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Rear Upper/Lower Ball Joint Replacement

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    #31
    Is this cheating? lol https://youtube.com/shorts/1gKEkC7Qv...fvMNuMdNSkZ0Qs

    IMO its more work up front, but easier work once you get there. Pull the parking brake shoes and unbolt the dust shield, gives you a ton more access to the area around the ball joints.

    You CAN get the UCA bolts out with the diff in but you have to unbolt it. At that point its not a "ton" more work to get the diff out. If you go back together with bushings then those need to be tightened at ride height. So I'll measure the ride height before I disassemble replace the arms and then jack that corner up until I simulate ride height and then tighten the inner control arm bolts, super easy with the diff out of the car.
    '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
    Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
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      #32
      Is it possible to replace these without dropping subframe?

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        #33
        Originally posted by 4getr34 View Post
        Is it possible to replace these without dropping subframe?
        Why would you?

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          #34
          Originally posted by 4getr34 View Post
          Is it possible to replace these without dropping subframe?
          I did it without dropping subframe. So its possible. But dropping subframe would be easier.

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            #35
            I'm trying to plan what to work on. replace as many bushings without subframe drop. if I drop it, then i might as well redo diff seals, mounts, more reinforcements. That would be a much more involved job.

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              #36
              I just did it without dropping subframe, would not advise to do it that way.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                #37
                Originally posted by 4getr34 View Post
                I'm trying to plan what to work on. replace as many bushings without subframe drop. if I drop it, then i might as well redo diff seals, mounts, more reinforcements. That would be a much more involved job.
                Why do you need to replace the balljoints? Unless they're tore up I would leave them till doing a complete rear end overhaul
                🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
                Build thread: link

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

                  Why do you need to replace the balljoints? Unless they're tore up I would leave them till doing a complete rear end overhaul
                  Thats probably what I will end up doing as it sounds like its not recommended. I'll just do RTABs for now

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                    #39
                    I understand your point, bavarian3. Mine is in the shop now getting the rear subframe(RACP) reinforcement plates welded in and new subframe bushing as well as diff bushings, seals, and guibo. I had the RTABs replaced in 2014, so they are the newest bushings in the rear. Currently, the shop doesn't plan on replacing any of the rear balljoints unless they see they are deteriorated/FUBAR. I'm thinking the car is 21 yrs old with 117k miles all here in central Florida, why wouldn't we replace them for a complete rear end refresh? Does it make sense to leave them in and possibly have to do them at a future date, 2, 3, or more yrs down the road and have to pay to drop the subframe again?
                    /// 2005 Silbergrau M3 · Coupe · 6spd · ZPP · Eibach Pro Street S Coilovers · Sportline CS16 CSL Replica Wheels · PS4S 245/275

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                      #40
                      Mine looked fine at 118k when I replaced them, however, they had noticeable play once removed. I'd 💯 suggest replacing them with the subframe removed, no better time.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by ramzM3 View Post
                        I understand your point, bavarian3. Mine is in the shop now getting the rear subframe(RACP) reinforcement plates welded in and new subframe bushing as well as diff bushings, seals, and guibo. I had the RTABs replaced in 2014, so they are the newest bushings in the rear. Currently, the shop doesn't plan on replacing any of the rear balljoints unless they see they are deteriorated/FUBAR. I'm thinking the car is 21 yrs old with 117k miles all here in central Florida, why wouldn't we replace them for a complete rear end refresh? Does it make sense to leave them in and possibly have to do them at a future date, 2, 3, or more yrs down the road and have to pay to drop the subframe again?
                        That would seem silly not to with the rear-end out.

                        Hopefully can fold in the labor as a while you're in there job. They're quite easy to do with the right tools. Can see references to this bushing and more in my journal : Click image for larger version

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                        🔹 2001 M3 Laguna Seca Blue
                        Build thread: link

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                          #42
                          great tips. thanks guys

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

                            That would seem silly not to with the rear-end out.

                            Hopefully can fold in the labor as a while you're in there job. They're quite easy to do with the right tools. Can see references to this bushing and more in my journal : Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	19 Size:	690.2 KB ID:	346233
                            Agreed...I'll be calling them today to get things taken care of. Thanks!
                            /// 2005 Silbergrau M3 · Coupe · 6spd · ZPP · Eibach Pro Street S Coilovers · Sportline CS16 CSL Replica Wheels · PS4S 245/275

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