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    #31
    Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post

    What are the part # for the new bolts
    It's not a BMW part.
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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      #32
      Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post

      What are the part # for the new bolts
      They came as part of the hardware included with the kit. That said, I can ask Cayn what you can buy off the shelf in proper size at a hardware store, because I didn't note the size and didn't measure them.
      Last edited by mrgizmo04; 04-13-2020, 12:15 PM.
      Youtube DIYs and more

      All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

      PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

        They came as part of the hardware included with the kit. That said, I can ask Cayn what you can buy off the shelf in proper size at a hardware store, because I didn't note the size and didn't measure them.
        Damn it, I am about to reassemble and dont see any bolts.

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post

          Damn it, I am about to reassemble and dont see any bolts.
          Talked to Cayn today. He recently redesigned the kit so that you just reuse the stock bolts. My kit from him was one of the first ones he made (I did mine almost 2 years ago) and my kit came with a drill, drill guide and longer bolts, his new kits don't come with those because they are no longer needed after redesign.

          The instructions that he includes (at least he used to in printed binder form) with the kits are very comprehensive, so take a look.
          Youtube DIYs and more

          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

            Talked to Cayn today. He recently redesigned the kit so that you just reuse the stock bolts. My kit from him was one of the first ones he made (I did mine almost 2 years ago) and my kit came with a drill, drill guide and longer bolts, his new kits don't come with those because they are no longer needed after redesign.

            The instructions that he includes (at least he used to in printed binder form) with the kits are very comprehensive, so take a look.


            A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.

            Is this it?


            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by beefaroni View Post



              A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.

              Is this it?

              Yes, that is the next step in the reinforcement process.

              Once the topside reinforcement is done, you should also do the front mount extension so all 4 mounts are tied together and strengthened. I also installed the 6 point brace.

              https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...-reinforcement

              https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...32379371454599

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by beefaroni View Post



                A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.

                Is this it?

                https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...pside-beam-kit
                Yep, that ties the rear 2 mounts, you also want to include the kit that ties that to the front 2, which is this one: https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...-reinforcement

                You can easily contact him on Facebook, look for Cayn Plotkin. I'll also ping him to join here in case he has not yet. He was pretty active on m3forum with informative posts.
                Youtube DIYs and more

                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View Post
                    Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
                    Yes, yes and negligible.

                    They're 100% worth it. Makes the rear end so much more stiff due to the solid contact point.

                    NVH increase is minimal so long as you use OEM diff mounts. As soon as you go poly or harder than OEM, the diff will transmit its lovely whine straight into the cabin.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      I have a similar issue with my e46, the left rear subframe mount has ripped itself from the chassis and I have found tears in the upper deck in the trunk area. Does anyone know of an experienced shop or person who can perform the necessary repairs in the bay area?

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by SricoSuave View Post
                        I have a similar issue with my e46, the left rear subframe mount has ripped itself from the chassis and I have found tears in the upper deck in the trunk area. Does anyone know of an experienced shop or person who can perform the necessary repairs in the bay area?
                        Yes post pics and I’ll determine who to refer you to.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        2003 E46 M3 TiAg/Cinnamon 6MT
                        2005 E46 330i ZHP Imola/Sand



                        | Karbonius | Schrick | Supertech | Volk | Recaro | FCM | SuperSprint | Turner | Hyperco | GC | PFC | VAC | OMP | Radium Engineering | MPRacing |

                        Instagram:@thegenius46m

                        NorCal DME Programming and Coding Expert

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View Post
                          Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
                          Ton of us are running those. Do not run them if you are stock ride height as they are designed for lowered cars.
                          3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

                            Yes post pics and I’ll determine who to refer you to.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            These are the best photos I could get without a lift. It appears the previous owner tried to repair the subframe based on the reinforcement plates and welds in the upper trunk area. I believe the left rear subframe mounting point has broken loose from the chassis because there is a loud clunking noise coming from the rear of the car. Thanks for your help its much appreciated!
                            Last edited by SricoSuave; 09-09-2022, 01:39 PM.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by SricoSuave View Post

                              These are the best photos I could get without a lift. It appears the previous owner tried to repair the subframe based on the reinforcement plates and welds in the upper trunk area. I believe the left rear subframe mounting point has broken loose from the chassis because there is a loud clunking noise coming from the rear of the car. Thanks for your help its much appreciated!
                              Hit up TC Design in Campbell. That's pretty bad but they're specialize in this stuff and have dealt with way worse.
                              2003 E46 M3 TiAg/Cinnamon 6MT
                              2005 E46 330i ZHP Imola/Sand



                              | Karbonius | Schrick | Supertech | Volk | Recaro | FCM | SuperSprint | Turner | Hyperco | GC | PFC | VAC | OMP | Radium Engineering | MPRacing |

                              Instagram:@thegenius46m

                              NorCal DME Programming and Coding Expert

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

                                Hit up TC Design in Campbell. That's pretty bad but they're specialize in this stuff and have dealt with way worse.
                                Just sent them an email, thanks man

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