Rod bearings

[heinzboehmer]

Also lying on your back trying to torque the rod bearing bolts and the reinforcement plate when you are done is just to difficult with the smaller 3\8" wrench.

A longer 1/2" wrench requires less strength on your part to torque down the bolts, but the fact that's it's longer does make it more annoying. I had to sweep out the trajectory for each bolt beforehand to make sure I could do the angles in one sweep. Had to reposition myself a couple times to make sure I wouldn't hit anything. Oh and I have a prefacelift car with the simpler torque sequence, can only imagine how much more frustrating this would have been with the other torque sequence.

[mrgizmo04]

[QUOTE=heinzboehmer;n21840]

Also lying on your back trying to torque the rod bearing bolts and the reinforcement plate when you are done is just to difficult with the smaller 3\8" wrench./QUOTE]

A longer 1/2" wrench requires less strength on your part to torque down the bolts, but the fact that's it's longer does make it more annoying. I had to sweep out the trajectory for each bolt beforehand to make sure I could do the angles in one sweep. Had to reposition myself a couple times to make sure I wouldn't hit anything. Oh and I have a prefacelift car with the simpler torque sequence, can only imagine how much more frustrating this would have been with the other torque sequence.

Yep, the downside of a larger wrench with limited space

[gbagby20]

I haven't read Bimmerfan08s DIY but all in all its not a crazy difficult job. The torque sequence is a massive pain in the ass though, especially for later year cars where its 105 degrees instead of 70. And keep the oil pan center cover off the oil pan when reinstalling or you'll never get it on. Completely dropping the front subframe will also make this job so much easier. If you dont drop the whole subframe, and opt to just let it hang, remove the FCAB bolts on both sides so you can swing the subframe front to back when you need to. Just take your time, and take the torque sequence very seriously.

Hey, I'm planning to do my bearings soon, 100K on my new used 04 M3. Too scared to drive the damn thing. AND the Vanos must be done too I guess. The subframe will have to wait. I need to check the Cam bolts/take out and loctite them, exhaust hub tabs, and do everything the Beisan website recommends? Seals, rebuilt solenoid, etc.
You mentioned that, "dropping the front subframe" will make the job much easier. Is there a DIY for that anywhere here or otherwise?

I bought the digital torque wrench and engine support bar at Harbor Freight like you suggested.

[mrgizmo04]

Hey, I'm planning to do my bearings soon, 100K on my new used 04 M3. Too scared to drive the damn thing. AND the Vanos must be done too I guess. The subframe will have to wait. I need to check the Cam bolts/take out and loctite them, exhaust hub tabs, and do everything the Beisan website recommends? Seals, rebuilt solenoid, etc.
You mentioned that, "dropping the front subframe" will make the job much easier. Is there a DIY for that anywhere here or otherwise?

I bought the digital torque wrench and engine support bar at Harbor Freight like you suggested.

On the S54, you have to drop (or at least lower) the subframe to do bearings, otherwise you don't have enough room to remove the oil pan.

There is an aggregated diy thread with a few rod bearing diys to follow, you can find them under the "Engine" section https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...2006/2747-diys

[gbagby20]

Thanks, I've read the diy on here from bimmerfan08. Guess that's the one to use? Just thought there might be a few easier steps. Like not having to separate whatever steering component that was he needed the special tool for.
I looked at Harbor Freight, but couldn't find the tool. But then, I was looking at so many things needed for the project/job. Got a 2.5 ton alum. floor jack, 3-ton alum. jack stands, 3/8" digital torque with angle wrench, and the engine support bar. Still deciding if it's still cheaper if I have to buy all these tools to do the job vs. paying an Indy to do the work?
I still have the Vanos to deal with, as well as the plates and subframe at some point. I just want to be able to drive my car without fear of catastrophic damage happening. At...100k miles?

[mrgizmo04]

Thanks, I've read the diy on here from bimmerfan08. Guess that's the one to use? Just thought there might be a few easier steps. Like not having to separate whatever steering component that was he needed the special tool for.
I looked at Harbor Freight, but couldn't find the tool. But then, I was looking at so many things needed for the project/job. Got a 2.5 ton alum. floor jack, 3-ton alum. jack stands, 3/8" digital torque with angle wrench, and the engine support bar. Still deciding if it's still cheaper if I have to buy all these tools to do the job vs. paying an Indy to do the work?
I still have the Vanos to deal with, as well as the plates and subframe at some point. I just want to be able to drive my car without fear of catastrophic damage happening. At...100k miles?

Sorry, I dont remember a special tool needed or what he used.

Yeah, gotta pay to play with these cars. I hear you just wanting to drive, so it'll be tough to have it on jackstands for a while until these areas are taken care of.

[COVID-19]

Thanks, I've read the diy on here from bimmerfan08. Guess that's the one to use? Just thought there might be a few easier steps. Like not having to separate whatever steering component that was he needed the special tool for.
I looked at Harbor Freight, but couldn't find the tool. But then, I was looking at so many things needed for the project/job. Got a 2.5 ton alum. floor jack, 3-ton alum. jack stands, 3/8" digital torque with angle wrench, and the engine support bar. Still deciding if it's still cheaper if I have to buy all these tools to do the job vs. paying an Indy to do the work?
I still have the Vanos to deal with, as well as the plates and subframe at some point. I just want to be able to drive my car without fear of catastrophic damage happening. At...100k miles?

