Subframe Dropped and cracks found

[WestBankM4]

Just a side note. I highly recommend removing a bunch of the interior when welding those rear top-side plates in. The smell from the welding is awful and difficult to get out of the interior/carpet after its done. It's also easy for sparks to fly during the process and damage the interior.

Good post, I totally didn't think about that. I might just lay down some plastic sheet, partitioning the front interior after removing the rear interior completely. You may have just saved my interior, thanks!

[scotty737]

Just a side note. I highly recommend removing a bunch of the interior when welding those rear top-side plates in. The smell from the welding is awful and difficult to get out of the interior/carpet after its done. It's also easy for sparks to fly during the process and damage the interior.

I’ve got it all out. Thanks.

[heinzboehmer]

Just a side note. I highly recommend removing a bunch of the interior when welding those rear top-side plates in. The smell from the welding is awful and difficult to get out of the interior/carpet after its done. It's also easy for sparks to fly during the process and damage the interior.

+1

I removed most of the interior and created a partition with some cardboard and tape. The sparks from all the grinding alone are enough to damage everything.

[MTiz]

...

The vincebar is the least intrusive option-- it doesn't impinge on trunk space at all! Once you have the trim back in, it looks like you haven't done anything to the car at all!

You know, I thought Vincebar was the cross-brace but upon further research, that's something completely different. When looking on the shopping tab on Google, I'm only seeing the cross brace, however. Is there a vendor that you got the vincebar from or is it something you just had your machine shop create?

[Obioban]

You know, I thought Vincebar was the cross-brace but upon further research, that's something completely different. When looking on the shopping tab on Google, I'm only seeing the cross brace, however. Is there a vendor that you got the vincebar from or is it something you just had your machine shop create?

I got it from Vince directly.

He's on here-- VinceSE2

[heinzboehmer]

Or reach out to Vince on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/PPRnDnews/

[enjoy_m3]

Triple check that drivers rear mount, drivers side wheel arch seam and spot welds in that area. I'd be surprised if those are not an issue as well.

Just to add, I don't think many people know how much of an issue this is on the e46 chassis so here's some pics of mine when I did my vincebar after bottom plates were already added. Failed spot welds that are almost un-noticeable or hidden under seam sealer. My subframe mount cracks were much smaller than yours too. The right way is to take off all the seam sealer where George mentioned because the stress will transfer to panel edges will pull down on the RACP at the edges due to weak design. I drilled, fill-weld the failed spot welds and stitch welded the seams of the RACP at the trunk and wheel wells in addition to the vincebar. Pretty labor intensive but I recommend doing this when doing your rear RACP reinforcement. This is my interpretation of true reinforced RACP.

[Thonas]

is the Mason full rear x brace still a good topside option?

[Tbonem3]

is the Mason full rear x brace still a good topside option?

Most will say no as it only addresses the rear points, but doesn't tie them into the rails.

I would say the correct answer is, "maybe." For me, as a DIYer, for $500, I put in a DMG rear brace to supplement my stiffer bushings and plates. I believe it will be sufficient for the rear, and I like tying the shock towers together. You immediately feel the increased rigidity. I do want to do front cups, however, but no rush.

[jet_dogg]

There was a member here who has the rear dmg brace, forgot which, and said increase in rigidity was dramatic so I bought one as well. I've yet to install so we'll see.

[Tbonem3]

Me?

[jet_dogg]

Think it was petrol m3, pff don't think I'll be able to find the post.

[Thonas]

Most will say no as it only addresses the rear points, but doesn't tie them into the rails.

I would say the correct answer is, "maybe." For me, as a DIYer, for $500, I put in a DMG rear brace to supplement my stiffer bushings and plates. I believe it will be sufficient for the rear, and I like tying the shock towers together. You immediately feel the increased rigidity. I do want to do front cups, however, but no rush.

I have the front Vince cups going in when I do the repair/reinforcement.

[jet_dogg]

Me?

By some act of God I was able to find it quickly, props to the excellent search function guys.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/group-buys-aa/82417-group-buy-for-slonik-cf-rear-bulkhead-which-can-optionally-be-a-back-seat-delete?p=83376#post83376

[scotty737]

Here is the rear plate set up. The plates under the rear seat area are essentially just covers. Here is some of the instruction set for the rear plates. Look similar to the vorshlag offering by attaching to the chassis legs. then there is another plate on top that ties into these.