BlueBus: A fully integrated A2DP Bluetooth solution

[User123]

For you German guys ( Andy2424 / Der_Spanier) -- If I wanted a German distribution partner, is there anyone you'd recommend? I've heard that a lot of folks over there are interested but are scared of Bundeszollverwaltung

Thanks!
-Ted

Check https://www.schmiedmann.de/ This should be what you are looking for.

[sev]

anyone else have issues with the firmware update tool being extremely unresponsive in windows 10? I exempted it from Windows Defender and ran it as administrator but it runs so laggy, I cant even click on the file to flash..

[t3ddftw]

anyone else have issues with the firmware update tool being extremely unresponsive in windows 10? I exempted it from Windows Defender and ran it as administrator but it runs so laggy, I cant even click on the file to flash..

I experienced this issue when I remoted into a customers computer. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to replicate it on either Win10 box I have access to .

If you wait long enough, it will work. If you haven't downloaded the new version of the tool, I would redownload it now and try that (I updated it three weeks ago). The new version flashed 5x faster than the old.

-Ted

[Andy2424]

One thing to note is that the microphone wires should be shielded and the shield wire should be grounded (you can even connect it to mic negative). Failure to do so could create echos for the other party when making calls outside of Bluetooth mode.

Thanks!
-Ted

very good reference, how many wires are required and which cross-section

2x0.14 do I have here?

ML 2014 Televes Microphone 2x0,14 Black

[BubbaTree]

I'm still loving my BB in my '03 M3 vert, and have a couple of related questions. Searching doesn't show me that anyone has a battery drain proven to be related to this really neat unit. I'm still chasing a drain, and considering every potential cause. Next, what will I need to add a mic for the telephone? Meanwhile, I can't say enough good things about using the BlueBus in this old car!
Thanks for the advice!

[User123]

anyone else have issues with the firmware update tool being extremely unresponsive in windows 10? I exempted it from Windows Defender and ran it as administrator but it runs so laggy, I cant even click on the file to flash..

Yes!

I first tried on Win 7 64bit. The program starts without any issue but it is not possible to select a device. It only shows "select device".
On Win 10, Defender did not allow the program to start. It was not classified as safe. You have to grant an exception. After that the program worked without any problems.

[Der_Spanier]

I'm still loving my BB in my '03 M3 vert, and have a couple of related questions. Searching doesn't show me that anyone has a battery drain proven to be related to this really neat unit. I'm still chasing a drain, and considering every potential cause. Next, what will I need to add a mic for the telephone? Meanwhile, I can't say enough good things about using the BlueBus in this old car!
Thanks for the advice!

Try updating to the latest version of the software: https://www.bluebus.dev/software. There were battery drain issues with a previous release, perhaps that's what's causing your issue.

[t3ddftw]

I'm still loving my BB in my '03 M3 vert, and have a couple of related questions. Searching doesn't show me that anyone has a battery drain proven to be related to this really neat unit. I'm still chasing a drain, and considering every potential cause. Next, what will I need to add a mic for the telephone? Meanwhile, I can't say enough good things about using the BlueBus in this old car!
Thanks for the advice!

There are two good ways to test if the BlueBus is at fault:

1. Unplug the BlueBus when you leave the car. if it doesn't drain, it's likely the BlueBus
2. Close the car but leave the BlueBus somewhere visible (with the trunk open). Leave the car for 5 minutes. When you return, the green light should be OFF. Unlocking the car should cause it to pop on.

Thanks!
-Ted

[t3ddftw]

very good reference, how many wires are required and which cross-section

2x0.14 do I have here?

ML 2014 Televes Microphone 2x0,14 Black

I think 0.14 refers to mm^2? If so, that's 26 AWG and it should work. I use 0.25mm^2 wiring by default but 0.14 should work. You need two wires, foil shielding and one shield pig tail.

-Ted

[BubbaTree]

There are two good ways to test if the BlueBus is at fault:

1. Unplug the BlueBus when you leave the car. if it doesn't drain, it's likely the BlueBus
2. Close the car but leave the BlueBus somewhere visible (with the trunk open). Leave the car for 5 minutes. When you return, the green light should be OFF. Unlocking the car should cause it to pop on.

