Timing chain tensioner seal replacement

[g00b86]

Hello all,

In the process of fixing an oil leak that appears to have originated from my timing chain tensioner seal. I purchased a new tensioner and seal, as well as the only 32 mm socket I could find that clears the end of the tensioner and has enough depth to reach the hex. I tried 2 different shallow and thin walled sockets prior to this and neither could clear the end of the tensioner and reach the hex.

I’ve read over the Bessian guide that shows them removing the tensioner several time. How the hell do they get a 1/2 drive ratchet in there?! I’ve been fighting mine with thin head, angle head, 3/8 with adapters… nothing clears the AC line in any way. There isn’t enough room for an extension or a strap wrench either.

I’ve searched every s54 forum - tons of m54 content which is a piece of cake compared to this job that at first glance shouldn’t take more than 30 min. I’ve got about 2 hours of cleaning and cursing at this damn thing and still no success. Many people reference the seal replacement but no actual DIY exists that I could find..

Any insight is greatly appreciated guys!

[tcp]

Funny, I just changed my timing chain tensioner today.

I used a 32mm Husky deep socket I picked up from Home Depot and a "Square Drive Socket Cap" I picked up from Harbor Freight.

It's tight, but you can fit a wrench on the socket cap and get the tensioner in or out. Just note that you really can only use this for breaking the tensioner loose and tightening it. Once the tensioner is loose, you'll need to pull the socket off since there isn't enough room to back the tensioner all the way out with a wrench on the socket.



P.S. The socket cap + deep well socket approach is mentioned in the S54 VANOS thread here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-info-thread

[sapote]

Funny, I just changed my timing chain tensioner today.

I used a 32mm Husky deep socket

With limited space why use a deep socket?
I used the normal socket and a normal ratchet wrench with no problem of clearance.

[sapote]

.
I’ve read over the Bessian guide that shows them removing the tensioner several time. How the hell do they get a 1/2 drive ratchet in there?!
!

Can you use a large Crescent Wrench instead? It is a crushed washer for sealing.

[sapote]

I just went out to check. No, Crescent wrench wont fit in the tight space.
I used 1/2" socket and a swivel ratchet wrench. A fix 90* wrench might not work.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-7...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[tcp]

With limited space why use a deep socket?

It's the only 32mm socket I have and it worked. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[cobra]

I recall using a ratchet and a swivel, worked fine. It's definitely weird but not impossible.

On the toughest to reach bolts, I usually go for a breaker bar because it can bend a little past 90 degrees and has a shorter stack height than a ratchet.

[Cubieman]

I used an angle grinder on a deep socket just for this job, I guess it's a medium length socket now. Works well in conjunction with those socket caps but I still can't quite get a torque wrench in there so I just feel it out.

[sapote]

but I still can't quite get a torque wrench in there so I just feel it out.

Same here. The problem is that if overtorque this could strip the soft female threads then super headache, and if under torqued then the washer might leak. To minimize leak, I will coat the washer with some Permatex gasket sealant next time.

[Arith2]

I have the exact same socket. It was the fourth one I bought. I have a lot of 32mm sockets. It still involved pushing up against the A/C line pretty hard and it wasn't easy. That insert is almost essential with an open ended torque wrench.

[Casa de Mesa]

My motor is currently out of the car. Is this something that should be done because it's $1.29 and"might as well"? And is this as simple as just backing out the tensioner and replacing the washer/gasket, and torquing to spec?

Last question

Should the tensioner be replaced too?

[heinzboehmer]

My motor is currently out of the car. Is this something that should be done because it's $1.29 and"might as well"? And is this as simple as just backing out the tensioner and replacing the washer/gasket, and torquing to spec?

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.

Should the tensioner be replaced too?

Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

[sapote]

My motor is currently out of the car. Is this something that should be done because it's $1.29 and"might as well"

I don't see any oil leak from it, so replacing the washer gains you nothing but it might leak with the new one, just by Murphy's Law.

[Casa de Mesa]

I don't see any oil leak from it, so replacing the washer gains you nothing but it might leak with the new one, just by Murphy's Law.

This is what I decided to do actually. It's fine at the moment and not leaking so...

[Casa de Mesa]

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.



Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

Thanks for this. Saved this for future reference!