This tool? Is pretty easy to use. Just don’t remove the nuts all the way. (Leave nut flush with threads)
I think there is a 20% off single item floating around. (I might have it in my computer) I went 3 different times to purchase the 3 things I needed with the same coupon.

[mrgizmo04]

Oh, ball joint separator, you can borrow that from like O'Reilly's if you dont want to buy one just for one job.

[Titaniu//M]

Just a PSA for those of you following SYT Shadow's DIY. For the most part, it is good, but I would not follow his instructions to use RTV on both sides of the oil pan gasket. I just did my oil pan gasket recently (skipped rod bearings because of low mileage and clean Blackstone reports), and had to redo it because the new gasket still leaked. I talked to a couple BMW techs and they attributed this to putting RTV on both sides. The second time around, I used OEM Drei Bond 1209 and only put a small dab where the timing cover and rear crankshaft cover mate with the block.

Also, make sure your FCABs are fully seated before you attempt to thread the bolts in when reattaching your subframe. Do not use the bolts to guide the FCABs into place. Multiple cases of people cross threading the frame of the car by doing this (including myself).

[gbagby20]

Man, you guys are great, with all of your input, pictures, and own experiences! Makes me apprehensive about doing the jobs, lol. Where you mention your own mistakes. Wish there was someone in my area to um...supervise/help me with both jobs honestly. Oh, and let's not forget the valve adjustment. Which needs shim kit and special tools too, right?
The cam bar tool and crankshaft pin? For timing? And..and...wow, head is spinning with detail of um, three jobs at once. Getting parts and tools needed confused.
If I replace the upper timing chain guide/tensioner (the one whose lower portion breaks off), while doing the vanos seal kit/solenoid, and exhaust hub and/or oil pump disc replacement, and pulling bolts out and re-using them and putting blue loctite on them(which ones? the 6 in each intake/exhaust sprockets?) will I have to do the "timing" procedure? And also should I do the rattle fix? That adds more complexity and expense to the repair process. Is it just a noise issue or could damage be caused by the looseness? Sorry so many questions. But, this requires attention to detail, no?
And if I use the above tool(joint separator) will I have to get an alignment? Another cost?

[terra]

From what I’ve gathered is that ACL/King are pretty popular in Europe. Both are well known/recommended from different engine builders. Many E9x owners seemed to have moved to the ACLs since they are cheaper and believe they are following big companies since they are starting to sell them (Lang racing, ECS etc) I bought a set from Amazon a few months back and they were about $100 just bought them bc they are slightly starting to go up in price. (Will be installing maybe on the next oil change)

Also doesn't help that BE is constantly out of stock.

[mrgizmo04]

Man, you guys are great, with all of your input, pictures, and own experiences! Makes me apprehensive about doing the jobs, lol. Where you mention your own mistakes. Wish there was someone in my area to um...supervise/help me with both jobs honestly. Oh, and let's not forget the valve adjustment. Which needs shim kit and special tools too, right?
The cam bar tool and crankshaft pin? For timing? And..and...wow, head is spinning with detail of um, three jobs at once. Getting parts and tools needed confused.
If I replace the upper timing chain guide/tensioner (the one whose lower portion breaks off), while doing the vanos seal kit/solenoid, and exhaust hub and/or oil pump disc replacement, and pulling bolts out and re-using them and putting blue loctite on them(which ones? the 6 in each intake/exhaust sprockets?) will I have to do the "timing" procedure? And also should I do the rattle fix? That adds more complexity and expense to the repair process. Is it just a noise issue or could damage be caused by the looseness? Sorry so many questions. But, this requires attention to detail, no?
And if I use the above tool(joint separator) will I have to get an alignment? Another cost?

Please read the VANOS thread on this forum and the Beisan guide to understand what/why fails and needs to be replaced for the VANOS job. Hopefully that can stop your head spinning.

[Icecream]

Oh, ball joint separator, you can borrow that from like O'Reilly's if you dont want to buy one just for one job.

You dont need one. I took the subframe, steering out as a unit.
as for the comment on if there were "fewer" steps. No. Any shortcuts you have seen "like not dropping the subframe completely" will cost you more time and frustration and open you up to mistakes because of rushing and space constraints and rod bearings has zero room for mistakes.

[mrgizmo04]

You dont need one. I took the subframe, steering out as a unit.
as for the comment on if there were "fewer" steps. No. Any shortcuts you have seen "like not dropping the subframe completely" will cost you more time and frustration and open you up to mistakes because of rushing and space constraints and rod bearings has zero room for mistakes.

Yeah I didn't actually remove the front assembly entirely and didn't need the tool. I dropped the middle to give me enough space under the oilpan and supported the subframe with a jack while struts/knuckles were all still attached. He is trying to follow a specific diy, then it gets a bit hairy telling someone you can skip step 17, 84, etc.

[Robert's_BMW]

Does anyone measure their rod bearings and/or clearances before they put them in? I just got some ACL bearings and am about to tackle the job but I was just wondering if I should throw a micrometer on them and/or use some plastigauge to check the clearance. Although, I don't really have a reference for what the actual bearing clearance should be and/or what the thickness of the bearings should be. I found this from BE: http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index....4_Rod_Bearings