A little more digging. Better view of the inside. Going to give it a good clean up.
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Is my diff completely done?
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostDON'T REUSE THAT AXLE STUB!!! The short stub is the one that no one wants. Should be able to get one cheap. I might have an extra one. Everyone wants the long one to cut down when they swap an OSG or a ZF limited slip carrier.
You will need to replace the c-clip, at a minimum. The problem is if the end of the stub is damaged then the inside of the spider gear splines are also damaged. Which leaves a minimal section of good spline engagement. The splines will likely fail.
You will need to pull the carrier out, open it up and replace the spider gear. I can a diff fully apart. I am going to rebuild it in a couple of weeks. PM me if you're interested.
If anyone is replacing their axle boots, I have the correct size pinch clamps if you need them. I went through 2 kits and ain't no way the clamps were big enough.
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Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostA little more digging. Better view of the inside. Going to give it a good clean up.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View PostDON'T REUSE THAT AXLE STUB!!! The short stub is the one that no one wants. Should be able to get one cheap. I might have an extra one. Everyone wants the long one to cut down when they swap an OSG or a ZF limited slip carrier..
Re to the short stub -- you meant the flange? I don't understand why someone want to cut down a the long flange (one the left side), and then do you need to machine the splines on the cut off end? The short stub length is fixed and you cannot change to something longer, and how the long stub will fit in between the diff and the CV shaft?
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Got it. I'm slow on the uptake. The actual LSD carrier, not the pumpkin/housing.
This:
Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
This pic shows how much the good splines remain on the stub. You can't say that they will break off.
Re to the short stub -- you meant the flange? I don't understand why someone want to cut down a the long flange (one the left side), and then do you need to machine the splines on the cut off end? The short stub length is fixed and you cannot change to something longer, and how the long stub will fit in between the diff and the CV shaft?
Why would you not AT LEAST replace the axle stub.
And then you’re going to further screw up the splines in the large spider gear when you insert the damaged stub.
But hey…not my car.
A long stub is cut down to fit into OS Giken, ZF, Drexler, etc limited slips…as I said earlier. So you can certainly find a short stub for about $50 on eBay.
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Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
That’s about 1/4 of the length of the spline that is damaged. A similar length of the spline is certainly damaged in the spider gear.
Why would you not AT LEAST replace the axle stub.
And then you’re going to further screw up the splines in the large spider gear when you insert the damaged stub.
But hey…not my car.
A long stub is cut down to fit into OS Giken, ZF, Drexler, etc limited slips…as I said earlier. So you can certainly find a short stub for about $50 on eBay.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY APR ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER KMP SACHS RECARO AR SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO
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Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostWhen it comes to removing the top right bolt on the diff cover (without dropping diff from car) what’s the best way to do so? I’ve run into a clearance issue.
You can loosen the front bolt so the diff rotates down.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by bigjae46; 11-11-2021, 03:35 PM.
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Originally posted by Mattn1192 View PostWhen it comes to removing the top right bolt on the diff cover (without dropping diff from car) what’s the best way to do so? I’ve run into a clearance issue.
My car came pre-clearanced in the spare tire well (i.e. a hammer) by the former owner's mechanic or by BMW themselves. I was able to get a torque wrench for install/removal with either no extension or a stubby extension. You might be able to do the same to crack yours loose. Then use a jack to sightly unweight the diff and the bolt may spin out by hand. I don't *think* the diff bolts had thread locker on them.
Edit: you said diff cover, my bad. You should have room there I think. What's the tolerance?Last edited by Casa de Mesa; 11-11-2021, 06:42 PM.Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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Edited my post above. What kinda tolerance are you looking at? I thought there was roomBuild thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue
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