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    #16
    Originally posted by cbean View Post
    r4dr I feel like I am getting to see up the skirt of that beautiful car

    The e46 one looks a little different, more hockey puck, and sits directly behind the first plastic body cover underneath ( sorry do not know technical name ) . . . But I see posts that this is not a jack point on the e46 M3, so I get freaked out...just wanted confirmation from folks I trust

    @thogian great point, I may have overlooked my hockey puck, it may not be there . . . I am gonna go check that out ASAP .
    If that rubber hockey puck is missing and confusing things, it's literally the point at the very front of reinforcement plate where it meets up with the plastic belly pan. As mentioned in the previous comment, the front subframe is directly above that point.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


    Last edited by mrgizmo04; 01-10-2021, 07:44 AM.
    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
      If that rubber hockey puck is missing and confusing things, it's literally the point at the very back of the front reinforcement plate before it meets up with the plastic tranny tunnel covers. As mentioned in the previous comment, the front subframe is directly above that point.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
      Isn't it right by the front plastic cover? At the very front of the reinforcement plate not the very back.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by BlAikenstein View Post

        What is that? I’ve *tried to use a kit for all the rear end bushings but it only worked for the front diff and ball joints. I Have yet to press out subframe bushings.
        Its a front bearing installer for e36/E46 front bearings.
        Not cheap but saves me from using a hammer, socket and extension to beat the bearing to death during installation.
        The central rod screws into the internal threads of the front axle stub.
        the outer sleeve the forces the new bearing onto the axle stub. It matches the dimensions of the inner race.
        I have one of those amazon rear bearing removal/installation kit for the rear lateral link outer bushings on the hubs.
        This kit is also supposed to press out the diff and rear subframe bushings.For Rtabs I use a TMS tool which also is good for other press jobs and a Bav auto bearing installer.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

          Isn't it right by the front plastic cover? At the very front of the reinforcement plate not the very back.
          Yeah sorry, I've spent too much time with parts scattered on the floor and flipped.
          It is in front of the plate by the belly pan. Boy what I wrote would require a whole new kind of a low profile jack, extra extra extra reach, lol.

          Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

          Youtube DIYs and more

          All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

          PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

          Comment


            #20


            Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
            If that rubber hockey puck is missing and confusing things, it's literally the point at the very front of reinforcement plate where it meets up with the plastic belly pan. As mentioned in the previous comment, the front subframe is directly above that point.

            Edited the nonsense it is in the front of the reinforcement plate by the belly pan, NOT by the tranny plastic covers.

            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


            Last edited by mrgizmo04; 01-10-2021, 07:45 AM.
            Youtube DIYs and more

            All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

            PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

            Comment


              #21
              Where are the hammers and pry bars?
              This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
              https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

              "Do it right once or do it twice"

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Arith2 View Post
                Where are the hammers and pry bars?
                Don't forget torches, PB Blaster, and cheater bars.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Thank you for the clarity.

                  And lets not forget duct tape 😶😏

                  J/K, I do not put that crap anywhere near my car.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Actually another thing I have to add that has been super-useful is a giant vice grip that I got for free as part of a raffle. To give you guys an idea of how big it is, it's about 30 cm in length and as such also has amazing clamping power. The one or two times I've rounded a bolt, this hilariously large vice grip has saved my ass

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Just finished my power steering refresh and bought the BMW hose clamps, but didn't buy the tool to get them on. Managed to get them on with a pair of vice grips and an unbent wire hanger. Figured this might be a good place to share.

                      The clamps are tightened by slipping a tab over another, as shown in this pic:

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	20210110_181945.jpg Views:	0 Size:	29.1 KB ID:	78250

                      The problem is that if you use regular pliers, the top tab will be unable to slip over the flat edge (right side in the pic) of the bottom tab because the jaw of the pliers will be in the way.

                      To get around this, I bent the end of the wire hanger 180° to make a little hook and put that into the bottom tab:

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	20210110_181606.jpg Views:	0 Size:	41.0 KB ID:	78251

                      Then I grip the whole thing with vice grips and set them to lock at about this point:

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	20210110_181903.jpg Views:	0 Size:	89.0 KB ID:	78252

                      After that, I just tightened the vice grips adjustment screw until I got the top tab to slip over the bottom one. The wire hanger leaves just enough space for the tabs to lock.
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                      Comment


                        #26
                        My main tools
                        1, brass hammer
                        2, 10WR vise grips.
                        Don't enter the battle without 'em.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          This has been one of the most useful tools. I had a temporary job at a tire shop and the shop foreman stole them when I quit. Life got much harder without them.

                          https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-VISE-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Big Mamba
                          😍
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Last edited by Arith2; 01-10-2021, 09:05 PM.
                          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
                          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

                          "Do it right once or do it twice"

                          Comment


                            #29
                            Nice, I especially like those constant tension clamp pliers with cable so you can get the tool into tight spots as well as locking the clamp open.
                            2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
                            Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
                            Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA

                            OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
                            RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan

                            2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
                            Instagram

                            Comment


                              #30
                              This would have saved me a ton of fiddling around with the stupid wire hanger lol.
                              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                              Comment

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