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Timing/Vanos related codes? unable to find source of the issue P0015,P0010, P0185

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    #16
    Originally posted by M3llowM3 View Post

    It's something I will ask Hassan, thank you

    Edit:

    Confirmed with Hassan, he is fairly certain my codes are not related to the cam offsets in the remap. And considering the cam sensor and solenoid were done with no change, I think it suggests a mechanical timing issue and should be inspected/diagnosed/retimed?
    Download this (free) tool and with a KDCAN cable you can see your cam adaptations among other items if that would be of any help.
    That could help shed some light on timing.

    //www.ecuworx.co.uk/downloads/

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screenshot_20211221-094857_Chrome.jpg Views:	0 Size:	52.4 KB ID:	144939
    Last edited by Cubieman; 12-21-2021, 08:03 AM.
    2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
    Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
    Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

    OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
    RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

    2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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      #17
      Had mine completely rebuilt over the summer and also had timing issues. The shop swapped out the disk, the hub, put in another new set of seals, coil pack, cam sensor, pretty much threw everything at it. They even swapped the owners Vanos unit into the car while troubleshooting. If memory serves me correctly it was throwing the P0185 code, and the car was really down on power. The issue resolved once they replaced the diaphragm springs(11367830684) and it's been running great since.

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        #18
        Originally posted by ELEM3NT View Post
        Had mine completely rebuilt over the summer and also had timing issues. The shop swapped out the disk, the hub, put in another new set of seals, coil pack, cam sensor, pretty much threw everything at it. They even swapped the owners Vanos unit into the car while troubleshooting. If memory serves me correctly it was throwing the P0185 code, and the car was really down on power. The issue resolved once they replaced the diaphragm springs(11367830684) and it's been running great since.
        ill keep this in mind and mention it when its at the shop this spring. thanks

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          #19
          Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

          Download this (free) tool and with a KDCAN cable you can see your cam adaptations among other items if that would be of any help.
          That could help shed some light on timing.

          //www.ecuworx.co.uk/downloads/

          Click image for larger version Name:	Screenshot_20211221-094857_Chrome.jpg Views:	0 Size:	52.4 KB ID:	144939
          I started the car and connected the ecuworx dme utility. not exactly sure what values I am looking for so I read adaptations, read and cleared faults and posted screens of what I saw. When I cleared the codes, 10 comes instantly, followed by 15 within 10 or so seconds, and then code 185 will come after a few minutes of idling.

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            #20
            Originally posted by M3llowM3 View Post
            I started the car and connected the ecuworx dme utility. not exactly sure what values I am looking for so I read adaptations, read and cleared faults and posted screens of what I saw. When I cleared the codes, 10 comes instantly, followed by 15 within 10 or so seconds, and then code 185 will come after a few minutes of idling.
            Did you reset the adaptations? You shouldn't have 0's across the ign. timing unless you engine is one a million, same goes with vanos adaptations.
            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
            Instagram

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              #21
              Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

              Did you reset the adaptations? You shouldn't have 0's across the ign. timing unless you engine is one a million, same goes with vanos adaptations.
              I had previously reset my adaptations when clearing codes and stuff after trying the beisan solenoid. car hasn't run long or really moved and the weather doesn't permit me to drive it until spring

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                #22
                Originally posted by Cubieman View Post

                You shouldn't have 0's across the ign. timing unless you engine is one a million, same goes with vanos adaptations.
                🙋‍♂️

                DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by M3llowM3 View Post
                  I started the car and connected the ecuworx dme utility. not exactly sure what values I am looking for so I read adaptations, read and cleared faults and posted screens of what I saw. When I cleared the codes, 10 comes instantly, followed by 15 within 10 or so seconds, and then code 185 will come after a few minutes of idling.
                  Based on your codes your VANOS is failing to advance the timing on the exhaust side. either you have a clogged valve body or a bad solenoid pack. Let it run, or drive it, so you can see adaptations values to confirm your timing is not off and discard mechanical issues as in a wrongly timed engine. It does not seem you can run VANOS test, which would be ideal.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by maupineda View Post

