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  • karter16
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    There might be a way to keep the DME in open loop where it will not reference the pre-cat sensors.
    I *think* that bits 1 and 2 of K_LA_FREIGABE could be cleared (e.g. set K_LA_FREIGABE to 0xF9 instead of the default which is 0xFF) to prevent the switch on conditions from being met. This is documented in the funktionsrahmen (which I appreciate is not always accurate, however checking the disassembly it does appear that that is what those two bits do). Note that there is also a reference to being able to turn the lambda controller off via DS2 - so there is possibly also a way to do this via DIS or similar?

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    Disclaimer that no one should be messing with this unless they are confident that they know what they are doing!

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  • LSB__M3
    replied
    Reassembly after a lengthy refresh of my TC Kline DA Coilovers. Wire wheeled the struts clean with a paint job, new bump stops, spherical bearings and a used set of TC Kline Camber plates. Tossed the springs into the ultrasonic cleaner too. Drastic before and after photos!

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post

    Thanks - answers my questions. These are CSL headers so just one bung in each, but more curious as to what happens when I need to get Hassan to “enhance” the CSL DME. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

    David
    There might be a way to keep the DME in open loop where it will not reference the pre-cat sensors. Then, a wide band sensor or two can be put in their place temporarily for tuning. The data from the wide band sensor needs to be read with separate software or an AFR gauge. This DME does not support wide band sensors.

    Most dynos stick a wide band sensor in the muffler to get AFR data. It is not as accurate as having it right after the collector.
    Last edited by Slideways; 04-09-2025, 08:59 PM.

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  • sg.e46m3
    replied
    finally got a chance to clean up my car


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  • davidinnyc
    replied
    Originally posted by Slideways View Post

    1. Leave stock studs with factory headers

    2. Factory DME requires a pre-cat narrow band in each bank. If there are 1 or 2 extra pre-cat bungs like there are on aftermarket headers, then you can add a wide band sensor or two.
    Thanks - answers my questions. These are CSL headers so just one bung in each, but more curious as to what happens when I need to get Hassan to “enhance” the CSL DME. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by davidinnyc View Post
    My follow-up question before the headers get bolted back on:

    1. Should I just leave the studs in place since none of them came out, or go ahead and replace them with the torx ended longer studs? I'm assuming no need and to go ahead and just add some copper anti-seize and bolt them back up.

    2. Should I slap a wideband O2 sensor on one of the banks? I had previously purchased “euro” sensors to mate with the CSL Section 1 and bought new O2 sensors for pre-cat spots. (Recommendations accepted)

    Thanks,

    David


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1. Leave stock studs with factory headers

    2. Factory DME requires a pre-cat narrow band in each bank. If there are 1 or 2 extra pre-cat bungs like there are on aftermarket headers, then you can add a wide band sensor or two.

    Leave a comment:


  • davidinnyc
    replied
    My follow-up question before the headers get bolted back on:

    1. Should I just leave the studs in place since none of them came out, or go ahead and replace them with the torx ended longer studs? I'm assuming no need and to go ahead and just add some copper anti-seize and bolt them back up.

    2. Should I slap a wideband O2 sensor on one of the banks? I had previously purchased “euro” sensors to mate with the CSL Section 1 and bought new O2 sensors for pre-cat spots. (Recommendations accepted)

    Thanks,

    David


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • davidinnyc
    replied
    Gear position sensor went out on me a few weeks ago, so finally got some time to get to work. Since I would be dropping the driveshaft and exhaust Sections 1 and 2, I figured it would also be a good time to install the full CSL exhaust manifolds-to-Section 3 I managed to pick up. Since the headers were coming out, I also figured it would be a good time to replace the o-rings on the cam position sensors. Since I’d be removing the transmission support bar, I figured it would be a good time to replace transmission mounts. Since I’d be replacing transmission mounts, I might as well replace engine mounts… spiraled out of control. I had already managed through the CPV valve and boron o-ring replacement with stock US headers, so just checked torque here once more.

    New parts:

    1. Rogue Engineering transmission mounts
    2. Gruppe N 800 engine mounts
    3. GPS sensor
    4. SGF Guibo + CSB

    Well… probably didn’t need to replace the guibo because I saw zero cracks, but did so anyways. Hopefully I don’t have any broken detent springs because I didn’t feel like dropping the transmission.

    I felt like an idiot when I tried to manually turn the driveshaft and nothing budged… because the car was on race ramps (doh). Propping the rear on jack stands freed the wheels and all was good in the world.

    GPS wasn’t hard to replace, just very tight spacing.

    I’m sure you all know this by now, but rather than mess with trying to NOT spill coolant everywhere, just open up the coolant drain plug on the engine block and funnel it down and get it over with… I tried to get fancy and creatively loop the coolant from the upper hose leaving the coolant reservoir but ended up making a mess anyways.

    I fashioned an aluminum bracket to mount to the lower part of the driveshaft to “hold up” the driveshaft south of the CSB area so that coupler hung down enough to get to the GPS.





    Last edited by davidinnyc; 04-09-2025, 08:26 AM.

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  • Grey Phox
    replied
    Originally posted by dukeofchen View Post
    Added a ton of items to my FCP cart to order ASAP because the COVID price hikes were bad enough
    I did the same thing and ordered a few dealer parts online before a possible jump in the next restock.

    Leave a comment:


  • elrichmeister
    replied
    Originally posted by jpy1980 View Post

    More info on this! Where can I buy this and the phone holder?!
    Panavise Phone mount
    Free Shipping - PanaVise InDash Custom Dash Mounts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Mobile Device Mounting Brackets at Summit Racing.


    Also interested in that cup holder lol

    Leave a comment:


  • jpy1980
    replied
    Originally posted by BTB View Post
    Made a “997 style” (though fixed) cupholder so my wife can put a big coffee or yeti somewhere without it getting in the way of shifting. Think I'll put euro tray back in now and use that as backup/no. 2 cupholder when needed




    More info on this! Where can I buy this and the phone holder?!

    Leave a comment:


  • dukeofchen
    replied
    Added a ton of items to my FCP cart to order ASAP because the COVID price hikes were bad enough

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Bought a lifetime supply of BM134 this morning

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  • M3dragon
    replied
    I started it does that count LOL. Just ran it to temp

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by Phoenix///M3 View Post
    Leg room mod. Nogaros put my left hip area in conflict with the more narrow than stock seat base and caused a pinch point. Pure joy with left leg now fully extended.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Might have to do this, thanks

    Leave a comment:

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