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  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by DESMDR3 View Post
    Latest oil analysis came in today. 2k miles on this Redline 5w-50. I usually change every 3k but I went to a open drift day event. The last sample before the Redline was on Motul 10w-60. I was anxious to get this report back cause there was a bunch of fine metal particles left behind on the drain pan lol
    Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
    Well the oil analysis doesn't show that and they didn't say anything about it.
    ICP spectroscopy, the basic method used by Blackstone and most other labs that serve individuals, can only see particles up to a few microns in size. Any particles you can see without magnifying equipment are going to be way too big to show up on the report.

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  • Arith2
    replied
    Originally posted by DESMDR3 View Post
    Latest oil analysis came in today. 2k miles on this Redline 5w-50. I usually change every 3k but I went to a open drift day event. The last sample before the Redline was on Motul 10w-60. I was anxious to get this report back cause there was a bunch of fine metal particles left behind on the drain pan lol
    Well the oil analysis doesn't show that and they didn't say anything about it.

    Leave a comment:


  • DESMDR3
    replied
    Latest oil analysis came in today. 2k miles on this Redline 5w-50. I usually change every 3k but I went to a open drift day event. The last sample before the Redline was on Motul 10w-60. I was anxious to get this report back cause there was a bunch of fine metal particles left behind on the drain pan lol
    Attached Files

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  • Arith2
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    That sucks, man. Sorry to hear/see that.

    Trying to think what I'd do beyond what you've already done. If all of the relevant parts were drained, flushed, and cleaned, I probably wouldn't worry about a thing. Maybe a 500 mile initial OCI and then full send. Otherwise, I'd probably start with your idea of running it a bit and then draining immediately, and then do another complete oil change (ideally draining the oil cooler as well) after 100 mildly driven miles, changing the filter each time.
    It happened back in June so I've mourned, went the 5 stages of grief and came to terms with it. Now I have a "fresh" engine. The bearings looked really good so no bottom end problems.

    That not a bad idea. I'll be driving mildly for 1200 miles because BMW specifies that for new bearings. Draining the oil cooler is one bolt so that's easy. It's just an extra quart or so. While that is a long time to break something in, I'm trying to avoid a recreation of anything that cause my engine to blow. I think neglect played a part in it, before I bought the car, but I'd rather be cautious.

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  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by Arith2 View Post

    I brought my oil filter housing to a solvant tank and got the chunks out the best I could. There wasn't much as my engine ran for maybe 3 seconds after it blew. I'm not that worried as it didn't seem contaminated when I drained. I think there's just a little bit. I hope I'm right.
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    That sucks, man. Sorry to hear/see that.

    Trying to think what I'd do beyond what you've already done. If all of the relevant parts were drained, flushed, and cleaned, I probably wouldn't worry about a thing. Maybe a 500 mile initial OCI and then full send. Otherwise, I'd probably start with your idea of running it a bit and then draining immediately, and then do another complete oil change (ideally draining the oil cooler as well) after 100 mildly driven miles, changing the filter each time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Arith2
    replied
    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
    😳

    I wouldn't run it a second longer than I had to to rinse it.

    Any way you could flush the coolers without running the engine?

    Why is there visible metal residue in your coolers? Did you have the engine open recently or something?
    I brought my oil filter housing to a solvant tank and got the chunks out the best I could. There wasn't much as my engine ran for maybe 3 seconds after it blew. I'm not that worried as it didn't seem contaminated when I drained. I think there's just a little bit. I hope I'm right.
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    Last edited by Arith2; 04-14-2020, 11:38 AM.

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  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
    So there's definitely some fine metal residue in my oil cooler and probably in the oil filter housing. How long should I run my garbage oil for a good ole flush? I'm pretty sure it's too fine for an oil filter hence why I saw some in the oil cooler. I'm thinking maybe get oil to temp and change the oil. I luckily had one oil change left of Liquimoly so I didn't have to waste my TWS. Also will swap the filter.
    😳

    I wouldn't run it a second longer than I had to to rinse it.

