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SLON-WORKSHOP Torsional Rigidity Platform. E46 M3 new experience & tests. Tech info

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    #31
    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

    With almost any other go-fast part, I'd commend you for this line of thinking. That and putting any safety gear/equipment ahead of those same go-fast parts. But in the case of chassis stiffness, you're helping the car out too. You already have the part, I see no downsides to installing it.

    Besides, we all really just want to see the pics
    Pics? https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...055#post115055


    And yeah I know there's no downside to installing it, I just want to make sure that I'm at a point where the difference will actually be tangible.

    It might be stupid, but I've only been to the track once. I want to get comfortable with the car first and then start doing more mods to it.


    Originally posted by Slonik View Post

    You are not cool enough for our carbon wall?

    need to save this
    Lol, not just yet!

    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by Sharocks View Post
      Even though I can't get into my backseats, I like having them. Keeps the Diffsonline diff whine away from me.

      The CF on the panel is super legit though, I have to say.
      You don’t have to lose the back seat to install this. I will be keeping mine.

      2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
      2012 LMB/Black 128i
      2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
        I meant installed in your car

        Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
        And yeah I know there's no downside to installing it, I just want to make sure that I'm at a point where the difference will actually be tangible.

        It might be stupid, but I've only been to the track once. I want to get comfortable with the car first and then start doing more mods to it.
        Cool, that's legit and not stupid. Great attitude towards it.

        Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
          I meant installed in your car
          I had all the rear interior stuff out last week and I was super tempted to do a dry fit of the piece. Maybe I should have done it just for the pics lol
          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

            I had all the rear interior stuff out last week and I was super tempted to do a dry fit of the piece. Maybe I should have done it just for the pics lol
            Sub'd.
            Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by Sharocks View Post
              Even though I can't get into my backseats, I like having them. Keeps the Diffsonline diff whine away from me.

              The CF on the panel is super legit though, I have to say.
              Does i'm understand correct, that i need to write again, that wall compatible with oem rear seats?

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by Slonik View Post

                Does i'm understand correct, that i need to write again, that wall compatible with oem rear seats?
                No need to write it again

                Click image for larger version

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                Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                  I just want to make sure that I'm at a point where the difference will actually be tangible.
                  If you drive your car at all, anywhere, you’re probably at that point.

                  Can’t say for sure but it seems like a safe bet.
                  2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
                  Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL

                  2012 Mazda5 6MT
                  Koni Special Active, Volvo parts

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by IamFODI View Post
                    If you drive your car at all, anywhere, you’re probably at that point.

                    Can’t say for sure but it seems like a safe bet.
                    Yeah, you might be right.

                    Point is, I think it'll be more enjoyable to learn the car as is, then mod it and re-learn it. That way, I'll get to work my way up multiple learnings curves, instead of just one.

                    But don't worry, I'll install it eventually and post my thoughts here —which will be more valuable, as I'll be a better driver then (hopefully).


                    All this talk about the piece also made me start thinking about how to install it. Slonik any recommendations?

                    I was thinking of using the same structural adhesive recommended for the VinceBar (Araldite 2014) and potentially some rivets, so that the adhesive reaches it's optimal thickness. However, I'm worried about cracking the carbon with the rivets. Maybe it's a better idea to brace the piece in with some wood while the adhesive cures?
                    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                      Yeah, you might be right.

                      Point is, I think it'll be more enjoyable to learn the car as is, then mod it and re-learn it. That way, I'll get to work my way up multiple learnings curves, instead of just one.

                      But don't worry, I'll install it eventually and post my thoughts here —which will be more valuable, as I'll be a better driver then (hopefully).


                      All this talk about the piece also made me start thinking about how to install it. Slonik any recommendations?

                      I was thinking of using the same structural adhesive recommended for the VinceBar (Araldite 2014) and potentially some rivets, so that the adhesive reaches it's optimal thickness. However, I'm worried about cracking the carbon with the rivets. Maybe it's a better idea to brace the piece in with some wood while the adhesive cures?
                      looks like you can use araldite 2014.
                      main issues with recommendations, that we are locates on different sides of the earth, and we have different brands and products on the market. even the same brands, which presented on both continents, sometimes offer one product to one side only.

                      what we have on both markets - oem structural glue for carbon roof (sikaforce 7888). we don't use it often, due to the price and sometimes expired dates , but if you have it with normal valid dates, its good enough.


                      i think that moment is very important: you need to be attention and check valid dates. all those glues sometimes have expired dates, so check it before use.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        However, I'm worried about cracking the carbon with the rivets. Maybe it's a better idea to brace the piece in with some wood while the adhesive cures?
                        we don't use rivets on the wall (glued area large enough, so it make no sense). anyway, carbon will not crack, but you will probably get some pits on the surface around rivets. to make it with some good result (without pits), you need to wait some time, and press rivets when glue will be cured finally (next day for example).
                        by the way - check tds for the glue you choose, cause for example, we are using teroson ep5055 and you can use some cheating with a heat gun, not to wait one day, and get it cured in an hour or two.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Great! Appreciate the input. Sounds like bracing it in place is the way to go.
                          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                            Great! Appreciate the input. Sounds like bracing it in place is the way to go.
                            You need to pay some attention for glueing surface preparation - thoroughly sand it (240-320 grit), better till factory primer. if you will sand it somewhere up to bare metal- its okay, cause epoxy will protect metal from corrosion. thoroughly degrease surface before applying glue.
                            its a simple things, but bonding quality depends from them a lot.

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                              #44
                              more pics:
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                              Carbon fiber wall on this silver chassis installed for the tests as raw, without any matte lacquer, right we get it from the mold.
                              So, retail walls finishing differs from the wall on this pics.



                              Attached Files

                              Comment


                                #45
                                So factory M3 has 18,500 nm/°
                                With $1,400 carbon fiber panel glued in along with solid aluminum bushings you measured 18,660 nm/°.
                                Got it. 😉
                                6MT SLICKTOP - OE CSL Wheels - OE CSL Brakes - CSL Rack - CSL Trunk - CSL Diffuser - AA Tune - AA Pulleys- AS 40% SSK - 4.10 Motorsport Diff - Bilstein PSS9s - H&R Swaybars - CSL Lip - Gruppe M CF Intake - Supersprint - M Track Mode

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