BlueBus: A fully integrated A2DP Bluetooth solution

[Der_Spanier]

* Didn't use the car today so I couldn't check. However, when I experienced the issue yesterday, pressing "2" did not change anything. I'll let you know if it happens again.

You can forget about this issue Ted. It was all caused by a loose wire at the radio connector. The radio did not know when key was in position 1, therefore display did not light up to show the clock. I'm guessing the BlueBus wasn't getting the command to send text to the display for that very same reason. All fixed now.

Also, I tried the 2nd beta of 1.1.17 and phone calls appear to work fine now

[t3ddftw]

You can forget about this issue Ted. It was all caused by a loose wire at the radio connector. The radio did not know when key was in position 1, therefore display did not light up to show the clock. I'm guessing the BlueBus wasn't getting the command to send text to the display for that very same reason. All fixed now.

Also, I tried the 2nd beta of 1.1.17 and phone calls appear to work fine now

Awesome, glad to hear it on both counts! Thanks for following up

-Ted

[GyroF-16]

Anyone else having issues with echoing during phone calls using BlueBus?

I have a 2005 E46 M3 w/ nav that had factory Bluetooth phone integration. Since installing the BlueBus and using the optional phone integration cable, the caller on the other end hears very distracting echoes of their own voice.
I thought I got it addressed with the right settings. I used Mic bias: ON, Mic Gain: -21. For a while, all seemed good.
Then, after the recall, after I reinstalled the BlueBus the echoing returned. I can’t find a combination of settings that will make it go away. I’ve even tried replacing the mic in the overhead panel with the older part number for the E46 (made it worse).

I’m hoping others have dealt with this and found a solution that I haven’t thought of yet. Anyone else found settings that makes phone calls sound right?

At this point, my next step will be to reinstall the factory Bluetooth module, as that never gave me any trouble.

[t3ddftw]

Anyone else having issues with echoing during phone calls using BlueBus?

I have a 2005 E46 M3 w/ nav that had factory Bluetooth phone integration. Since installing the BlueBus and using the optional phone integration cable, the caller on the other end hears very distracting echoes of their own voice.
I thought I got it addressed with the right settings. I used Mic bias: ON, Mic Gain: -21. For a while, all seemed good.
Then, after the recall, after I reinstalled the BlueBus the echoing returned. I can’t find a combination of settings that will make it go away. I’ve even tried replacing the mic in the overhead panel with the older part number for the E46 (made it worse).

I’m hoping others have dealt with this and found a solution that I haven’t thought of yet. Anyone else found settings that makes phone calls sound right?

At this point, my next step will be to reinstall the factory Bluetooth module, as that never gave me any trouble.

Hmm, I think you were in the first round of units, which had an issue where the noise and echo cancellation algorithm was not enabled by default. Can I have you follow this guide: https://github.com/tedsalmon/BlueBus...g-the-Terminal then run these commands (each followed by enter)?

bt cvc on
bt mgain c1
bt mbias on

Thanks!
-Ted

[Andy2424]

Hello Ted,

i bought a second bluebus. It's for a vehicle without a phone. I would like to retrofit that with Bluebus.

Do you know what i need

[t3ddftw]

Hello Ted,

i bought a second bluebus. It's for a vehicle without a phone. I would like to retrofit that with Bluebus.

Do you know what i need

You're going to need to find a donor harness or make your own wiring. There's a retrofit harness but it includes a bunch of stuff that you don't really need, and it has you install a _less than awesome_ bespoke speaker for telephony, rather than using the radios audio path.

Are you sure you don't want to wire in a 3.5mm mic and call it good?

-Ted

[Der_Spanier]

Hello Ted,

i bought a second bluebus. It's for a vehicle without a phone. I would like to retrofit that with Bluebus.

Do you know what i need

I retrofitted the wiring for the CD changer and the phone to my E46 and I've promised Ted to send him a quick list of what is needed so that he can include it on the website or GitHub. I've been a little busy so I haven't done that yet, but it's coming.

I agree with Ted, ignore the retrofit harness, you're much better off making your own wiring. It's not so difficult. What model is this second BlueBus for? What is its current audio setup?

I'll try to have the guide done between today and tomorrow and send it to you guys.

[Andy2424]

I retrofitted the wiring for the CD changer and the phone to my E46 and I've promised Ted to send him a quick list of what is needed so that he can include it on the website or GitHub. I've been a little busy so I haven't done that yet, but it's coming.

I agree with Ted, ignore the retrofit harness, you're much better off making your own wiring. It's not so difficult. What model is this second BlueBus for? What is its current audio setup?

I'll try to have the guide done between today and tomorrow and send it to you guys.

