Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rear Upper/Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rear Upper/Lower Ball Joint Replacement

    Quick question. Has anyone done replacement of the upper and lower outer ball joints on the rear trailing arm? Do they only come out one way?

    Trying to bend the dust shield out of the way but can't seem to get enough clearance for the tool to push the bushing towards the front of the car. Other E46 references seem to imply that the trailing arm is chamfered so its only possible to remove it one way. Any advice appreciated.

    #2
    Nevermind. Just tried pushing the ball joint out from front to rear and it came out. In case anyone ever needs to do this I highly recommend the PMD tool. Now just need to wait for the new ones to get nice and cold in the freezer!


    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by eacmen View Post
      Nevermind. Just tried pushing the ball joint out from front to rear and it came out. In case anyone ever needs to do this I highly recommend the PMD tool. Now just need to wait for the new ones to get nice and cold in the freezer!

      +1 I used the same exact tool on mine, except it was branded as the Bavarian Autosports "Trailing Arm Bushing Tool - Master Set #B8800100". Worked like a champ. Bav Auto's "special" tools are often just white labeled, as far as I can tell.

      Also for those interested, here is the orientation I used to pull the ball joints.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200404_135952.jpg
Views:	947
Size:	174.8 KB
ID:	140581
      Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue

      Comment


        #4
        It is a decent kit.
        I used it for the same job, plus I used other cups in it to R nR the rtabs on my E30 M3.

        Comment


          #5
          Yeah i’m surprised people don’t talk about replacing these more often. Only reason i’m doing it is I had to pull the GC lower control arm to replace the inner bearing and found that the outer ball joints were very loose. The rubber looked intact but they just did not seem as tight as they should be.

          Comment


            #6
            I replaced all ball joints, bushings (and I do mean all), mounts, FCA, and inner/outer tie rods shortly after I bought my car. Transformative to say the least and being a southern car everything was super easy.
            3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by eacmen View Post
              Nevermind. Just tried pushing the ball joint out from front to rear and it came out. In case anyone ever needs to do this I highly recommend the PMD tool. Now just need to wait for the new ones to get nice and cold in the freezer!

              You can also make your own from old sockets and a threaded rod. the old M3F I remember making a DIY for one. It wasn't too diffcult (im sure everyone has old sockets laying around)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Tonggi View Post

                You can also make your own from old sockets and a threaded rod. the old M3F I remember making a DIY for one. It wasn't too diffcult (im sure everyone has old sockets laying around)
                I tried doing this:



                the 46mm works well to receive the ball joint. However all the sockets i tried would damage the rubber boot. Between the threaded rod and sockets you end up spending almost the same.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                  I tried doing this:



                  the 46mm works well to receive the ball joint. However all the sockets i tried would damage the rubber boot. Between the threaded rod and sockets you end up spending almost the same.
                  perfect, exactly what I did back in the day.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I had a seized ball joint when I bought the car...it happens.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I changed mine with my rear end refresh. I just used a generic kit from harbor freight and I would actually consider these the easiest part of everything. They popped right out and the new ones went right in.
                      This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                      https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                      "Do it right once or do it twice"

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X