                    Based on your codes your VANOS is failing to advance the timing on the exhaust side. either you have a clogged valve body or a bad solenoid pack. Let it run, or drive it, so you can see adaptations values to confirm your timing is not off and discard mechanical issues as in a wrongly timed engine. It does not seem you can run VANOS test, which would be ideal.
                    i switch out my solenoid pack with a second hand beisan unit (which also could be defective?), and i cleaned the valve body when i removed the old one. best i can do is to in regards to the adaptations would be let it idle in my garage and see what it does. Do you know how long the car should be left on for this? also what would be required for the vanos test? I've seen it spoken of but I've never looked into it

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

                      🙋‍♂️
                      Ha, that's right, you've got the double-O vanos adaptions, lucky
                      2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                      Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                      Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                      OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                      RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                      2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                      Instagram

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                        #26
                        so i've just had something change. I warmed the car up for about 10-15 minutes in the garage to get to temp. over the warm up time I was inside the house, but heard it drop revs/misifire to the point of almost stalling twice, but it recovered. I got in the car, hooked up my computer and was gonna get read to vary revs up to about 6k, but the car stalled out without me even touching anything.I started it back up and revd out a few times. I checked the signal in inpa on cam sensor1 again (which was staying at 0, with no change with my old sensor, and with the new sensor installed) and I saw it fluctuating like crazy, in a way that I suspect is not normal, and I'm not quite sure what to make of this. i also noted that in the warmup time and rev range variation my adaptations were all still at 0 after, it must need to be actually driven or idled much longer to set them I guess?

                        edit:
                        I also noticed that the codes came back in different orders after I revd the car a bunch. 185 and 15 came instantly, then 10 came several seconds after. not sure what any of this means, just documenting it
                        Last edited by M3llowM3; 12-21-2021, 10:28 AM.

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                          #27
                          I have made another observation. After the car cooled off a bit I decided to try the old sensor this this new one looked so wonky. installed the old sensor and it was still flatline zero. okay cool, reinstalled the new sensor again to observe the wonky readings...and it showed 0. I have no idea what is going on here.

                          Now, I think the sensor goes from flatline to all over the place after the 185 code gets triggered, and after revving it. Before I rev'd I cleared codes and saw 10 and 15 come back instantly, and the sensor was still showing 0 in INPA. I waited in the car for a little bit and felt a slight misfire but and it was at that time 185 came up and the sensor came to life with readings all over the place., and after revving the cars feels like it wants to stall out when it returns to idle. rev'd it about 3 or 4 times and it actually stalled out once when returning to idle. i will today or tomorrow put the old sensor BACK in and run the car for some time again and see if a misfire triggers code 185 and brings the sensor back to life.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by M3llowM3 View Post
                            I tested my old sensor out of the car following the procedure at the pelican page I posted here. I stuck a jumper wire into the pin 2 , and connected the old sensor out of the car. Reads 5v normal and 108mv when I touch a wrench to the tip. Is this normal behavior? If this is to be expected then does this rule out the camshaft sensor? Reminder that this test was done on the sensor I pulled from the car because I thought it was bad in the first place.
                            The best way to do is to prove the installed sensor working, not the one that not on the car. The signal requires two parts: sensor and sensor wheel working together, not a screwdriver touching a sensor outside engine. Just turn the crank and measure signal pin2 and move forward from this sensor question.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by sapote View Post

                              The best way to do is to prove the installed sensor working, not the one that not on the car. The signal requires two parts: sensor and sensor wheel working together, not a screwdriver touching a sensor outside engine. Just turn the crank and measure signal pin2 and move forward from this sensor question.
                              Will go out and get an appropriate sized socket tomorrow for this. Anyone have thoughts on the wonky cam sensor readings occurring only after code 185 has been triggered?

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by M3llowM3 View Post

                                Will go out and get an appropriate sized socket tomorrow for this. Anyone have thoughts on the wonky cam sensor readings occurring only after code 185 has been triggered?
                                Socket for crank pulley? I can understand why P185 related with cam sensor codes.

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