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Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
You must live in the garage. That’s insane.
Mike
the E39 has been rock solid, only needing front suspension components, cooling system revamp, SAP issues, smog issues....but i got that sorted. just needs the rear diff seals done now.
the range rovers just need some pullies, both need fresh air bags and compressors, not too bad of a job once you've got it going.
the fu*king problem child is the E60 though. ive had that thing for 10 years and its honestly the worst car ive ever owned. im not sure there's a worse BMW ever made.....quite literally. that bitch is under a car cover. i stopped driving it years ago because i got tired of repairing it...doesnt help that they arent worth a dime resell either. later this year though, im going to go back through it again and get her going.
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Okay, guys, help me out with the math here. I'm hoping those of you with a lift might chime in.
I have a 10-2 foot-high ceiling in my garage. I want to install a four-post lift (Rotary Revolution RFP8).
From what I've read online, there are quite a number of people installing lifts with only 10 feet or so of clearance and making it work.
I need to stack up an E36 M3 and an E46 M3 for storage.
Car on top - E36 M3: 52 inches height (lowered).
Ramp height: 4.5 inches.
Car on the bottom - E46 M3: 54 inches height.
Clearance between bottom car and ramps overhead: I figure 6 inches to be on the safe side.
Total: 116.5
That leaves 5.5 inches of clearance between the top car and the ceiling.
I don't see how that can realistically work given the usual 4-inch spacing between the catches and having to go up a bit to release them,
unless you leave 2 inches of clearance between the bottom car and the overhead ramps. Is that feasible?
If someone is making it work with ~10 feet, I'd like to hear how it's possible. Thanks!Last edited by GS-skiracer; 05-02-2021, 09:36 AM.
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A 4 post lift is for storage. Once you bang your head on the ramps...you'll wish you got that 2 post.
Buy the 2 post if you plan on ever disassembling the car. For a 2 post lift, you have to follow the manufacturers guideline for concrete strength. Might have to install sonotubes if the garage floor isn't thick enough or strong enough (I think you need something like a 5k pour). You can certainly store a car under a 2 post if you have enough ceiling height. Also need to factor in the need to raise the garage door.
For anything wheels on, I'd just use hub stands. I've also seen a shop use 4 rollable stands where you level the stands and lower the car on top. Kind of a pain but if you're doing alignments then hub stands makes life the easiest.
I have access to 2 post and 4 post lifts. The only task I do on a 4 post is alignments (its a Hunter alignment rack). I'd rather drive the car onto ramps and do a string alignment. But the Hunter machine makes it so easy and I can get the alignment done in about 15 - 20 minutes. Although a string alignment is far superior. The roller jacks severely limit access. I could put the car onto jack stands but I'd have the car up and underbdody panels off on a 2 post before I even start on a 4 post. Also, much darker under the car with a 4 post.
2 post lifts...I can roll a cart underneath with tools and parts. No need to walk back and forth...far easier. And less likely to hit my head.
But 2 posts do require regular maintenance and inspections even if only used infrequently. A failure will not be good. A 4 post is much safer. Most of us hobbyist work alone so something to consider as well.
Last edited by bigjae46; 05-02-2021, 10:08 AM.
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I am still trying to plan dropping the rear end as one unit on the 4 post lift, the rear posts/horizontal bar may get in the way of getting the rear end out from under the vehicle.2004 Silbergrau Metallic 6MT
Karbonius/OEM Snorkel/Flap/HTE Tuned
Ssv1/Catted Sec. 1/SS 2.5" Sec. 2/SCZA
OE CSL Bootlid/AS SSK/BC Coils/4.10 Gears/ Sportline 8S Wheels/Cobra Nogaros
RACP Plates/Vincebar/CMP/Turner RTAB/Beisan
2006 M6 Black Saphire SMG
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Originally posted by Obioban View PostWas just doing an alignment/corner balance, and loving the quick jack/4 post combo.
Are you lowering the car onto sclaes using the quickjack for the corner balance?
Is the graduated cylinder meant to be some kind of water level?
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Originally posted by eacmen View Post
Am i the only one trying to figure out what’s going on with the scales and graduated cylinder in that photo?
Are you lowering the car onto sclaes using the quickjack for the corner balance?
Is the graduated cylinder meant to be some kind of water level?
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
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Originally posted by R717 View PostNice job with the water level. Just curious - have you seen different results with the car rolled into scales vs dropped onto them? I've always understood the car should roll onto the scales, and that lowering from a lifted position artificially loads the suspension and gives wonky numbers.
2005 IR/IR M3 Coupe
2012 LMB/Black 128i
2008 Black/Black M5 Sedan
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Originally posted by GS-skiracer View PostOkay, guys, help me out with the math here. I'm hoping those of you with a lift might chime in.
I have a 10-2 foot-high ceiling in my garage. I want to install a four-post lift (Rotary Revolution RFP8).
From what I've read online, there are quite a number of people installing lifts with only 10 feet or so of clearance and making it work.
I need to stack up an E36 M3 and an E46 M3 for storage.
Car on top - E36 M3: 52 inches height (lowered).
Ramp height: 4.5 inches.
Car on the bottom - E46 M3: 54 inches height.
Clearance between bottom car and ramps overhead: I figure 6 inches to be on the safe side.
Total: 116.5
That leaves 5.5 inches of clearance between the top car and the ceiling.
I don't see how that can realistically work given the usual 4-inch spacing between the catches and having to go up a bit to release them,
unless you leave 2 inches of clearance between the bottom car and the overhead ramps. Is that feasible?
If someone is making it work with ~10 feet, I'd like to hear how it's possible. Thanks!
May want to shrink your “on the safe side” measurement.
MikeLast edited by nuc1; 05-02-2021, 05:54 PM.02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
16 X5
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Anyone have any tips/places to source parts for lifting a garage door. I have had a wall mount garage door opener sitting for 2 years now and haven't found any store with dedicated "garage lifting" parts.2003.5 E46 M3 Silver Grey/Cinnamon
MCS - Vorshlag - GC - Hotchkis - Supersprint - BBS - Brembo - Dinan - PSMax - SDW - VinceBar - DMG - Haimus - Karbonius - AEM
http://www.instagram.com/sid_e46/
Journal: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...grey-speed-run
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Originally posted by nuc1 View Post
I had about 2 inches clearance between the Tundra and bottom of the ramps. The lift doesn’t move down when it’s on the locks. The Tundra didn’t get any taller.
May want to shrink your “on the safe side” measurement.
Mike
And a heart attack every time I have to lift the platform to unhook it and lower it... 🤣
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Originally posted by GS-skiracer View Post
Thanks. That would give me 9.5 inches clearance between the top car and the garage ceiling.
And a heart attack every time I have to lift the platform to unhook it and lower it... 🤣
Mike
02 M3 Titanium Silver/Black
11 Tundra SuperWhite/Black
16 X5
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