Release Arm 21511223302 1 $30.72 $30.72 FCP
                          Locking Pin 23111222979 1 $20.05 $20.05 ECS
                          Locking Pin 23311224130 1 $17.06 $17.06 ECS
                          Ball 7119986280 1 $0.99 $0.99 ECS
                          Locking Pin 23317501584 1 $39.29 $39.29 ECS
                          Thrust Pin 23311282444 1 $27.16 $27.16 ECS
                          Compression Spring 23311228393 1 $7.04 $7.04 FCP
                          Compression Spring 23111222720 1 $8.77 $8.77 FCP
                          Compression Spring 23317511337 1 $9.55 $9.55 FCP
                          Compression Spring 23311228405 1 $9.32 $9.32 FCP
                          Repair Kit 23317506947 1 $186.24 $186.24 ECS
                          Flywheel 21212229900 1 $383.34 $383.34 FCP
                          Flywheel Bolts 11222243051 8 $2.39 $19.12 FCP
                          Rear Main Seal 11142247867 1 $122.45 $122.45 FCP
                          Input Shaft Seal 23121228493 1 $14.43 $14.43 FCP
                          Output Shaft Seal 23121222769 1 $5.32 $5.32 FCP
                          Shift Selector Seal 23127501582 1 $22.12 $22.12 FCP
                          Driveshaft Centering Sleeve 26117526611 1 $9.25 $9.25 FCP
                          Guibo 26112226527 1 $68.78 $68.78 FCP
                          Guibo Nuts 26127536563 6 $1.63 $9.78 FCP
                          Exhaust Gasket 11627830668 2 $14.43 $28.86 FCP
                          Exhaust Nut 18301317898 4 $6.35 $25.40 FCP
                          Exhaust Nut 11621744323 6 $3.07 $18.42 FCP
                          Shifter Arm Bushing 25111222015 1 $18.61 $18.61 FCP
                          Autosolutions AutoCross - 1 $540.00 $540.00 AutoSolutions
                          This thread has been incredibly helpful as the shop i'm working with to do this job prefers me to supply the parts (seems unusual but not a problem). Can someone walk me through the parts required to rebuilt the detent springs/guides? I see on this list there are several different but similar parts, locking pins, thrust pin, ball, compression springs, + repair kit. I assume in doubt I could just source this exact list of parts and do just fine, but wanted to wrap my head around the design as much as possible. For what it's worth I also picked up an AS AutoCross shifter as well which i couldn't be more hyped about, and i'm comfortable with the implications that kit has on what parts I do vs don't need to think about replacing in the shifter assembly.
                          Last edited by keljos; 04-19-2021, 11:36 AM.
                          2012 E92 M3 Competition - LeMans Blue / Speed Cloth - 6MT
                          [SOLD] 2004 E46 M3 Coupe - Carbon Black / Black - 6MT

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

                            Yeah good point, Terra, I've seen some kits come with the ring kind.

                            The kind that will NOT work on our car due to SAC mechanism:
                            Click image for larger version

Name:	5703042_rnb_14523_pri_larg.jpg
Views:	1003
Size:	11.0 KB
ID:	13762

                            The kind you want to make sure was either included in your kit, or that you have, before mounting the clutch/pp is this kind:
                            Click image for larger version

Name:	CT1011.jpg
Views:	993
Size:	19.8 KB
ID:	13763
                            Anyone doing this job please read this and avoid yourself a major headache and delay.

                            Order the 2nd style alignment tool

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by keljos View Post

                              This thread has been incredibly helpful as the shop i'm working with to do this job prefers me to supply the parts (seems unusual but not a problem). Can someone walk me through the parts required to rebuilt the detent springs/guides? I see on this list there are several different but similar parts, locking pins, thrust pin, ball, compression springs, + repair kit. I assume in doubt I could just source this exact list of parts and do just fine, but wanted to wrap my head around the design as much as possible. For what it's worth I also picked up an AS AutoCross shifter as well which i couldn't be more hyped about, and i'm comfortable with the implications that kit has on what parts I do vs don't need to think about replacing in the shifter assembly.
                              You can cross correlate them with realoem.



                              Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                              Youtube DIYs and more

                              All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                              PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                              Comment


                                #75
                                “I could not imagine brass would do so bad where factory was plastic...”

                                It’s counter intuitive but the latter has less friction than the former which worn out faster.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X