Transmission Compression Springs

[Casa de Mesa]

It would be very interesting if this all came down to a $1.17 ball pin. Regardless, time to pull the tranny...

Right?!

Motor need to come out to pull the tranny I'm told. If that happens, might as well respray the car. Logic dictates.

[Mayan-Viking]

Right. I mean, anything else would just be irresponsible and imprudent at this point right?

[sapote]

• Checked all the centering springs/detent mechanisms I can get to without removing the tranny.
• Rebled the slave from the bottom up
• Checked clutch stop and engagement
• Checked clutch resistance by hand
• With car on jack stands in the rear:
  • Started the car with it in neutral
  • Depressed clutch and engaged 1st (or any other gear) and the wheels don't move
  • Release clutch and wheels spin
  • Depress clutch and wheels stop (after some rotations)

Casa, I saw your last post today. I think the pressure plate probably about to explode: causing clutch dragging at high rpm (centripetal force) but released clutch completely at idle rpm.
So you may want to repeat the test as above, and at this step "Depress clutch and wheels stop (after some rotations)", the wheels stop at idle, but if rpm is increased higher then the bad PP will act up and starts grabbing the clutch, causing the wheels to rotate. The same thing happened when you tried to pull the gears out to neutral but it was hard to pull it out at high rpm as you said.

[sapote]

When the RPMs came down to about 2.5k, I was able to get it out of 2nd by slowly rolling on the throttle (just enough to relieve drivetrain stress from engine braking). The clutch pedal then worked slightly, (not well) but enough to get it into 3rd and crudely into 4th. I could feel a fairly strong wobble coming through the pedal in my foot as I released the pedal to engage the clutch.

The only thing could cause the pedal to feel wobble is something was pushing, pulsing, on the PP rearward, or the PP growing longer cyclically, at high rpm, or the clutch disk was falling apart and pushed on the PP. I would hope what pushing on the pp rearward is not a loose flywheel, but I strongly think it is the PP on its last breath, before exploding, or the clutch disk falling apart.

DukeofChen's problem was the clutch dragging caused by the shorten plastic pivot pin. The synchros were good enough to overcome the dragged clutch and engaged them at low rpm, but at high rpm, the speed differential was too big for the synchro to overcome the dragging clutch.

[Casa de Mesa]

Won’t know until you drop the transmission…but it sounds like a clutch or pressure plate issue.

Yep... valid point. Time to get busy.

Casa, I saw your last post today. I think the pressure plate probably about to explode: causing clutch dragging at high rpm (centripetal force) but released clutch completely at idle rpm.

Thanks Sapote. Based on this... and knowing the transmission has to be pulled, I think next step is to just tear into it and get it done. I don't want the clutch or PP exploding. No idea how solid the bellhousing is in these transmissions but I'd rather not find out.

DukeofChen's problem was the clutch dragging caused by the shorten plastic pivot pin. The synchros were good enough to overcome the dragged clutch and engaged them at low rpm, but at high rpm, the speed differential was too big for the synchro to overcome the dragging clutch.

Makes perfect sense. I was hoping for a similar outcome but don't think that's the case.

I'll search, but what's the consensus on flywheels and clutches? I'm a fan of lighter weight clutches in general, but have read some things over the years that you shouldn't go too light with these cars. I know the stock setup is great for smooth engagement, but that's not a primary concern of mine. Reliability and performance are.