What oil?

[Arith2]

😳

I wouldn't run it a second longer than I had to to rinse it.

Any way you could flush the coolers without running the engine?

Why is there visible metal residue in your coolers? Did you have the engine open recently or something?

I brought my oil filter housing to a solvant tank and got the chunks out the best I could. There wasn't much as my engine ran for maybe 3 seconds after it blew. I'm not that worried as it didn't seem contaminated when I drained. I think there's just a little bit. I hope I'm right.

[IamFODI]

So there's definitely some fine metal residue in my oil cooler and probably in the oil filter housing. How long should I run my garbage oil for a good ole flush? I'm pretty sure it's too fine for an oil filter hence why I saw some in the oil cooler. I'm thinking maybe get oil to temp and change the oil. I luckily had one oil change left of Liquimoly so I didn't have to waste my TWS. Also will swap the filter.

😳

I wouldn't run it a second longer than I had to to rinse it.

Any way you could flush the cooler without running the engine?

Why is there visible metal residue in your cooler? Did you have the engine open recently or something?

[Arith2]

So there's definitely some fine metal residue in my oil cooler and probably in the oil filter housing. How long should I run my garbage oil for a good ole flush? I'm pretty sure it's too fine for an oil filter hence why I saw some in the oil cooler. I'm thinking maybe get oil to temp and change the oil. I luckily had one oil change left of Liquimoly so I didn't have to waste my TWS. Also will swap the filter.

[IamFODI]

Off topic sort of: How do you guys ship your oil back to FCP? How is it packed to avoid spillage. TIA

1. Put old oil into new(ly empty) oil bottles
2. Put old oil filter in new filter's box
3. Put oil bottles in a bag of some kind and close it (knot, zip-tie, tape, etc.)
4. Put bag in shipping box along with filter
5. Add filler (ideally paper) & RMA form
6. Tape box shut
7. Literally send it

Optional:

1. Before putting oil bottles into bag, wipe down (especially at threads and under cap)
2. Before putting filter in box, let sit and drip, and then wrap in a disposable shop towel

Helps to save the shipping materials FCP Euro used when shipping the oil change kit to you.

[Derek //M]

Off topic sort of: How do you guys ship your oil back to FCP? How is it packed to avoid spillage. TIA

[IamFODI]

BMW-approved oils of the era (including TWS) often carried API SL, but I'm pretty sure that was incidental. I don't think API SL was part of the requirements, and it's probably safe to say any oil that'd meet the requirements for these engines would blow away the relevant aspects of any API spec.

On an oil like this, I wouldn't take the API spec to mean anything. For this engine, I'd take SL-rated TWS over most other options regardless of API spec.

[Maxima SE]

Beck/Arnley’s 10w60 oil has an API Service rating of SM.

BMW Twin Power and Castrol Supercar in 10w60 both have the current “SN” rating.

Below is a description of API’s rating system.

For this instance, I’ll stick to the old saying, if one can’t say anything complementary, don’t say it at all, but from this information, draw your own conclusion about Beck/Arnley’s quality.

I am not an expert on this topic, but arent both of those backwards compatible? I believe SLis for the E46 M3 era and thus anything after that should be fine. Liqui Moly is SL as well.

[Speed Monkey]

anyone try beck/arnley's oil? its pretty cheap on rockauto.com

I would never buy it, just curious if anyone has experience with it.

Beck/Arnley’s 10w60 oil has an API Service rating of SM.

BMW Twin Power and Castrol Supercar in 10w60 both have the current “SN” rating.

Below is a description of API’s rating system.

For this instance, I’ll stick to the old saying, if one can’t say anything complementary, don’t say it at all, but from this information, draw your own conclusion about Beck/Arnley’s quality.

[Maxima SE]

anyone try beck/arnley's oil? its pretty cheap on rockauto.com

I would never buy it, just curious if anyone has experience with it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8453468&cc=3294229&jsn=2201&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqy8eOR0sg7BsyoIVzYVynWFQnKVzDUPjWt57DRzr6hkPcBj2qZvea040FeZ5mbo2nInMN1teVfEKSa%2F77%2F441JlDlsfD0nqlKvlJ7D%2Fobj4cBz5Hrdr7fs1n%2FoHVhL1sVDl9RxUAmxcrWGzBxtWOp53VnuNcA8CgEcUCLXsPOwKdkjoxBsBKWM5ukcul6dezKr0JyOKDRiYz5gCB1hLSHdylKqi2nww%2F1IQnz0vfp9xluvtm5E3OfICpxEQ%2F4YQgganjABu%2B80S4JO%2BBR49hAM2K9uNlnjZbetFuyZsoxeFZg%3D%3D

[chicane]

TWS 10w60, never anything else. I find deals all the time. The BMW dealer doesn't carry it anymore BUT the Audi dealerships do because they use it for the R8, I recently wen by there and they were moving to new digs down the street and they were selling a bunch of stuff half off or more because that was less crap for them to carry. I bought a case and half, everything they had in stock....

[r4dr]

I'm really not a fan of these oil tests. I wish there was a way to actually test the accuracy but they seem to be the only ones doing it.

I don't buy into them like it's the gospel or anything, but I think they provide objective information especially when you're comparing numbers between their tests. You would hope that their practices, regardless of the specific methods, would be consistent (reproducibility vs. absolute accuracy). I think it's also important to have a VOA to compare with a UOA, otherwise you don't have the whole story.

Looking at those two VOAs, I think it's interesting that this specific 0W-50 essentially looks like an 0W-40. I've seen lots of suggestions that S54s do fine on 0W-40 but who knows.

[IamFODI]

I'm really not a fan of these oil tests. I wish there was a way to actually test the accuracy but they seem to be the only ones doing it.

FWIW, there are actually a bunch of companies that do oil analysis. I wish more people knew this as Blackstone is... good, but not good enough to deserve their perceived monopoly.

I use Polaris Labs. They're relatively annoying to get started with (you have to call/email them to set up an account before you can order), but they sell 10-packs of analysis kits that give you a significantly better test package for less money than Blackstone charges.

MRT Laboratories and CAT are two more examples (not really familiar with their offering). If you want to shell out more money for a much more comprehensive analysis package plus personalized and detailed advice from a mad scientist, you can go to Dyson Analysis.

Can't think of any other specific examples but I know there are more.

[Arith2]

I'm really not a fan of these oil tests. I wish there was a way to actually test the accuracy but they seem to be the only ones doing it.

[r4dr]

Why not use FCP where you pay once + return shipping. Even though you are on the other coast from them, flat rate USPS will surely cost less than $50?

I did the FCP oil dance once. After paying to ship 7 quarts of oil back (in those round Redline bottles) via UPS (even with the discounted rates my Amazon friend gets at the HQ) and the hassle of doing all that... meh. Maybe 6 rectangular quart bottles (like the BMW ones) would fit better in a small flat rate USPS box.

Been using Eneos Sustina 0w50 since my rod bearing service at 157000 miles. It's a bit on the thin side it seems, but so far so good.

Do brand new rod bearings typically show lead in the first few oil analyses? Or does that take a couple intervals before it starts showing up again?

I'd be curious to see what a longer OCI looks like on that, like 7500 or so.

Edit: here's an interesting BITOG thread about a VOA of that 0W-50: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...topics/2816079

By comparison, here's a VOA of Redline 0W-40 side by side.

[Arith2]

I use Eneos in my wife's Sonata. It's really good oil. Not sure I'd personally run anything that thin but glad it works.