CREDIT TO ORIGINAL AUTHOR Surk///M : saving what I can from m3forums cache as it is rapidly disappearing.
"Since my car started overheating recently..what I thought was just a thermostat, became a W\pump replacement also..so I thought I'd add this DIY for the E46 M3 T-stat and W\pump replacement. My car is a 2001 with 88k miles, so preventatively I would suggest owners consider doing this DIY anywhere from 75-100k miles.
TOOLS:
VARIOUS--3/8 ratchet, 8-10-13mm sockets, T50 Torx socket, Pliers,
32mm wrench for clutch fan removal, BMW antifreeze x2, distilled water x2,
Thermostat Replacement ONLY >> Difficulty=4\10
BMW Parts req'd--
11531318274 x1--Thermostat
11531318402 x1--Thermostat O-ring
11537830709 x2 --O-ring for water pipe
BMW Antifreeze & distilled water, 1 bottle Redline Water Wetter (if in hot climates)
Jack the front of car up and support properly
1) Remove airbox completely and fan shroud, clutch fan removal (easier)
2) remove 3 top 10mm bolts where engine hook is located at thermostat, have catch pail cans avail as their will be coolant spillage.
3) remove both hose clamps to the thermostat housing (once shroud is removed for access)
4 Remove the 3 long 10mm bolts securing the thermostat housing and pull towards front of car to dislodge sealing O-ring in back pipe.. Remove housing along with T-stat.. I marked the location of the original T-stat being it was in a 1:35 pm "clocked" location on the housing..
4) Fit new T-stat and T-stat O-ring seal into housing, clock according to your markings.. replace rear pipe O-ring(s) lube with dish soap, re-install pushing fwd, and sequence torque 3 bolts to 11 Ft\Ibs or 15Nm.
5) SLOWLY refill system through reservoir using your 50/50 mixture of BMW coolant, bleed according to this helpful link http://home.kc.rr.com/blankpages/M3/...hange_DIY.html and monitor temp guage RECHECK after car has cooled\warmed over several few days. (3 drive cycles of overnight cooling)
WATER PUMP Replacement >> Difficulty level=5\10
PARTS:
11517838159 x1 W\Pump
11517831099 x1 Gskt
11537830712 x2 O-rings at w\pump sides
1) Follow above T-stat removal that will expose the W\Pump.. Remove the 4x 10mm w\pump pulley bolts, relieve the belt and tension by disconnecting the belt at the tensioner..After you remove the belt pulley, you will see 5 x10mm bolts that secure the w\pump (1 is hidden directly under the shaft) pull the w\pump fwd, while pulling the leftside water pipe feed outwards (Left side) with your free hand.
2) Now is a good time to consider a Complete Coolant Flush especially if like me I had leftovers from my impeller in my old coolant, also examine the condition of your idler & tensioner pulleys and belts..it's a good time to replace them also since you have things apart. Replace all the O-rings I noted in my pic, and pre-lube with liquid dish soap to aid in re-install.
Tighten w\pump securing bolts to 11 ft|Ibs or 15Nm .. re-install fan, shroud,airbox, lower panel etc..and refill according to above Flush DIY.
3) *OPTIONAL*--Since I had the engine drain bolt removed doing a complete coolant flush, I also decided to rinse the RAD and Engine block (through the t=stat housing to cyl head pipe using a garden hose) Was surprised to see lots of crap\sediment come out that I would've missed otherwise)
4) Reinstall in reverse of removal, refill system slowly, thoroughly bleed system and recheck for a few days after a few heat\cool cycles..
***Hope this helps those whom are DIY inclined,..I would give this a 4.5\10 for difficulty depending on experience, it's pretty straight fwd once everything is exposed. Takes approx 2-4 hrs depending on facility--take your time and enjoy the fact that once done..you $aved yourself $$$ and can spend it towards other important mods.
"
"Since my car started overheating recently..what I thought was just a thermostat, became a W\pump replacement also..so I thought I'd add this DIY for the E46 M3 T-stat and W\pump replacement. My car is a 2001 with 88k miles, so preventatively I would suggest owners consider doing this DIY anywhere from 75-100k miles.
TOOLS:
VARIOUS--3/8 ratchet, 8-10-13mm sockets, T50 Torx socket, Pliers,
32mm wrench for clutch fan removal, BMW antifreeze x2, distilled water x2,
Thermostat Replacement ONLY >> Difficulty=4\10
BMW Parts req'd--
11531318274 x1--Thermostat
11531318402 x1--Thermostat O-ring
11537830709 x2 --O-ring for water pipe
BMW Antifreeze & distilled water, 1 bottle Redline Water Wetter (if in hot climates)
Jack the front of car up and support properly
1) Remove airbox completely and fan shroud, clutch fan removal (easier)
2) remove 3 top 10mm bolts where engine hook is located at thermostat, have catch pail cans avail as their will be coolant spillage.
3) remove both hose clamps to the thermostat housing (once shroud is removed for access)
4 Remove the 3 long 10mm bolts securing the thermostat housing and pull towards front of car to dislodge sealing O-ring in back pipe.. Remove housing along with T-stat.. I marked the location of the original T-stat being it was in a 1:35 pm "clocked" location on the housing..
4) Fit new T-stat and T-stat O-ring seal into housing, clock according to your markings.. replace rear pipe O-ring(s) lube with dish soap, re-install pushing fwd, and sequence torque 3 bolts to 11 Ft\Ibs or 15Nm.
5) SLOWLY refill system through reservoir using your 50/50 mixture of BMW coolant, bleed according to this helpful link http://home.kc.rr.com/blankpages/M3/...hange_DIY.html and monitor temp guage RECHECK after car has cooled\warmed over several few days. (3 drive cycles of overnight cooling)
WATER PUMP Replacement >> Difficulty level=5\10
PARTS:
11517838159 x1 W\Pump
11517831099 x1 Gskt
11537830712 x2 O-rings at w\pump sides
1) Follow above T-stat removal that will expose the W\Pump.. Remove the 4x 10mm w\pump pulley bolts, relieve the belt and tension by disconnecting the belt at the tensioner..After you remove the belt pulley, you will see 5 x10mm bolts that secure the w\pump (1 is hidden directly under the shaft) pull the w\pump fwd, while pulling the leftside water pipe feed outwards (Left side) with your free hand.
2) Now is a good time to consider a Complete Coolant Flush especially if like me I had leftovers from my impeller in my old coolant, also examine the condition of your idler & tensioner pulleys and belts..it's a good time to replace them also since you have things apart. Replace all the O-rings I noted in my pic, and pre-lube with liquid dish soap to aid in re-install.
Tighten w\pump securing bolts to 11 ft|Ibs or 15Nm .. re-install fan, shroud,airbox, lower panel etc..and refill according to above Flush DIY.
3) *OPTIONAL*--Since I had the engine drain bolt removed doing a complete coolant flush, I also decided to rinse the RAD and Engine block (through the t=stat housing to cyl head pipe using a garden hose) Was surprised to see lots of crap\sediment come out that I would've missed otherwise)
4) Reinstall in reverse of removal, refill system slowly, thoroughly bleed system and recheck for a few days after a few heat\cool cycles..
***Hope this helps those whom are DIY inclined,..I would give this a 4.5\10 for difficulty depending on experience, it's pretty straight fwd once everything is exposed. Takes approx 2-4 hrs depending on facility--take your time and enjoy the fact that once done..you $aved yourself $$$ and can spend it towards other important mods.
"
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