SMG to 6MT Conversion

[jb74]

Hello All, getting ready to convert 2 cars. I am pretty far along on one and had some questions:

1) If I am not installing the GPS, what spring do I still need to renew (not counting the 2 for the main detents). Do I need to also change the one under the seal where the GPS would have gone (#9 part number ending in 405, or just the one under the bolt on the side of the tranny (#15 part number ending in 337)?

2) For cruise control it seems like with the right coding I don't need the GPS at all correct? as long as the car is coded correctly to bypass? I am using the ECUWorx tool for that portion of the coding.

3) Going to use the old style clutch switch. Can wire signal wire right to DME pin 20 and then the other signal wire to EWS Pin 8 and all should be good on the wiring correct? even with cruise control?

appreciate any help. Thanks!

[sapote]

Hello All, getting ready to convert 2 cars. I am pretty far along on one and had some questions:

1) If I am not installing the GPS, what spring do I still need to renew (not counting the 2 for the main detents). Do I need to also change the one under the seal where the GPS would have gone (#9 part number ending in 405, or just the one under the bolt on the side of the tranny (#15 part number ending in 337)?

2) For cruise control it seems like with the right coding I don't need the GPS at all correct? as long as the car is coded correctly to bypass? I am using the ECUWorx tool for that portion of the coding.

3) Going to use the old style clutch switch. Can wire signal wire right to DME pin 20 and then the other signal wire to EWS Pin 8 and all should be good on the wiring correct? even with cruise control?

appreciate any help. Thanks!

1. For Google map to work you need GPS, otherwise it's not needed. "the 2 for the main detents": these are the front lower left for the shift gates, and there are 3 more near upper rear right for R, 1/2nd, and 3/4, and 5/6 on the left side. There are a roller pin and spring under the so-called GPS even there is no GPS sensor (this the the internal main shift rod detent).

[jb74]

1. For Google map to work you need GPS, otherwise it's not needed. "the 2 for the main detents": these are the front lower left for the shift gates, and there are 3 more near upper rear right for R, 1/2nd, and 3/4, and 5/6 on the left side. There are a roller pin and spring under the so-called GPS even there is no GPS sensor (this the the internal main shift rod detent).

Thanks for the response and the info on what each spring affects. I guess questions breed questions, so it appears the spring under the sealing plug on the SMG transmission, and the spring that goes under the gear position sensor on the manual transmission are different part numbers. Is this just to be compatible with the gear position sensor? Can I just leave it be and not mess with removing the sealing plug and replacing with the manual part number if I am not installing the gear position sensor?

[sapote]

Can I just leave it be and not mess with removing the sealing plug and replacing with the manual part number if I am not installing the gear position sensor?

At this location, the 6mt "device" has 2 functions: works as detent on the main shift rod, and provide the electronic sensing signal to identify the status of either in neutral (0) or engaged gear, which the DME needs to control the max rpm and other features (cruise). I'm not 100% but it's my guess. In contrast, the SMG "device" only works as a detent for the main shift rod, as the encoders on the tail actuator have the status of in neutral or which gear engaged.

You don't need to install the GPS sensor for your converted 6mt, but it's good to replace the spring and roller pin under the plug as they are worn, to no worry if it jammed down in the future.

[jb74]

At this location, the 6mt "device" has 2 functions: works as detent on the main shift rod, and provide the electronic sensing signal to identify the status of either in neutral (0) or engaged gear, which the DME needs to control the max rpm and other features (cruise). I'm not 100% but it's my guess. In contrast, the SMG "device" only works as a detent for the main shift rod, as the encoders on the tail actuator have the status of in neutral or which gear engaged.

You don't need to install the GPS sensor for your converted 6mt, but it's good to replace the spring and roller pin under the plug as they are worn, to no worry if it jammed down in the future.

Thank you again.

Just an update for whoever. I was able to get the clutch switch 701 part here just yesterday from getbmwparts.com, so that might be an option for some.

[Pklauser]

Posting another success buying the 701 part from getbmwparts.com. Disabled the clutch interlock in EWS using BMWScanner and all is right with the world.

[SQ13]

So the guy who did my swap says he coded and wired the car as a Z4M. No GPS. The car has the “switch chain, frictional connection” code, and it’s causing my car to drop revs at idle. If I depress the clutch when the RPMs drop, it’ll rise to around 1200 RPM. ZCP so no cruise control to confirm that wiring and coding were done correctly. The clutch switch is brown, which I read is the correct part. The guy moved to a different city so I want to try to fix it myself, but idk where to begin. Anyone able to help?