It's an M3 convertible. With Radio BMW Business (C43) (0661) • CD-Wechsler I-Bus Vorbereitung (0692) I retrofitted a CD54 Prof

I still have a ULF from another vehicle.

What is not quite clear to me, you need a ULF




But don't want to abuse the topic? But think that it can help some ...

[Der_Spanier]

It's an M3 convertible. With Radio BMW Business (C43) (0661) • CD-Wechsler I-Bus Vorbereitung (0692) I retrofitted a CD54 Prof

I still have a ULF from another vehicle.

What is not quite clear to me, you need a ULF




But don't want to abuse the topic? But think that it can help some ...

You do not need the ULF.

What you need is to run 6 wires from the dashboard to the boot where your BlueBus will be placed. We will be populating the 6 pin socket on the BlueBus for the telephone functions:

• Pin 1 on BB --> Pin 4 on round pin radio connector X18126 (Tel. radio mute)
• Pin 2 on BB --> Black wire on microphone (Microphone negative)
• Pin 3 on BB --> Pin 3 on 10-pin CD changer connector at the back of the radio X13321 (Tel. audio negative)
• Pin 4 on BB --> Pin 10 on X18126 (Tel. ON)
• Pin 5 on BB --> White wire on mic (Microphone positive)
• Pin 6 on BB --> Pin 8 on X13321 (Tel. audio positive)

Now, if the car does not have a microphone (I assume it doesn't), get the steering column-mounted one, it's the one that makes for the easiest installation and gives you best sound reception on the convertible (84 31 6 937 391) along with the steering column upper trim piece with the hole to place the mic in (32 31 6 765 803).

You'll want to get this plug housing as a connector to plug into the microphone: 61 13 6 931 929.

If you don't have the special tool to crimp the wires into the pins, I recommend you get the pins that come with 10 cm of wire:

• 1x 61 13 5 A07 B73: Round pins for X18126 (you only need one since it comes with one pin at each end of the wire)
• 8x 61 13 0 005 197: Flat pins
• 2x 61 13 0 005 198: pin contacts

Plus you'll need to buy a few meters of 0.35 mm² wire. I got it from here: https://auprotec.com/fahrzeugleitung...abel-meterware

I think that's all. It's difficult to wrap your head around it on paper, so do not hesitate to ask questions!

P.S.: Nice headunit, that CD54... If only used prices hadn't gone completely mad...

[Andy2424]

I still have a couple of CD54's. Unfortunately, they all have a few quirks. But could make one out of a few.

Certainly H05V-K also works with the cable, what do you think?

via PN we can in German ... :-)

[t3ddftw]

You do not need the ULF.

What you need is to run 6 wires from the dashboard to the boot where your BlueBus will be placed. We will be populating the 6 pin socket on the BlueBus for the telephone functions:

• Pin 1 on BB --> Pin 4 on round pin radio connector X18126 (Tel. radio mute)
• Pin 2 on BB --> Black wire on microphone (Microphone negative)
• Pin 3 on BB --> Pin 3 on 10-pin CD changer connector at the back of the radio X13321 (Tel. audio negative)
• Pin 4 on BB --> Pin 10 on X18126 (Tel. ON)
• Pin 5 on BB --> White wire on mic (Microphone positive)
• Pin 6 on BB --> Pin 8 on X13321 (Tel. audio positive)

Now, if the car does not have a microphone (I assume it doesn't), get the steering column-mounted one, it's the one that makes for the easiest installation and gives you best sound reception on the convertible (84 31 6 937 391) along with the steering column upper trim piece with the hole to place the mic in (32 31 6 765 803).

You'll want to get this plug housing as a connector to plug into the microphone: 61 13 6 931 929.

If you don't have the special tool to crimp the wires into the pins, I recommend you get the pins that come with 10 cm of wire:

• 1x 61 13 5 A07 B73: Round pins for X18126 (you only need one since it comes with one pin at each end of the wire)
• 8x 61 13 0 005 197: Flat pins
• 2x 61 13 0 005 198: pin contacts

Plus you'll need to buy a few meters of 0.35 mm² wire. I got it from here: https://auprotec.com/fahrzeugleitung...abel-meterware

I think that's all. It's difficult to wrap your head around it on paper, so do not hesitate to ask questions!

P.S.: Nice headunit, that CD54... If only used prices hadn't gone completely mad...

Thanks for being more helpful than me on this one -- I forgot you posted this before

One thing to note is that the microphone wires should be shielded and the shield wire should be grounded (you can even connect it to mic negative). Failure to do so could create echos for the other party when making calls outside of Bluetooth mode.

