Timing chain tensioner seal replacement

[Sid_E46]

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.



Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

Never seen this before, is it a necessary step, and why so if anyone has that information?

[y2k_o__o]

Funny, I just changed my timing chain tensioner today.

I used a 32mm Husky deep socket I picked up from Home Depot and a "Square Drive Socket Cap" I picked up from Harbor Freight.

It's tight, but you can fit a wrench on the socket cap and get the tensioner in or out. Just note that you really can only use this for breaking the tensioner loose and tightening it. Once the tensioner is loose, you'll need to pull the socket off since there isn't enough room to back the tensioner all the way out with a wrench on the socket.



P.S. The socket cap + deep well socket approach is mentioned in the S54 VANOS thread here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-info-thread

Do you access to the timing chain tensioner from top of the car ?

and remove the shroud to access it?

[Slideways]

Do you access to the timing chain tensioner from top of the car ?

and remove the shroud to access it?

Yes. That socket setup will work, or if you have a fancy 3/8ths techangle, you can torque it to spec.

[ac427]

Yes. That socket setup will work, or if you have a fancy 3/8ths techangle, you can torque it to spec.

Sorry, was access from the top or bottom of the engine?

[Slideways]

Sorry, was access from the top or bottom of the engine?

Top after removing the shroud

[y2k_o__o]

I have the exact same socket. It was the fourth one I bought. I have a lot of 32mm sockets. It still involved pushing up against the A/C line pretty hard and it wasn't easy. That insert is almost essential with an open ended torque wrench.

Would you please measure the overall length of your 32mm socket that worked for you?

[tcp]

Would you please measure the overall length of your 32mm socket that worked for you?

That Husky socket is ~3.05 inches or ~77.5 mm deep according to my micrometer. A stubbier one would definitely give you more room. That one just barely fits and you're certainly not getting a torque wrench on it.

[Slideways]

That Husky socket is ~3.05 inches or ~77.5 mm deep according to my micrometer. A stubbier one would definitely give you more room. That one just barely fits and you're certainly not getting a torque wrench on it.

Standard tq wrenches won't really fit, but the flex head of the techangle will let you torque it down with an adapter and normal length 1/2" socket. Doing it by feel also works.

[maupineda]

I torqued to 70NM, on my platform there is a bit more space, yet it could still have some siping, so I put thread sealant, and done! Dry as a bone.

[BL92]

I torqued to 70NM, on my platform there is a bit more space, yet it could still have some siping, so I put thread sealant, and done! Dry as a bone.

What's the go with that man? How come? Cause i replaced the crush washer and just noticed it's leaking again as well?, Took it out and inspected, Cleaned, Pumped the oil out couldn't see any issues? Unless i missed something? It's a bit varnished ? I Torqued to 70nm, Started the car and I watched the tensioner with an inspection mirror as it developed an oil drop from the bottom of the tensioner within 5 minutes.? Should i just order another 1?

What thread sealant did you go with? Cure time?



( Just to add I just had the solenoid pack off, AC unbolted and moved to the side, AC pulley and bracket off, brake cleaned etc, 100% all clean and dry above and around the entire area now to rule out any possibilities )

[maupineda]

What's the go with that man? How come? Cause i replaced my gasket O'Ring and just noticed it's leaking again as well?, Took it out and inspected, Cleaned, Pumped the oil out couldn't see any issues? Unless i missed something? It's a bit varnished ? I Torqued to 70nm, Started the car and I watched the tensioner with an inspection mirror as it developed an oil drop from the bottom of the tensioner within 5 minutes.? Should i just order another 1?

What thread sealant did you go with? Cure time?



( Just to add I just had the solenoid pack off, AC unbolted and moved to the side, AC pulley and bracket off, brake cleaned etc, 100% all clean and dry above and around the entire area now to rule out any possibilities )

Make sure you replace the crush washer. Thread sealer takes 24hrs to cure. I used permatex.

[BL92]

Cool, Thank you for responding

This will be the 3rd crush washer now, I just used a caliper, and the Elring Crush washer that was supplied in my head gasket kit is 1mm thinner ?? This crush washer leaks as well

I will try thread sealant and a new OE washer from BMW

[sapote]

Cause i replaced my gasket O'Ring and just noticed it's leaking again as well?

It's a crushed washer, not gasket nor o-ring.

[BL92]

No dice

Used the thread sealer and it's still leaking, I might replace it, obviously some thing wrong, can't take pics of the CT removed until the engine cools down, maybe you guys can see if i am missing something

maybe the wobble bar is throwing off the 70nm

[maupineda]

I had the same issue twice. And only until I used a new crush washer and sealant it stopped. That joint is very stubborn. I can tell you this. By mistake I set the wrench to 70ftlb and immediately cramped out!!! I then undid it and check threads and redid the job with a new seal and went to 70nm with sealant and all was good

so the joint seems to be strong enojos for some more torque, typically up to 10% should be fine. So try again and do 70, test, with a heat cycle the washer would crush more and re torque to 70 and drive again, if not ok, go to 75.

if you want to try the stepped process do not use thread sealer as that will throw the torque out. Try dry.

if tha above does not work I would not go past 80 and will just live with it. Is it too bad or just a sip? Make sure you clean the threads with a lint free cloth and remove old sealer you may have used. You may need to use break cleaner but you are up for an oil change.