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    #46
    Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post
    Well the bread trick isn’t working for me. Pilot bearing’s blue “cap” broke and the bread is coming out through the bearing. I tried for about 1h and it won’t budge. What do people use for this?

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    Thinking of using J-B weld to glue a washer to the front, blocking the bread from coming out. Is this a bad idea? (taking care not to glue the sides of the bearing in)
    Pilot bearing puller and save yourself another hour and some bread - https://www.autozone.com/transmissio...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

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      #47
      This tool does not fit. Hopefully this can save someone a visit to the store

      Click image for larger version

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        #48
        Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post
        This tool does not fit. Hopefully this can save someone a visit to the store

        Click image for larger version

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        That's unfortunate. Maybe it could work with some modification to the hooks. Otherwise, the other option is the slide hammer - Link . The genuine tool was 250 and seems to be NLA - Link .

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          #49
          I finally got it out with the bread. Yesterday I was making the bread too wet, and it allowed it to come out through the sides for being too wet. The trick today was not add moisture to it, just push it in as it is from the bag
          Last edited by E46m3zcp; 06-09-2024, 11:05 AM.

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            #50
            Supposedly you can also do this with wet toilet paper which may not break down as easily as wet Wonder bread.

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              #51
              Lol, this makes me "wonder". What makes you say I used Wonder bread? 😂

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                #52
                I would think this will work better than bread -- 50 cents from Walmart:

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post
                  This tool does not fit. Hopefully this can save someone a visit to the store

                  Click image for larger version

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                  I would throw that pilot bearing in the trash. Those bearings don't fit correctly in the crank flange and will be loose. Get a Genuine BMW.
                  '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                  Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                  Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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                    #54
                    Yeah I had bought another genuine one. Just brought the one from the kit to test fit the tool 😁

                    I also got a Sachs TOB but it looks different than the one that was installed on the transmission, I’ll try posting a photo later
                    Last edited by E46m3zcp; 06-10-2024, 08:32 AM.

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                      #55
                      left is Sachs, right is the one which came in the Luk kit (INA). The metal part that contacts the pressure plate is loose.
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                        #56
                        Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post
                        left is Sachs, right is the one which came in the Luk kit (INA). The metal part that contacts the pressure plate is loose.
                        I think you're talking about the bearing thrust axial plays, which is fine because the bearing is under a slightly preload so it's not loose any more when installed with slave rod pushing on the fork.

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                          #57
                          I don’t think it’s axial play. The top of the bearing isn’t clamped. What you said about preload still applies.

                          Mine came exactly like in this video

                          https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=AfK9TzeaK7XYoFYF&t=33&v=x9LWkST1gIA&featu re=youtu.be

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                            #58
                            I've replaced more BMW TOBs than I have LuK TOBs, actually I have not replaced any LuK for that matter.
                            '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT, '02 Alpine 325iT (Track Wagon), '02 Alpine 330iT
                            Instagram @HillPerformanceBimmers
                            Email to George@HillPerformance.com

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                              #59
                              What is the proper way to install a slave cylinder on an SMG. I have ISTA+, had a look at the TIS, and It's very trivial. What makes me doubt is, there is nothing said about bleeding.

                              Is it better to pre-fill the slave cyl. with Pentosin, does the bleeding procedure in INPA or ISTA take care of everything?

                              I'm curious about the mechanical way in which air makes its way out of that cyl., since there's only one line. Anyone knows? When things don't make sense to me I get paranoid. I don't want to have to remove the slave cyl. once installed on the car! Thanks

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                                #60
                                Anytime you open the system you will have to bleed. Filling with fluid is fine. Slave cylinder is nothing to be worried about.
                                3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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