Thanks!
-Ted

I'm already running .16 firmware, and the unit does shut down/wake up as Ted indicated. With my Foxwell scanner, I've pulled several codes that refer to IHKA, but haven't yet defined exactly what they are and how they may apply to this drain. FWIW, scanning the car with the Foxwell unit takes about 4 minutes ignition position 2, engine off. When finished, the battery has drained to about 10.4 v and won't start the car. Battery guys swear it's good, and the car will start every time after sitting for several days or longer. It's that ignition position 2, engine not running that kills the battery, so, here I go again! I'll post those fault codes ASAP, and then ask for any advice. Thanks, again!

[t3ddftw]

I'm already running .16 firmware, and the unit does shut down/wake up as Ted indicated. With my Foxwell scanner, I've pulled several codes that refer to IHKA, but haven't yet defined exactly what they are and how they may apply to this drain. FWIW, scanning the car with the Foxwell unit takes about 4 minutes ignition position 2, engine off. When finished, the battery has drained to about 10.4 v and won't start the car. Battery guys swear it's good, and the car will start every time after sitting for several days or longer. It's that ignition position 2, engine not running that kills the battery, so, here I go again! I'll post those fault codes ASAP, and then ask for any advice. Thanks, again!

Position two is pretty power intensive as you're running ALL the electronics in the car but not charging the battery.

I wouldn't expect a healthy battery to last more than 30-60 minutes until being drained.

-Ted

[jbfrancis3]

Hey all, looking for some help diagnosing no microphone functionality. This is an '03 E53 with a 54 pin connector (vehicle did not have TCU module from factory, harness simply tucked away). The vehicle is completely stock and was never tampered with (until me). The easiest thing for me is to assume is its a wiring issue.

When making a call:
- The radio is properly interrupted with the telephone function, and shows up on the factory nav screen
- I can hear the other end of the call perfectly.
- They just cannot hear me

This suggests all wiring is OK except for the microphone. In the photo, I've labeled what I think are the microphone wires A & B. I've also swapped A & B in the connector and no change. I'm assuming that I originally pulled the microphone pins per Ted's instructions - #19 and #1 - but consider there's always a chance for user error.

- Is there any way to test the microphone with ohm meter, if there's a known value, to verify I actually have the microphone leads and that there is a physical microphone present?
- Can anyone tell by the photo if I have the microphone? Note that A & B are part of a wiring grouping that includes another lead with clear insulating jacket, which goes into pin #21.

[t3ddftw]

Hey all, looking for some help diagnosing no microphone functionality. This is an '03 E53 with a 54 pin connector (vehicle did not have TCU module from factory, harness simply tucked away). The vehicle is completely stock and was never tampered with (until me). The easiest thing for me is to assume is its a wiring issue.

When making a call:
- The radio is properly interrupted with the telephone function, and shows up on the factory nav screen
- I can hear the other end of the call perfectly.
- They just cannot hear me

This suggests all wiring is OK except for the microphone. In the photo, I've labeled what I think are the microphone wires A & B. I've also swapped A & B in the connector and no change. I'm assuming that I originally pulled the microphone pins per Ted's instructions - #19 and #1 - but consider there's always a chance for user error.

- Is there any way to test the microphone with ohm meter, if there's a known value, to verify I actually have the microphone leads and that there is a physical microphone present?
- Can anyone tell by the photo if I have the microphone? Note that A & B are part of a wiring grouping that includes another lead with clear insulating jacket, which goes into pin #21.

A quick response to test: there should be 3v DC at the microphone in the headliner.

Also, the terminals in the blue insert for the 54 pin connector (there are grey and blue inserts) are not compatible with the de-pin adapter.

And finally, the wire colors for the three pin microphone connector should match the ones you have de-pinned.

Thanks!
-Ted

[jbfrancis3]

Also, the terminals in the blue insert for the 54 pin connector (there are grey and blue inserts) are not compatible with the de-pin adapter.
-Ted

Always appreciate the help! Let me spin that back to you: the blue 54 pin connector I have uses different pinouts, meaning I can't follow the 54 pin instructions to the T?

[t3ddftw]

Always appreciate the help! Let me spin that back to you: the blue 54 pin connector I have uses different pinouts, meaning I can't follow the 54 pin instructions to the T?

I doubt it's a different pinout. What I mean by incompatible is that you're unable to fully seat the metal pin terminal into the plastic housing, which may lead to poor contact.

-Ted