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Timing chain tensioner seal replacement

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    #16
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.



    Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

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    Never seen this before, is it a necessary step, and why so if anyone has that information?
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      #17
      Originally posted by tcp View Post
      Funny, I just changed my timing chain tensioner today.

      I used a 32mm Husky deep socket I picked up from Home Depot and a "Square Drive Socket Cap" I picked up from Harbor Freight.

      It's tight, but you can fit a wrench on the socket cap and get the tensioner in or out. Just note that you really can only use this for breaking the tensioner loose and tightening it. Once the tensioner is loose, you'll need to pull the socket off since there isn't enough room to back the tensioner all the way out with a wrench on the socket.

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      P.S. The socket cap + deep well socket approach is mentioned in the S54 VANOS thread here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-info-thread
      Do you access to the timing chain tensioner from top of the car ?

      and remove the shroud to access it?

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        #18
        Originally posted by y2k_o__o View Post

        Do you access to the timing chain tensioner from top of the car ?

        and remove the shroud to access it?
        Yes. That socket setup will work, or if you have a fancy 3/8ths techangle, you can torque it to spec.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Slideways View Post

          Yes. That socket setup will work, or if you have a fancy 3/8ths techangle, you can torque it to spec.
          Sorry, was access from the top or bottom of the engine?

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            #20
            Originally posted by ac427 View Post

            Sorry, was access from the top or bottom of the engine?
            Top after removing the shroud

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              #21
              Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
              I have the exact same socket. It was the fourth one I bought. I have a lot of 32mm sockets. It still involved pushing up against the A/C line pretty hard and it wasn't easy. That insert is almost essential with an open ended torque wrench.
              Would you please measure the overall length of your 32mm socket that worked for you?

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                #22
                Originally posted by y2k_o__o View Post
                Would you please measure the overall length of your 32mm socket that worked for you?
                That Husky socket is ~3.05 inches or ~77.5 mm deep according to my micrometer. A stubbier one would definitely give you more room. That one just barely fits and you're certainly not getting a torque wrench on it.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by tcp View Post

                  That Husky socket is ~3.05 inches or ~77.5 mm deep according to my micrometer. A stubbier one would definitely give you more room. That one just barely fits and you're certainly not getting a torque wrench on it.
                  Standard tq wrenches won't really fit, but the flex head of the techangle will let you torque it down with an adapter and normal length 1/2" socket. Doing it by feel also works.

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                    #24
                    I torqued to 70NM, on my platform there is a bit more space, yet it could still have some siping, so I put thread sealant, and done! Dry as a bone.

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