For you German guys ( Andy2424 / Der_Spanier) -- If I wanted a German distribution partner, is there anyone you'd recommend? I've heard that a lot of folks over there are interested but are scared of Bundeszollverwaltung

Thanks!
-Ted

[User123]

So, I installed the BlueBus last week. The installation was more or less plug and play. I had to "redo" the case a bit because the digital DSP connector did not fit. The first test with 2 different phones worked pretty well, S8 and A40. Unfortunately, there is a lot of noise and crackling when no music is playing. It's installed for 1 week now and the most annoying thing is that the pairing / connecting doesn't work most of the time. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes you can't even find the BlueBus if you scan for it with Bluetooth. Deleting pairings or disconnecting the power supply does not help. Right now this thing isn't worth the money because most of the time it just doesn't work. The other thing is that the SES adapter is still missing too.

Very unhappy....

[t3ddftw]

So, I installed the BlueBus last week. The installation was more or less plug and play. I had to "redo" the case a bit because the digital DSP connector did not fit. The first test with 2 different phones worked pretty well, S8 and A40. Unfortunately, there is a lot of noise and crackling when no music is playing. It's installed for 1 week now and the most annoying thing is that the pairing / connecting doesn't work most of the time. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes you can't even find the BlueBus if you scan for it with Bluetooth. Deleting pairings or disconnecting the power supply does not help. Right now this thing isn't worth the money because most of the time it just doesn't work. The other thing is that the SES adapter is still missing too.

Very unhappy....

Hi!

Let me break things down a bit so I can respond accordingly --

I had to "redo" the case a bit because the digital DSP connector did not fit

Sorry, I generally make sure the PCB doesn't bind up when assembling it into the case. I must've missed this one.

Unfortunately, there is a lot of noise and crackling when no music is playing.

Would you describe it as "Laser Beams"? This is a hit or miss issue with some DSPs. Essentially, when nothing is playing the DSP goes to "sleep" because of the lack of data being input and random noises are audible (likely stray static being picked up by the DAC in the DSP). I've been working with Ryan @ E39Source to fix this through software, but so far I've only had four users experience the issue.

Sometimes you can't even find the BlueBus if you scan for it with Bluetooth. Deleting pairings or disconnecting the power supply does not help.

This sounds like a possible fault with the BT module on the BlueBus. Can I have you install this firmware? bluebus_1_1_17_beta_7.hex (Right Click > Save Link As). Upgrade instructions can be found here.
Have you also tried to "clear" pairings? If yes, did you cycle BT on your phone afterwards? Sometimes this is necessary.

Once installed, please let me know if the red LED on the MID / OnBoard Monitor blinks.

Right now this thing isn't worth the money because most of the time it just doesn't work.

I can always take the unit back and refund you for it. If there is a hardware fault with it, then I can work with you to repair or replace the unit. Email me at support@bluebus.dev to continue the conversation, please.

The other thing is that the SES adapter is still missing too.

That's coming in a separate shipment. I ran out but didn't want to keep people waiting on their unit over a cable.

Thanks!
-Ted

[hahnweiler]

For you German guys ( Andy2424 / Der_Spanier) -- If I wanted a German distribution partner, is there anyone you'd recommend? I've heard that a lot of folks over there are interested but are scared of Bundeszollverwaltung

Hi Ted,
you might contact Startseite » Burkhart Engineering (burkhart-engineering.com).

-Wolfram

[Der_Spanier]

I still have a couple of CD54's. Unfortunately, they all have a few quirks. But could make one out of a few.

Certainly H05V-K also works with the cable, what do you think?

via PN we can in German ... :-)

Thanks for the offer but I reckon I'll stick to my Alpine CD53 for now. Less cool for sure, but right now I'm not too keen to deal with the usual CD54 issues.

You should be okay with H05V-K, although do no take my word for it, I am far, far, far from being an expert!

One thing to note is that the microphone wires should be shielded and the shield wire should be grounded (you can even connect it to mic negative). Failure to do so could create echos for the other party when making calls outside of Bluetooth mode.

Told you I wasn't an expert... I completely forgot about the shielding issue. I have not had any echoing issues yet, but then again I haven't had much time in the car to test call quality. If it is an issue, I'll just have to take half my interior apart again and fix it 🙄

Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between taking the call in and out of Bluetooth mode? Why would the echoing only happen outside of Bluetooth mode?

For you German guys ( Andy2424 / Der_Spanier) -- If I wanted a German distribution partner, is there anyone you'd recommend? I've heard that a lot of folks over there are interested but are scared of Bundeszollverwaltung.

Honestly, no clue. I only moved to Germany a year ago, I'm afraid I can't really help with that!