SMG to 6MT Conversion

[headlock]

For coding

leave the SMG module in the car when you start. Take a read of the current (SMG) partial tune from the DME as a backup.

You can just flip the bits in the current tune and make a few other small changes and reflash, or you can put a stock manual tune on it. I have a supercharger so i flipped bits and made the other changes and it works fine.

To flip the bit for SMG, go to location 0008 and 4008 and change the values from 40 to 03

These are the other changes you need to make

DME Variant	Parameter	Offset	Default	Corrected
MSS54	K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL	0x4028	0x01	0x02
MSS54HP	K_SKRAFTS_CONTROL	0x802A	0x01	0x02

DME Variant	Parameter	Offset	Default	Corrected
MSS54	K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS	0x67E0	0x80	0xA0
MSS54	K_S_GANG_LL_ED	0x35DA	0x0032	0xFFFF
MSS54HP	K_MD_MIN_VERH_KRAFTS	0x88A2	0x80	0xA0
MSS54HP	K_S_GANG_LL_ED	0x5952	0x0032	0xFFFF

Reflash with BMW Flash

For coding the modules you need to load NCS Expert and follow these steps (these are rough notes so it may not be exactly 100% right)

1. Start NCS Expert
2. Load profil
3. Select Expertmode
4. Select VIN/ZCS/FA
5. ZCS/FA f. ECU
6. E46
7. Select AKMB
8. Enter FA
9. E46
10. VIN = leave (last 7 should be accurate)
11. Select attribute: $793, highlight and hit delete
12. Hit ok
13. Click back
14. Process ECU
15. Select AKMB click OK
16. Change job
17. Select FA_Write
18. Execute job
19. Change ECU
20. Select ALSZ
21. Confirm job name FA_Write
22. Execute job
23. Back to main
24. Close program
25. Start again and confirm option is gone.
26. Recode the defaults to AKMB, ALSZ, MK60 and AEWS. You might want to do the rest of the modules too but i'm not sure it's necessary.

Clear codes and adaptations, flash the new manual tune, and test. Should start and run well. Now you can pull your SMG ECU.

[ATB88]

Make sure you take the actual SMG module out of your car once you're done coding everything. Leaving it connected can create weird electrical gremlins -- not obvious and isn't mentioned in the DIY. It's the thing in the ebox sitting next to your DME/ECU, that looks identical to your DME/ECU, but has grey connectors instead of black. Unplug everything from it, take it out.

[headlock]

Also I did mine without a clutch switch or module, absolutely no wiring changes required.

I just changed the value K_SHRAFTS_CONTROL from 0x01 to 0x00. All this means is that cruise control will not turn itself off if you depress the clutch pedal. However it otherwise functions perfectly (and can be turned off with either the brake pedal or steering wheel button)

[Martyn]

Hi guys, I’m starting to loose faith here. After finishing up the easy part of a smg<6mt swap I’m having the worst time getting the car to run worth a shit. Stuck in limp mode and won’t really rev past 2.7k.
It’s been reflashed to manual with a complete manual tune not a modded smg tune. Then re flashed with Build journal tune for my headers and other requirements. Running Ape e85 module.
Can’t seem to kick this EML light issue. Is there anything special that needs to be completed to get the throttle test to not cause an issue? No SMG DME in the car any longer etc.

Check the clips on the throttle bodies, first make sure they aren’t fouling when the throttle is operated and secondly make sure they aren’t too tight and causing the throttle to bind.

[Ob917]

No SMG DME in the car. Totally different version of a manual tune flashed not a modified smg tune. And I reused the factory throttle body clips so I don’t think there is a binding or fouling issue with that. But I still get that throttle recalibration code. I must have something that went bad during the three months it sat. Thank you guys for your suggestions

[Ob917]

Well I found something strange, when I try and watch the throttle linkage move when revving with the pedal it doesn’t move at all. The revs climb to 2.7k or so but then it falls on its face. Shouldn’t I be seeing the linkage pull down to open the TBs? Is there any coding or adaptation to get the throttle solenoid to move? Sorry for the basic questions, I’ll have this chassis figured out eventually 😂 it’s getting fuel but no air I’m guessing.

[Distinct]

I'm a subscriber to this channel on youtube and they released a detailed and well filmed/hosted video on their SMG to 6MT conversion. I really like these guys and I thought the video is great.

This is part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDThhOoVGIc

[0-60motorsports]

Thanks or posting this Obi

[Gt4]

Are those the correct measurements for the SMG bellhousing machining? If not, can someone put the right one here.

I am located in Montreal, Canada and I have 3 SMG transmissions to do and it makes no sense to ship those bellhousings to USA right now as there are huge delays in delivery with most shippers.

[Steve]

Any pros or cons to removing the entire metal plate under the shifter vs using a hole saw to cut through the plate? I've seen it done both ways, but trying to figure out which method to go with.

[Ob917]

Any pros or cons to removing the entire metal plate under the shifter vs using a hole saw to cut through the plate? I've seen it done both ways, but trying to figure out which method to go with.

The hole saw method is really easy. That's what I did, a little paint on the edge and it looks factory.

[ATB88]

I did the swap two years ago and have been putting off fixing the one thing I somehow messed up. I had a thread about this on the old m3f where I got some good advice, but I forgot what it was and never got around to doing it and now that thread's gone. I need some advice for the best way to fix this:

I went the route of tapping the threads at the back of the transmission to fit the gear position sensor. I regret doing it because it's totally unnecessary, but here we are.

Unfortunately, I've had a leak coming from the GPS ever since the swap. Not a big one, I check the trans fluid level once every few of months and I've only had to top it up once in two years. When originally installing, I tightened the GPS into the threads pretty good, so, it's not that it's loose or anything.

1. Why would it be leaking, and what's the best way to fix it? Would a crush washer do the trick? Teflon tape on the threads? I hope to only have to go in there once.

2. Anyone ever had success accessing the 6MT GPS without having to drop the trans? It's in a very tight spot. Would hate to get in there ready to fix it and find that I have to drop the whole damn trans again.

[nervous24]

Any of you guys use a self centering shifter rather than modifying the transmission? If so, would you go this route again? Any difficulty finding gears? Which shifter did you go with?

I was the first to successfully do a “no-drop” swap. I opted for a CAE (it’s glorious). All the functions of machining a bellhousing are part of the shifters design so I went for it. I would definitely do it again and have helped a few others accomplish their swaps.

The one crux of this method is getting the bolt that holds the actuator off. #6 in this diagram

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=23_0898

Other than that it is quite easy and pretty quick. Depending on your luck it can easily be done in a day.

No issue finding gears either. I found it very easy to setup the shift gate and haven’t had to make any adjustments in the 2.5 years since I swapped.

I should add that I personally wouldn’t do this with a shifter that lacked the left/right stops & reverse lockout. Without the edges it can be quite vague finding your gates. The functionality and peace of mind the lockout offers is worth it.

[Steve]

The hole saw method is really easy. That's what I did, a little paint on the edge and it looks factory.

Great, I think that's the method I'm going to go with, now just need to pick up the right saw and get to drilling!

[nervous24]

The hole saw method is really easy. That's what I did, a little paint on the edge and it looks factory.

+1 for the hole saw. Took 5-10 seconds MAX! It’s been a while but I’m pretty sure it was 3.25”. I also picked up the quick change arbor with pilot bit. Perhaps a little extra but it didn’t hurt!