No comment. Don't want to deflate the thread any further.
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e46 M3 suspension setup, or how to not downgrade your car with suspension mods
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DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
/// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint
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Originally posted by eacmen View Post
3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop
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Originally posted by oceansize View Post
Obioban was there some doc whereby it stated that after the 13.5F/13R heights we then need to correct for revised suspension geometry?
Follow up question, how does the car behave under compression where it goes beneath that ride height factor? From this video, after the arms go beyond 90deg we gain positive camber and a host of other unwanted behaviours.2006 Silber Grau Metalizat ZCP 6 MT
M-texture (F2AT) - Turner CSL V2/CatCams 280 272/SSv1/SS Sec1/Sec2 dual res/SCZA TI (raw) - FatCat stage 3 ult 400f/784r - Vorshlag - EC7r 18x9.5 ET35/CRS 275/35/18 - RacingBrake BBK/MileEnd CSL bumper/Vorsteiner Trunk/Cobra Nogaro Circuit Mtexture/GC RCA/YURKan Cages/Hotchkiss/Vibra-technics/
IG: https://www.instagram.com/htrlo/
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Originally posted by CrisSilberGrau View PostPretty eye opening stuff, seems like a lot of work to really dial in this car and conversely mad easy to royally mess it up.2008 M3 Sedan 6MT
Slicktop, no iDrive | Öhlins by 3DM Motorsport | Autosolutions | SPL
2012 Mazda5 6MT
Koni Special Active, Volvo parts
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Originally posted by IamFODI View PostAbsolutely. As with most mods, especially on a car that’s as good stock as the E46 M3. Wish this were more widely understood and appreciated.
If you want to go lower, everything needs to be calculated and setup accordingly in the proper ride height ranges if you care about performance. Just going low for looks does not work. If you setup can't take bumps at 80mph without the car getting upset, your suspension is not able to properly do its job to control the chassis.
Ian is 100% right with this stuff and I have hundreds of hours testing this stuff on both my cars as well as guidance from a suspension engineer that this stuff is indeed true.2003 E46 M3 TiAg/Cinnamon 6MT
2005 E46 330i ZHP Imola/Sand
| Karbonius | Schrick | Supertech | Volk | Recaro | FCM | SuperSprint | Turner | Hyperco | GC | PFC | VAC | OMP | Radium Engineering | MPRacing |
Instagram:@thegenius46m
NorCal DME Programming and Coding Expert
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Originally posted by eacmen View PostGreat podcast episode with Mike Kojima. Suspension guru extraordinaire. Highly recommend a listen:
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcas...=1000577379915
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Originally posted by oceansize View Post2003 Imola Red M3 w/ SMG
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Originally posted by eacmen View Post
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Originally posted by eacmen View Post
Curious. What info did you find misleading?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-They both agreed that spring rates were a bad way to talk about spring selection due to varied motion ratios, but then proceeded to speak in terms of spring rates. Mike was not forthcoming with his perspective on ride frequency.
-The "4 clicks in, 1 click out" can cause a lot of confusion because every shock is completely different. 8 clicks on one brand might equal 1 click on another. Some adjusters do almost nothing and others have dramatic effects. More importantly, if you aren't in the ballpark to begin with you're wasting your time. I've wasted a LOT of time turning adjusters when in reality I was not even in the ballpark to begin with.
Just generalizations that people might think they can apply to their vehicle, A few more disclaimers would have helped
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