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r4dr I feel like I am getting to see up the skirt of that beautiful car
The e46 one looks a little different, more hockey puck, and sits directly behind the first plastic body cover underneath ( sorry do not know technical name ) . . . But I see posts that this is not a jack point on the e46 M3, so I get freaked out...just wanted confirmation from folks I trust
@thogian great point, I may have overlooked my hockey puck, it may not be there . . . I am gonna go check that out ASAP .
If that rubber hockey puck is missing and confusing things, it's literally the point at the very front of reinforcement plate where it meets up with the plastic belly pan. As mentioned in the previous comment, the front subframe is directly above that point.
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
If that rubber hockey puck is missing and confusing things, it's literally the point at the very back of the front reinforcement plate before it meets up with the plastic tranny tunnel covers. As mentioned in the previous comment, the front subframe is directly above that point.
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Isn't it right by the front plastic cover? At the very front of the reinforcement plate not the very back.
What is that? I’ve *tried to use a kit for all the rear end bushings but it only worked for the front diff and ball joints. I Have yet to press out subframe bushings.
Its a front bearing installer for e36/E46 front bearings.
Not cheap but saves me from using a hammer, socket and extension to beat the bearing to death during installation.
The central rod screws into the internal threads of the front axle stub.
the outer sleeve the forces the new bearing onto the axle stub. It matches the dimensions of the inner race.
I have one of those amazon rear bearing removal/installation kit for the rear lateral link outer bushings on the hubs.
This kit is also supposed to press out the diff and rear subframe bushings.For Rtabs I use a TMS tool which also is good for other press jobs and a Bav auto bearing installer.
Isn't it right by the front plastic cover? At the very front of the reinforcement plate not the very back.
Yeah sorry, I've spent too much time with parts scattered on the floor and flipped.
It is in front of the plate by the belly pan. Boy what I wrote would require a whole new kind of a low profile jack, extra extra extra reach, lol.
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
If that rubber hockey puck is missing and confusing things, it's literally the point at the very front of reinforcement plate where it meets up with the plastic belly pan. As mentioned in the previous comment, the front subframe is directly above that point.
Edited the nonsense it is in the front of the reinforcement plate by the belly pan, NOT by the tranny plastic covers.
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
Actually another thing I have to add that has been super-useful is a giant vice grip that I got for free as part of a raffle. To give you guys an idea of how big it is, it's about 30 cm in length and as such also has amazing clamping power. The one or two times I've rounded a bolt, this hilariously large vice grip has saved my ass
Just finished my power steering refresh and bought the BMW hose clamps, but didn't buy the tool to get them on. Managed to get them on with a pair of vice grips and an unbent wire hanger. Figured this might be a good place to share.
The clamps are tightened by slipping a tab over another, as shown in this pic:
The problem is that if you use regular pliers, the top tab will be unable to slip over the flat edge (right side in the pic) of the bottom tab because the jaw of the pliers will be in the way.
To get around this, I bent the end of the wire hanger 180° to make a little hook and put that into the bottom tab:
Then I grip the whole thing with vice grips and set them to lock at about this point:
After that, I just tightened the vice grips adjustment screw until I got the top tab to slip over the bottom one. The wire hanger leaves just enough space for the tabs to lock.
This has been one of the most useful tools. I had a temporary job at a tire shop and the shop foreman stole them when I quit. Life got much harder without them.
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