    Any way you could flush the cooler without running the engine?

    Why is there visible metal residue in your cooler? Did you have the engine open recently or something?
    Last edited by IamFODI; 04-14-2020, 12:18 PM.

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  • Arith2
    replied
    So there's definitely some fine metal residue in my oil cooler and probably in the oil filter housing. How long should I run my garbage oil for a good ole flush? I'm pretty sure it's too fine for an oil filter hence why I saw some in the oil cooler. I'm thinking maybe get oil to temp and change the oil. I luckily had one oil change left of Liquimoly so I didn't have to waste my TWS. Also will swap the filter.

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    Originally posted by Derek //M View Post
    Off topic sort of: How do you guys ship your oil back to FCP? How is it packed to avoid spillage. TIA
    1. Put old oil into new(ly empty) oil bottles
    2. Put old oil filter in new filter's box
    3. Put oil bottles in a bag of some kind and close it (knot, zip-tie, tape, etc.)
    4. Put bag in shipping box along with filter
    5. Add filler (ideally paper) & RMA form
    6. Tape box shut
    7. Literally send it

    Optional:
    1. Before putting oil bottles into bag, wipe down (especially at threads and under cap)
    2. Before putting filter in box, let sit and drip, and then wrap in a disposable shop towel

    Helps to save the shipping materials FCP Euro used when shipping the oil change kit to you.

    Leave a comment:


  • Derek //M
    replied
    Off topic sort of: How do you guys ship your oil back to FCP? How is it packed to avoid spillage. TIA

    Leave a comment:


  • IamFODI
    replied
    BMW-approved oils of the era (including TWS) often carried API SL, but I'm pretty sure that was incidental. I don't think API SL was part of the requirements, and it's probably safe to say any oil that'd meet the requirements for these engines would blow away the relevant aspects of any API spec.

    On an oil like this, I wouldn't take the API spec to mean anything. For this engine, I'd take SL-rated TWS over most other options regardless of API spec.
    Last edited by IamFODI; 04-12-2020, 09:27 AM.

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  • Maxima SE
    replied
    Originally posted by Speed Monkey View Post

    Beck/Arnley’s 10w60 oil has an API Service rating of SM.

    BMW Twin Power and Castrol Supercar in 10w60 both have the current “SN” rating.

    Below is a description of API’s rating system.

    For this instance, I’ll stick to the old saying, if one can’t say anything complementary, don’t say it at all, but from this information, draw your own conclusion about Beck/Arnley’s quality.

    I am not an expert on this topic, but arent both of those backwards compatible? I believe SLis for the E46 M3 era and thus anything after that should be fine. Liqui Moly is SL as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Speed Monkey
    replied
    Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
    anyone try beck/arnley's oil? its pretty cheap on rockauto.com

    I would never buy it, just curious if anyone has experience with it.
    Beck/Arnley’s 10w60 oil has an API Service rating of SM.

    BMW Twin Power and Castrol Supercar in 10w60 both have the current “SN” rating.

    Below is a description of API’s rating system.

    For this instance, I’ll stick to the old saying, if one can’t say anything complementary, don’t say it at all, but from this information, draw your own conclusion about Beck/Arnley’s quality.

    ​ ​
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    Last edited by Speed Monkey; 04-12-2020, 07:57 AM.

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  • Maxima SE
    replied
    anyone try beck/arnley's oil? its pretty cheap on rockauto.com

    I would never buy it, just curious if anyone has experience with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • chicane
    replied
    TWS 10w60, never anything else. I find deals all the time. The BMW dealer doesn't carry it anymore BUT the Audi dealerships do because they use it for the R8, I recently wen by there and they were moving to new digs down the street and they were selling a bunch of stuff half off or more because that was less crap for them to carry. I bought a case and half, everything they had in stock....

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