Guys, need some help. Just did this for a friend and I am getting a no crank no start situation. Any tips? I went over the DIY and it seems I have done everything accordingly.
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Is it completely dead like you're trying to start the car without pressing the clutch? If so, I'd start by investigating the wiring around the pedals. I can't think of anything else that would cause this, other than the starter itself not receiving power.Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View PostGuys, need some help. Just did this for a friend and I am getting a no crank no start situation. Any tips? I went over the DIY and it seems I have done everything accordingly.
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I had an issue like this, and it was just one of the EWS pins not being fully seated.Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View PostGuys, need some help. Just did this for a friend and I am getting a no crank no start situation. Any tips? I went over the DIY and it seems I have done everything accordingly.2003.5 ///M3 - Laguna Seca Blue - Black - SMG Delete
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My thinking as well.Originally posted by Steve View Post
Is it completely dead like you're trying to start the car without pressing the clutch? If so, I'd start by investigating the wiring around the pedals. I can't think of anything else that would cause this, other than the starter itself not receiving power.2003.5 Carbon Black ///M3 @_weaponM
MCS | Supersprint | CAE | TC Design | Momo | Schroth | Rogue | Turner | Bimmerworld | Vorshlag | Hyperco | AKG
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MartynHassanEido
Thanks for your suggestions guys, it was weird that it was coding. Martyn did an amazing job and jumped on and coded the car while HTE did his awesome tune and it started straight up. Thanks guys.
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Has anyone ever had a whirring sound after conversion? I tracked down a manual bellhousing, but I traded my SMG one for it.
The noise sounds a lot like a bad input shaft bearing. It hums at idle and goes away once the clutch is disengaged. When driving, it makes a number of different noises that vary with RPM. Everything besides the flywheel is new OEM. Flywheel is original and has just under 100k.
Is there any way the bellhousing could be misaligned? Also, I see it was asked earlier with no response, but has anyone ever found a way to replace the input shaft bearings in these, or should I start tracking down another SMG transmission to have machined?
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... and I traded... instead of ...but I traded ...?Originally posted by FoxFivePointOh View PostI tracked down a manual bellhousing, but I traded my SMG one for it.
So you installed the bell housing from another tranny? I had suggested before that doing this way is risky and might end up with a crushed and noisy input shaft bearing. Modify the original bell housing is the way to go.
and even if you can replace with new bearing, it must be measured to have the proper thickness bearing shim washer or it will be noisy again.Last edited by sapote; 07-20-2020, 12:49 PM.
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Yep, it's from a car that came from the factory as a manual. Makes sense now. Wish I'd thought of it before, but it seemed like others have had success doing it this way.Originally posted by sapote View PostSo you installed the bell housing from another tranny? I had suggested before that doing this way is risky and might end up with a crushed and noisy input shaft bearing. Modify the original bell housing is the way to go.
How is this measured and is there a spec for it? It hasn't been run long so I might give it a try if I can track down shims.Originally posted by sapote View Postand even if you can replace with new bearing, it must be measured to have the proper thickness bearing shim washer or it will be noisy again.
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Does anyone here know why the OP used this method for wiring the pin 2 clutch switch(to pin 13 wire on SMG ECU, then ground wire from SMG ECU to pin 20 on x60002)? Other DIY guides wire pin 2 directly to pin 20 on x60002 - hoping to find the reason why and possibly a solution to my cruise control not working 🤔
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I just finished the swap yesterday and used an RTD shifter w/ a DSSR. I get a pretty loud metallic sound coming from the transmission/linkage area when shifting into second gear. Does anyone know what this sound might be caused by? No other gears make this loud of a sound when shifting into.
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Could what he did at 14.55 in the video be the solution to shifter slop? Sounds promising and that thing did look solid.Originally posted by Distinct View PostI'm a subscriber to this channel on youtube and they released a detailed and well filmed/hosted video on their SMG to 6MT conversion. I really like these guys and I thought the video is great.
This is part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDThhOoVGIc2003.5 Titanium Silver / Black 6M/T (Gone)
2003.5 Carbon Black / Laguna Seca Blue SMG (Dusted)
2004 Carbon Black / Black SMG converted to 6M/T(Current)
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I've been chasing a sloppy shifter ever since I got my car. Replaced all bushings multiple times. Latest thing I've done is replace all detent springs in the transmission and upgrade to an AutoSolutions autocross SSK. There was no slop between the transmission and shifter carrier even with the regular pin. There's still about 10mm of side to side play in my shifter.Originally posted by SandeepM3 View Post
Could what he did at 14.55 in the video be the solution to shifter slop? Sounds promising and that thing did look solid.
I've basically given up now and am pretty certain that all the slop that's left is internal to the transmission. Looking at pictures of the bellhousing, there seem to be gaps between the detent bearing and the detent pins, which is potentially the source of the slop. At this point I'm just planning on swapping in an E92 335 transmission whenever I've run out of other things to do.
(Rant over) I you've got slop in that connection though, the SMG bolt thing might be worth doing. It'll also get rid of that stupid pin lol.2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - SSV1 - HJS - Mullet Tune - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal
2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal
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Oh cool. I actually did this when I did my swap because I just could not get the manual pin into the hole. It seemed like my SMG bolt had, in the past, been tightened a little too hard and the aluminum hold had warped every so slightly such that getting he manual pin into the hole was now totally impossible. So I just re-used the SMG bolt. I honestly see no reason why they don't just use the SMG bolt on the manuals to begin with, that pin thing sucks.Originally posted by SandeepM3 View Post
Could what he did at 14.55 in the video be the solution to shifter slop? Sounds promising and that thing did look solid.
Also, cheesy nostalgia: Man, every time I see this thread bump back up to the top I'm reminded of how much of an adventure this swap was. Was my second time really working on a car (first was a clutch job on a MK1 Audi TT), and I've learned a ton since then. Can't believe it's been 2 years!Last edited by ATB88; 08-22-2020, 04:06 PM.
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I used the same shifter and rod. I don't seem to have any slop in any gears. I'd guess it's not an adjustment but something that's worn.Originally posted by ejendow View PostI just finished the swap yesterday and used an RTD shifter w/ a DSSR. I get a pretty loud metallic sound coming from the transmission/linkage area when shifting into second gear. Does anyone know what this sound might be caused by? No other gears make this loud of a sound when shifting into.
Does yours center between 1st and 2nd or 3rd and 4th?
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