Originally posted by BMWE46M3
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Subframe Dropped and cracks found
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I finished up the paint/underbody stuff tonight. I tried to replicate the factory "overspray" and now just have a dusted blue trunk. I kinda wish I left it the ecoat color, but it is supposed to be blue. When it dried, the color ended up being appropriate(ignore the white specs from my masking plastic).Last edited by scotty737; 09-09-2021, 03:00 PM.
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For anyone interested, the second picture clearly illustrates why I designed the VinceSkinz the way I did.Originally posted by scotty737 View PostI dropped my subframe today and did a quick clean and found cracks at the front two mounting points. The rear mounts looked fine. For the larger crack, it is just a drill the ends and weld correct?
Going to do a deep clean tomorrow and check the spot welds around the wheel wells.
For reference: 2006 with 92.5k miles
Please have a look at this video, 12 minutes in I show the right front mount and skin https://youtu.be/ucBL4y7LoL0

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by VinceSE2; 09-17-2021, 07:25 AM.
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The VinceBar, both the original “stealth” and the newer “simplified” designs are completely hidden under the interior and out of the way.Originally posted by MTiz View PostThe CMP Beam kit has been out of stock for a while and I don't want the intrusive VinceBar. I look forward to seeing pictures of the Redish V3 Kit
Here’s the simplified design pictured

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Yes, this is very typical damage. And damage that is most often missed as people don’t know to look there, not to mention don’t clean these areasOriginally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post
Just to add, I don't think many people know how much of an issue this is on the e46 chassis so here's some pics of mine when I did my vincebar after bottom plates were already added. Failed spot welds that are almost un-noticeable or hidden under seam sealer. My subframe mount cracks were much smaller than yours too. The right way is to take off all the seam sealer where George mentioned because the stress will transfer to panel edges will pull down on the RACP at the edges due to weak design. I drilled, fill-weld the failed spot welds and stitch welded the seams of the RACP at the trunk and wheel wells in addition to the vincebar. Pretty labor intensive but I recommend doing this when doing your rear RACP reinforcement. This is my interpretation of true reinforced RACP.
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No bolt like the vincebar or cmp. You drill through the spot welds in the cavity on either side and plug weld to the reinforcemnt plate underneat around the threaded portion of the rear mounts. The front mount, they just wanted teh factory mig welds ground down and rewelded and cracked repaired there.Originally posted by Albino09 View PostSo, Scotty, how do the Redish V3 interact with the mounting location? I can see they're boxing the location and tying it to the frame rail, but what about the stud and spot welds? Does this kit also convert to a bolt mount similar to Vince or CMP?
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Interesting. So for the rear mounts, it is transferring the stud from the internal sheet metal and welding it to the reinforcement plate instead?Originally posted by scotty737 View Post
No bolt like the vincebar or cmp. You drill through the spot welds in the cavity on either side and plug weld to the reinforcemnt plate underneat around the threaded portion of the rear mounts. The front mount, they just wanted teh factory mig welds ground down and rewelded and cracked repaired there.2002 M3 Coupe | 1988 320i Touring

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I'm not really sure what that means. The stud is in its normal place and the sheet metal inside is welded to the plate in the form of plug welds instead of the factory spot welds, if that makes sense. Nothing is done to the stud. Just those plugs to the underside and the side plate that is welded to connect the frame rail to the RACP.Originally posted by Albino09 View Post
Interesting. So for the rear mounts, it is transferring the stud from the internal sheet metal and welding it to the reinforcement plate instead?
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Yes, I tried reading through the instructions but without pictures it wasn't as clear. From the Vincebar deep dives, I thought one of the big weak points was the spot welds that hold the stud to the sheet metal. So in that respect, I was curious how the V3 plate system is addressing that.Originally posted by scotty737 View Postlook at post #45 I posted the instructions of this whole part...2002 M3 Coupe | 1988 320i Touring

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I'll be installing the epoxy/rivet simplified VB this winter and would absolutely love if it turned out looking this clean.Originally posted by VinceSE2 View Post
The VinceBar, both the original “stealth” and the newer “simplified” designs are completely hidden under the interior and out of the way.
Here’s the simplified design pictured

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What products do you recommend as far as seam sealer/paint? Mine is Silver Grey Metallic like the photo, did you have some paint mixed up for you or did you source that somewhere?2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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