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Advice on getting the front differential bolt torqued to spec on jack stands

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    #16
    Thanks guys for the correct torque of 200nm or 147.5 ft lb.

    This higher torque just makes it harder although an impact driver may be the way now. BTW, I was able to screw it in by hand a couple of turns before using any tools so I don't think I cross threaded.

    On a similar thread, someone suggested Nord-lock. Do you apply the same torque with the Nord-lock?

    On a side note, do you tighten the fronts diff bolts first or the rear? Does it matter?

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      #17
      Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
      On a similar thread, someone suggested Nord-lock. Do you apply the same torque with the Nord-lock?
      Yes

      Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
      On a side note, do you tighten the fronts diff bolts first or the rear? Does it matter?
      Yes, here's the repair manual instructions:

      Click image for larger version

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      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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        #18
        Wish I had know about the Nord-lock when I did mine.

        And, as Heinz points out, the upper diff bolts get torqued last. This is when I discovered I could not get my torque wrench and e-torx socket in between the body and the diff mount....
        Old, not obsolete.

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          #19
          I lie on my back with my face under the front bolt and knees under the muffler, so you get the orientation. I put the torque wrench on my jeans/right quad and do a "bridge". Makes it pretty easy.

          Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

          Youtube DIYs and more

          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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            #20
            Received the Nordlock. Photos for reference.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
              I also tried to use my floor jack to tighten the bolt, but due to the accumulated play in the sockets and ratcheting mechanism, it is difficult to get it to hold while I pump the jack.


              What is your issue? I don't understand what you're saying. How can you use a floor jack to tighten a bolt?

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                #22
                Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
                Received the Nordlock. Photos for reference.

                Click image for larger version

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                that is much thicker than i would have imagined

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                  #23
                  2004 Dinan S3-R M3
                  2023 X3M Competition

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                    #24
                    I got nordlocks 1534, thickness is same 3.4mm, but I didn't opt for extended outer diameter, you don't really benefit, since head of the bolt is not that large. Just remember to grind off the washer that comes on the stock bolt.

                    Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

                    Youtube DIYs and more

                    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                      that is much thicker than i would have imagined
                      They're a two part assembly that come attached together with what looks like hot glue. Once installed they get a bit slimmer, but they're probably still 2x as thick as a regular washer
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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                        #26
                        I don't get why this washer is required unless something is wrong. It should go in more than a few turns by hand if it isn't stripped.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by eacmen View Post

                          that is much thicker than i would have imagined
                          That's what she said

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by 01SG View Post
                            I don't get why this washer is required unless something is wrong. It should go in more than a few turns by hand if it isn't stripped.
                            It's not required if you regularly check torque on that bolt, it backs out, especially for those who romp on the gas pedal on and off. Alternative is you use red loctite, which is not recommended if you ever have to remove it.

                            It is semi required for those with subframe raising solid bushings, because checking torque on it becomes a several hour job to remove exhaust and crossmeber (although easier way is with camera/mirror and paint mark).

                            Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

                            Youtube DIYs and more

                            All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                            PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by 01SG View Post
                              I don't get why this washer is required unless something is wrong. It should go in more than a few turns by hand if it isn't stripped.
                              This bolt is notorious for backing out even if installed correctly. Extra insurance can't hurt. I don't think anyone is claiming this washer is required.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
                                It is semi required for those with subframe raising solid bushings, because checking torque on it becomes a several hour job to remove exhaust and crossmeber (although easier way is with camera/mirror and paint mark).
                                I ran into this a couple of weeks ago, I went to check torque and realized I can't get to the bolt with the CMP subframe bushings. Next time I drop the exhaust the nord-lock is going on.
                                3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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