What did you do for your M3 today?

[sg.e46m3]

finally got a chance to clean up my car

[davidinnyc]

1. Leave stock studs with factory headers

2. Factory DME requires a pre-cat narrow band in each bank. If there are 1 or 2 extra pre-cat bungs like there are on aftermarket headers, then you can add a wide band sensor or two.

Thanks - answers my questions. These are CSL headers so just one bung in each, but more curious as to what happens when I need to get Hassan to “enhance” the CSL DME. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

David

[Slideways]

My follow-up question before the headers get bolted back on:

1. Should I just leave the studs in place since none of them came out, or go ahead and replace them with the torx ended longer studs? I'm assuming no need and to go ahead and just add some copper anti-seize and bolt them back up.

2. Should I slap a wideband O2 sensor on one of the banks? I had previously purchased “euro” sensors to mate with the CSL Section 1 and bought new O2 sensors for pre-cat spots. (Recommendations accepted)

Thanks,

David


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1. Leave stock studs with factory headers

2. Factory DME requires a pre-cat narrow band in each bank. If there are 1 or 2 extra pre-cat bungs like there are on aftermarket headers, then you can add a wide band sensor or two.

[davidinnyc]

My follow-up question before the headers get bolted back on:

1. Should I just leave the studs in place since none of them came out, or go ahead and replace them with the torx ended longer studs? I'm assuming no need and to go ahead and just add some copper anti-seize and bolt them back up.

2. Should I slap a wideband O2 sensor on one of the banks? I had previously purchased “euro” sensors to mate with the CSL Section 1 and bought new O2 sensors for pre-cat spots. (Recommendations accepted)

Thanks,

David


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[davidinnyc]

Gear position sensor went out on me a few weeks ago, so finally got some time to get to work. Since I would be dropping the driveshaft and exhaust Sections 1 and 2, I figured it would also be a good time to install the full CSL exhaust manifolds-to-Section 3 I managed to pick up. Since the headers were coming out, I also figured it would be a good time to replace the o-rings on the cam position sensors. Since I’d be removing the transmission support bar, I figured it would be a good time to replace transmission mounts. Since I’d be replacing transmission mounts, I might as well replace engine mounts… spiraled out of control. I had already managed through the CPV valve and boron o-ring replacement with stock US headers, so just checked torque here once more.

New parts:

1. Rogue Engineering transmission mounts
2. Gruppe N 800 engine mounts
3. GPS sensor
4. SGF Guibo + CSB

Well… probably didn’t need to replace the guibo because I saw zero cracks, but did so anyways. Hopefully I don’t have any broken detent springs because I didn’t feel like dropping the transmission.

I felt like an idiot when I tried to manually turn the driveshaft and nothing budged… because the car was on race ramps (doh). Propping the rear on jack stands freed the wheels and all was good in the world.

GPS wasn’t hard to replace, just very tight spacing.

I’m sure you all know this by now, but rather than mess with trying to NOT spill coolant everywhere, just open up the coolant drain plug on the engine block and funnel it down and get it over with… I tried to get fancy and creatively loop the coolant from the upper hose leaving the coolant reservoir but ended up making a mess anyways.

I fashioned an aluminum bracket to mount to the lower part of the driveshaft to “hold up” the driveshaft south of the CSB area so that coupler hung down enough to get to the GPS.

[Grey Phox]

Added a ton of items to my FCP cart to order ASAP because the COVID price hikes were bad enough

I did the same thing and ordered a few dealer parts online before a possible jump in the next restock.

[elrichmeister]

More info on this! Where can I buy this and the phone holder?!

Panavise Phone mount

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pvp-75103-599/make/bmw/model/m3/year/2004

Also interested in that cup holder lol

[jpy1980]

Made a “997 style” (though fixed) cupholder so my wife can put a big coffee or yeti somewhere without it getting in the way of shifting. Think I'll put euro tray back in now and use that as backup/no. 2 cupholder when needed

More info on this! Where can I buy this and the phone holder?!

[dukeofchen]

Added a ton of items to my FCP cart to order ASAP because the COVID price hikes were bad enough

[Nate047]

Bought a lifetime supply of BM134 this morning

[M3dragon]

I started it does that count LOL. Just ran it to temp

[Tbonem3]

Leg room mod. Nogaros put my left hip area in conflict with the more narrow than stock seat base and caused a pinch point. Pure joy with left leg now fully extended.


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Might have to do this, thanks

[rcsummers]

Test fitted some M2 Comp wheels for daily use.

Also in the process of un-stancing my car…..oh mistakes I made when I was younger.

Raised the front slightly after this pic was taken, and need to raise the rear this weekend.

[Slideways]

Can’t believe I’m about to pay $100 for this shit bc my $5k exhaust setup rattles like a bitch. Thanks for the links!

On their website, they refer to V1s as the "racing" version. Typically, these are meant for cars that mostly see track time and most of those cars are loud. The owners are not going to hear any rattles over a race muffler or diff whine.

Plus, the space where the V1s mate up to the section 1 cannot utilize a flange and standard gaskets. 63.5" pipes barely fit through there as is. SS uses the same slip joint with allen bolts on the Race muffler and that thing leaks like a sieve. All the 60mm stuff is flanged with proper gaskets and the street/sport muffler doesn't have a slip fit joint like the race muffler (between the muffler chambers).

[0-60motorsports]

Can't believe I'm about to pay $100 for this shit bc my $5k exhaust setup rattles like a bitch. Thanks for the links!

Hahaha thanks to the forum members who posted this