Subframe Dropped and cracks found

[scotty737]

Subframe doesn’t need to be dropped for this right? Since it’s being done at the top.

It does. At least for most.

[timmo]

I wonder what's different about the Redish V3 plates versus V2?

Subframe doesn’t need to be dropped for this right? Since it’s being done at the top.

I'd just drop it... when I did my Vincebar you technically didn't have to drop it all the way, just a few inches. But dropping it all the way makes life so much easier

[WestBankM4]

Subframe doesn’t need to be dropped for this right? Since it’s being done at the top.

Subframe absolutely has to be dropped to do this. I purchased a VinceBar Epoxy/Rivet version and will be doing this soon, unsure if I have any cracks of course. After my front/rear suspension refresh, I'll have a better idea.

[scotty737]

I wonder what's different about the Redish V3 plates versus V2?



I'd just drop it... when I did my Vincebar you technically didn't have to drop it all the way, just a few inches. But dropping it all the way makes life so much easier

V3 has some top side plates. I’ll post pictures of the instructions tomorrow if I remember.

[BubbaTree]

All of us either have had the subframe addressed, or will need it sooner or later. I haven't had mine addressed yet, and am curious about the available options for a "fix". Anyone care to post the product they used, installation method ( epoxy vs welding), how many miles/years has your fix held up without failing?
Thanks

[Mattn1192]

Subframe absolutely has to be dropped to do this. I purchased a VinceBar Epoxy/Rivet version and will be doing this soon, unsure if I have any cracks of course. After my front/rear suspension refresh, I'll have a better idea.

Asking because I had my subframe reinforced already but didn’t do the Vince bar or any of that. Just the plates

[poss]

"Topside" reinforcement. A bar for the rears (cmp, vince, "gtr style" bar like SME, DMG, Mason) and cups for the front or the CMP brace that connects all 4.

- also other options are the CMP 'rails' (no bar - cheapest/easiest option) and making your own bar (I had a friend make one up - pretty easy job for a machinist/welder).

The bar improves chassis rigidity too. CMP Rails and Stealth Bar are invisible (under boot floor panel). CMP bar is not (intrudes into boot). Other X-style braces are highly intrusive and probably not the ideal engineering solution for topside RACP reinforcement (they don't directly couple to chassis rails)

[poss]

Asking because I had my subframe reinforced already but didn’t do the Vince bar or any of that. Just the plates

There is no need to drop subframe for topside repair only if you can extend subframe mounting hole/thread through to connect to topside brace with subframe on (1 bolt hole at a time)

[George Hill]

Triple check that drivers rear mount, drivers side wheel arch seam and spot welds in that area. I'd be surprised if those are not an issue as well.

[Obioban]

Plates (any plates) alone are NOT a fix-- just a delay.

[MTiz]

The CMP Beam kit has been out of stock for a while and I don't want the intrusive VinceBar. I look forward to seeing pictures of the Redish V3 Kit

[Obioban]

The CMP Beam kit has been out of stock for a while and I don't want the intrusive VinceBar. I look forward to seeing pictures of the Redish V3 Kit

...

The vincebar is the least intrusive option-- it doesn't impinge on trunk space at all! Once you have the trim back in, it looks like you haven't done anything to the car at all!

[sapote]

I dropped my subframe today and did a quick clean and found cracks at the front two mounting points.

Does the right side have the long crack?

[scotty737]

Does the right side have the long crack?

Yes, passenger side.

[liam821]

Just a side note. I highly recommend removing a bunch of the interior when welding those rear top-side plates in. The smell from the welding is awful and difficult to get out of the interior/carpet after its done. It's also easy for sparks to fly during the process and damage the interior.