error codes after CSL intake, rod bearing, vanos rebuild

[Razza77]

If it proves to be an MSS54 that's converted (and therefore K_P_UMG_OFFSET is correct) then tbh I'd suspect something else electrical/mechanical before I'd suspect the DME of being at fault but let's cross that bridge when we get to it :-)


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Just pulled it out and taken a closer look.

Tuner had placed a sticker over the original and now having peeled that back can clearly see it is a mss54 and not an mss54hp.

See pictures.

[karter16]

Just pulled it out and taken a closer look.

Tuner had placed a sticker over the original and now having peeled that back can clearly see it is a mss54 and not an mss54hp.

See pictures.

Well that answers that…

Looking at it it looks like it's had the resistors and capacitor added as it should and that would make sense given we're seeing valid values from the MAP sensor.

Given that the most likely explanations I can think of are:

1: Something else mechanical/electrical. What's odd is that you have bad idle and stalling. When the MAP sensor error code happens the MAP sensor is removed from the loop and the car runs alpha n with exhaust gas temp correction. It won't be smooth, but wouldn't have thought it would stall.

2: There's something about the tune causing this (doesn't seem overly likely given the tuner is well known and has done this a lot)

I wonder if the MAP sensor error code is maybe incidental to the larger problem? As an aside: Are you using the Bosch '101 MAP sensor? Where is it located and how did you go about wiring it in?


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[Razza77]

Well that answers that…

Looking at it it looks like it's had the resistors and capacitor added as it should and that would make sense given we're seeing valid values from the MAP sensor.

Given that the most likely explanations I can think of are:

1: Something else mechanical/electrical. What's odd is that you have bad idle and stalling. When the MAP sensor error code happens the MAP sensor is removed from the loop and the car runs alpha n with exhaust gas temp correction. It won't be smooth, but wouldn't have thought it would stall.

2: There's something about the tune causing this (doesn't seem overly likely given the tuner is well known and has done this a lot)

I wonder if the MAP sensor error code is maybe incidental to the larger problem? As an aside: Are you using the Bosch '101 MAP sensor? Where is it located and how did you go about wiring it in?


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Yes it is a Bosch 101 sensor, it’s located under the pollen filter housing using a t piece on the line that runs behind the airbox under the pollen filter housing.

It is wired in as per the diagrams provided in several online resources (pic attached).

We have recently renewed the map sensor and wiring incase there was something not right there (pic attached of the replacement sensor) but it has made no difference and we’re still unable to clear the code.

[Razza77]

Yes it is a Bosch 101 sensor, it’s located under the pollen filter housing using a t piece on the line that runs behind the airbox under the pollen filter housing.

It is wired in as per the diagrams provided in several online resources (pic attached).

We have recently renewed the map sensor and wiring incase there was something not right there (pic attached of the replacement sensor) but it has made no difference and we’re still unable to clear the code.

I should also say that we tried an ecu from another car with same airbox / setup and car run fine. Didn’t read codes as only quickly swapped it out but ran fine with no rough idle or revs dropping so assume if we had cleared code it wouldn’t have come back.

Put my ecu back in and straight away wasn’t running right again.

i think that would eliminate mechanical, wiring or sensor issues and point at only the ecu or map as the issue.

[karter16]

I should also say that we tried an ecu from another car with same airbox / setup and car run fine. Didn’t read codes as only quickly swapped it out but ran fine with no rough idle or revs dropping so assume if we had cleared code it wouldn’t have come back.

Put my ecu back in and straight away wasn’t running right again.

i think that would eliminate mechanical, wiring or sensor issues and point at only the ecu or map as the issue.

Ah - yes that fundamentally changes the possibilities :-)

There are only a few options remaining then.

1: There's something wrong with the tune (most likely)
2: There's something wrong with the DME itself electrically (less likely)
3: The program code on the DME is changed in some way (Incredibly unlikely)

Either way it points back to your tuner who has provided both the tune and the DME. Kind of depends on how you want to proceed from here. As I see it your options are:

A: Get your tuner to sort the problem.
B: Get a different tuner to help (if you go this route I'd strongly suggest reaching out to Bry5on and seeing if he can help with his Mullet Tune)

[Razza77]

Ah - yes that fundamentally changes the possibilities :-)

There are only a few options remaining then.

1: There's something wrong with the tune (most likely)
2: There's something wrong with the DME itself electrically (less likely)
3: The program code on the DME is changed in some way (Incredibly unlikely)

Either way it points back to your tuner who has provided both the tune and the DME. Kind of depends on how you want to proceed from here. As I see it your options are:

A: Get your tuner to sort the problem.
B: Get a different tuner to help (if you go this route I'd strongly suggest reaching out to Bry5on and seeing if he can help with his Mullet Tune)

So point A been trying for months to get original tuner to help but as you cannot phone him (use to be able to but now cannot) so is all done via email and he takes days to respond to each question we are slowly giving up and excepting that he is not going to right his wrong. Shame as is a well known name here in the UK but very disappointed to now understand I don’t have my original DME and the very likely causes of all my issues are the DME or the tune he has provided.
Point B
Could you maybe point me in the right direction and I can reach out to him to see if he can help?

Thanks Matt for all you help over the past couple of days.

[karter16]

So point A been trying for months to get original tuner to help but as you cannot phone him (use to be able to but now cannot) so is all done via email and he takes days to respond to each question we are slowly giving up and excepting that he is not going to right his wrong. Shame as is a well known name here in the UK but very disappointed to now understand I don’t have my original DME and the very likely causes of all my issues are the DME or the tune he has provided.
Point B
Could you maybe point me in the right direction and I can reach out to him to see if he can help?

Thanks Matt for all you help over the past couple of days.

Yeah completely understand - I'd be pretty upset if I didn't get my genuine HP back again too.

PM Bry5on on here and see what he says. I am not sure what the current scope of how he's sharing his tune is, but really worth having a read of what he's done and what his approach behind this tune has been (https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...311#post260311 and beyond) and seeing if it's something he might be able to help you with. Make sure you call out you have a euro M3 as they differ from the US spec in terms of headers and fuel.

Alternatively you could try baking your own with Martyn's ECUWorx tool, but that's only going to give you a stock CSL tune with the minimal changes needed to run it on your Euro M3, you'd need additional changes to cam maps, fueling, timing, etc. to get something that really works well.

Thanks Matt for all you help over the past couple of days.

Glad to do what I can to help. I've benefited immeasurably from the collective knowledge and kindness of others in this community so very happy to be able to help others where I can :-)