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    #16
    Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
    I will do the depin, get a new connector , solder and shrink wrap.. Anyone knows the part# for the solenoid pack torx bolts?
    They are not available separately, but Beisan should have extras. Hardware store or online should have something that fits; otherwise, Hack Engineering has these - https://www.hackengineering.co.uk/pr...ack-bolts-s54/

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      #17
      I read that soldering signal wires is not a good idea, also if it's in a hot engine bay. So I'm thinking to get bmw factory splice connector ans get some extra wire and do it that way.

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        #18
        If you're gonna run new wires, might as well replace them all and do the splice inside the injector harness plastic cylinder thing. Will look much cleaner and will be in an area that's much easier to work in.

        What's the argument behind "soldering signal wires is not a good idea"?
        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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          #19
          That's what I heard, I'm not sure why...yeah I will do it inside the plastic cylinder.

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            #20
            I gotta figure out what guage wire it is.

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              #21
              Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
              I gotta figure out what guage wire it is.
              0.5 mm2

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              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                #22
                Thanks

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                  That's what I heard, I'm not sure why...yeah I will do it inside the plastic cylinder.
                  As long as the soldered wire is not allowed to flex at the solder joint then it should be fine. So try to anchor the wire 0.5" or longer away from the solder joint -- it is called strain relief the wire.
                  Last edited by sapote; 05-28-2023, 03:16 PM.

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                    #24
                    I got the vanos out, tabs are intact.
                    Attached Files

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                      #25
                      Just finish the vanos install, cleared adaptations, car starts up and runs. But got a check engine light , P0012: Intake camshaft position timing over-retarded (Bank 1)...so I cleared the code , let the car run for about 10 mins. Rev it , its running smooth. Check engine light didn't come back on. I also did a valve adjustment as well. I didn't get to drive the car as yet, due to a flat, my rims is old and every time I jack up the front of the car and put the weight on the back. It breaks the bead seal and I have a leak around the rim.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                        Just finish the vanos install, cleared adaptations, car starts up and runs. But got a check engine light , P0012: Intake camshaft position timing over-retarded (Bank 1)...so I cleared the code , let the car run for about 10 mins. Rev it , its running smooth. Check engine light didn't come back on. I also did a valve adjustment as well. I didn't get to drive the car as yet, due to a flat, my rims is old and every time I jack up the front of the car and put the weight on the back. It breaks the bead seal and I have a leak around the rim.
                        Sounds like you fixed your issue, feels good. Now it's time fix your wheel or buy new ones.

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                          #27
                          Well im gonna drive it when i get a chance and really see how it feels. Yeah I need new wheels.

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                            #28
                            I finally got to drive the car, it pulls strong, I never felt it drive so powerful, and its running smooth,but I get code p0012 still, so maybe my timing off, anything else I should check? Also do I have to remove the vanos again, or just loosen the hub bolts, and when its says retard the cams, facing the car ,its turning the cam clock wise towards the driver side?
                            Last edited by M3powerzz; 06-07-2023, 02:17 PM.

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                              I finally got to drive the car, it pulls strong, I never felt it drive so powerful, and its running smooth,but I get code p0012 still, so maybe my timing off, anything else I should check? Also do I have to remove the vanos again, or just loosen the hub bolts, and when its says retard the cams, facing the car ,its turning the cam clock wise towards the driver side?
                              The intake cam timing was set too retard, so if you wanted to just twist the timing a little w/o removing any thing then here I would do:
                              1. turn the crank a few turns then set to TDC with Home cam lobes pointing to each.
                              2. Use a selected drill bit and insert it into the intake cam hole, then check the drill against a carpenter square, record the angle difference. It should be very close to zero when comparing to the square.
                              3. loosen the IN hub bolts and try to turn the IN cam CW 2 deg (front view) and tighten the hub bolts.
                              Repeat step 1 and 2 to verify you have advanced the cam a couple deg.


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                                #30
                                Originally posted by M3powerzz View Post
                                I finally got to drive the car, it pulls strong, I never felt it drive so powerful, and its running smooth,but I get code p0012 still, so maybe my timing off, anything else I should check? Also do I have to remove the vanos again, or just loosen the hub bolts, and when its says retard the cams, facing the car ,its turning the cam clock wise towards the driver side?
                                Before installing the VANOS unit, did you set both cams so the timing bridge pin slides through both intake and exhaust cam holes? This will set the position of the camshafts correctly. After, the hubs needed to be installed loosely and fully turned clockwise. The next, very important step, is to make sure the intake and exhaust splined shafts are fully inserted into the VANOS unit before installing the complete VANOS unit, with splined shafts attached, to the cylinder head. This will put both intake and exhaust VANOS pistons in the fully retarded position. If the splined shafts are not fully pressed into the VANOS unit before installation, the timing will be incorrect.

                                To check where the timing is currently without removing the VANOS unit, put the engine at TDC with cyl 1 cam lobes facing each other, and check that the cam timing pin slides through both intake and exhaust camshafts. You will probably need the 24mm wrench to move the exhaust cam to line it up with the timing bridge. Then look at the intake and exhaust splined shafts and check that they are fully extended towards the VANOS unit. If one or both are recessed in the hub, the timing is off. A picture of both the cams and VANOS splined shafts would be helpful in seeing if the timing is incorrect.

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