[aa240sx]

Hey fellas - Super glad to see the thread on how to do a manual swap resurrected. As you can see, I'm not OUT...

When I first made that comment over a year ago I was super frustrated that the old forum disappeared, but I'm glad the community seems to be here now. Truthfully, I've rocked my SMG to 6MT swap now for over 3 years and it's great because I did the whole job 100% in my garage, including the coding (which I sent money to someone in the UK, downloaded the file, and used that to code the swap...) and managed to avoid the bell housing nonsense by using the RTD shifter (detents built in with reverse lockout). Saved hundreds and time just on these two steps alone.

Anyway, after three years of driving my manual swap, I do still get the stalling issue. Generally, it happens on cold start and seems to happen when the car goes down my somewhat steep driveway (not sure if it's an angle thing). Anyway, only does it once but I still would like to figure out why it stalls at startup, but is fine the rest of the day. And no, I don't any CEL, ABS or other lights on in my dash. I rank my swap right up there with swaps done my pro shops like Lang, etc., save for this odd stalling issue oh and the fact that I don't have cruise control, so may be not quite like a Lang job, but close.

Any solutions in 2021?

[SandeepM3]

So the guy who did my swap says he coded and wired the car as a Z4M. No GPS. The car has the “switch chain, frictional connection” code, and it’s causing my car to drop revs at idle. If I depress the clutch when the RPMs drop, it’ll rise to around 1200 RPM. ZCP so no cruise control to confirm that wiring and coding were done correctly. The clutch switch is brown, which I read is the correct part. The guy moved to a different city so I want to try to fix it myself, but idk where to begin. Anyone able to help?

I was having the stalling issue and found the solution in this thread below. There was one wire I hade to run from the clutch switch to the ground in the dme.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/53142-stalling-with-no-clutch-sensor/page2

[lemoose]

I was having the stalling issue and found the solution in this thread below. There was one wire I hade to run from the clutch switch to the ground in the dme.

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...h-sensor/page2

Odd, I was also having the same issues after a shop did my swap- but interestingly enough, I was able to sort it out by changing a value in the DME hex file. Everything seems to work fine for me though including reverse lights, mirror tilt, cruise control, and the clutch needing to be in to start. I'll have to see if the INPA test works for my situation.

[m3_sancho]

Hey guys! Is the new manual transmission roller pin and spring (part 8,9 and 10 on diagram) 100% necessary if I go the route without gear position sensor? Or can I keep the SMG spring and roller pin in there?

[Mr.wReckless]

Hey guys! Is the new manual transmission roller pin and spring (part 8,9 and 10 on diagram) 100% necessary if I go the route without gear position sensor? Or can I keep the SMG spring and roller pin in there?

To my understanding that spring is present in both manual and SMG gearboxes? Regardless it's susceptible to breaking hence it's common practice to swap it out whilst the gearbox is out of the car.

Regards

[Str8Six]

i have a smg converted car and it is sometimes difficult to get into fifth gear. any way to fix this?

[sapote]

Hey guys! Is the new manual transmission roller pin and spring (part 8,9 and 10 on diagram) 100% necessary if I go the route without gear position sensor? Or can I keep the SMG spring and roller pin in there?

You need to have these, if not the main shift rod (coming out at the tranny rear end) will be flopping around and the same for the console shifter (without detent).

[sapote]

i have a smg converted car and it is sometimes difficult to get into fifth gear. any way to fix this?

If only difficult on 5th but not 6th, then the issue could be the detent pin/spring for 5th/6th, located on the left side of the tranny (vu from car rear). If both 5/6 have similar issue then the issue is in the bell housing detent which controls the 5/6 gate plane.
Also, if the internal 5/6 shift rod fulcrum allen bolt is loose (if it was removed and was torqued down properly) then it might cause the problem. (5th/6th gears are flipped around (5th front and 6th rear) as compared to other gears (3rd rear 4th front) therefore 5th/6th shift rod is not directly shifted by through a fulcrum to change the shift rod direction. Hope it's not a loose fulcrum bolt as the bell housing has to be opened to fix this.

The same difficult to shift with engine not running?