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heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

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    Nov 2021

    Car needed an oil change soon and I was scheduled to go get Paul Claude to dyno tune the car, so I decided to do it before getting on the dyno. Problem was, I had been out of town and only had a day to do it after getting back and heading to the dyno. Decided to do it anyway because it's just and oil change, what can go wrong?

    Well this went wrong:

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    The drain bolt never felt weird going in or out on previous oil changes, so not entirely sure what happened there. Regardless, oil pan was stripped, so I rescheduled the dyno stuff and ordered a timesert kit with the appropriate 9.2mm length insert.

    Drilled out the stripped threads:

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    Used the tap (and guide) to tap some threads for the insert:

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    Then inserted the insert and used red loctite on it too. Unfortunately, the insert ended up slightly crooked even though I had tried to keep everything as straight as possible. I didn't trust that the resulting mating surface would seal, so had to do something about that.

    Fortunately, I figured that drilling and tapping by hand into aluminum while laying on my back might result in this, so alongside the repair kit, I also ordered a timesert tool that effectively mills the surface flat. It goes on around the inserting tool and slowly grinds away material to make a flat surface.

    Here's the inserting tool in, the other tool goes over this:

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    And the resulting surface after many passes:

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    The tool itself was pretty big, so I did run into some clearance issues with the cover next to the drain hole, but I just shaved it down slightly with a dremel. I think later oil pans have these two components spaced further apart, so this should only be an issue on early cars.

    Final result:

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    No leaks!

    Was feeling pretty good with the repair, so of course something had to come and ruin the fun. Was driving down the highway a couple days later and someone decided to merge in front of me and slam on their brakes. Braked hard and swerved right (into an empty lane) to avoid a head on collision, but unfortunately did manage to hit their rear bumper a little. The damage:

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    Managed to get most of it out with some buffing, but the paint did crack around the reflector hole. I filled in the cracks as best I could with Dr. ColorChip and it came out quite well:

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    Not perfect, but the bumper needs a respray anyway so whatever. Fender got pushed in slightly, but I managed to pull it back with just my fingers, not a big deal at all. The damn reflector that I spent forever painting did die though:

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    I truly hate painting stuff (or more accurately, I hate how bad I am at it), so I just bought a painted reflector set from IND this time.
    2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

    2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

    Comment


      Jan 2022

      New wheels!

      Got some 18s for the street, as the 19s were quite tiring on rough roads and I wanted less unsprung mass. Tires are PS4Ss (which were not easy to source).

      Front: 18x8.5" ET35 Race Silver APEX EC-7 with 235/40/18
      Rear: 18x9.5" ET22 Race Silver APEX EC-7 with 265/35/18

      Car looks great and (most importantly) rides a looot better.

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      Here's some weight data:

      Front (each):
      • Wheel 18": 20.4 lbs
      • Tire 18": 21.6 lbs
      • Wheel + tire 18": 42.1 lbs
      • Wheel + tire 19": 47.9 lbs
      Rear (each):
      • Wheel + tire 18": 47.1 lbs
      • Wheel + tire 19": 53.0 lbs
      Saved 5.8 lbs per corner up front and 5.9 lbs per corner in the rear. Not bad!

      Buut of course something had to happen. Drove for probably 200 mi before finding this in my left rear tire:

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      Ridiculous. Got it patched and all is good.


      At some point, I also took my rear seats out, so I took the opportunity to test fit the Slon wall with the VinceBar cups in place. Looks great, but unfortunately does not fit that well because of the extra material that the cups add. Cups will need some grinding, but that shouldn't be terrible.

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      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

      Comment


        Feb 2022

        Played hide and seek with some tools:

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        (yes it was a 10mm)


        Then went to an autox in Sonoma with some others from here and guess what I found in my left rear tire.

        Another screw! wtf

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        Second patch on that tire in less than like 800 mi:

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        Ridiculous. Oh well, got it patched at the track and was back down at the event 20 min later.


        And the latest thing I've done is cleaned my seats. Always a pleasant activity:

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        (yes, I vacuumed the carpets when I was done with the seats)

        Not looking too bad for 130k mi!

        Aaaand caught back up to the present day.
        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

        Comment


          Awesome updates Heinz!!!! Can't wait to see the that Slon Workshop panel in place - such a unique and awesome piece.

          That timesert repair in the oil pan, you deserve at least 2 beers for that. That's stellar.

          Also, you're apparently a magnet for getting screwed. No more comment.

          Build thread: Topaz Blue to Shark Blue​

          Comment


            Thanks man! Excited for the Slon wall as well. I'm going to start buying parts for the carbon roof conversion (I'm tired of not fitting well with a helmet) and then install both things at once. Hopefully that will happen within the next six months or so.

            Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
            Also, you're apparently a magnet for getting screwed. No more comment.
            Lol, this will be my new response whenever someone asks me why I'm purposefully driving over screws.
            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

            Comment


              Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
              Saved 5.8 lbs per corner up front and 5.9 lbs per corner in the rear. Not bad!
              One thing I forgot to mention was that I bought a special version of PS4Ss for the front.

              Apex only had the rears in stock, so I ended up buying the fronts on tirerack and getting them mounted locally. When browsing for 235/40/18 PS4Ss, I found that tirerack had two different versions with different prices. Description was identical, except one said "DT1 Different Tread". Looking at the specs, everything was the same, except for tread depth, price and weight. The DT1 tires said they had 1/64" less thread depth and were about $20 more per tire. Additionally, according to Michelin, the DT1 tires each weigh 1.89 lbs less!

              $20 for almost 2 lbs less per tire, yeah, no brainer.

              IIRC, I ended up reading somewhere that the DT1 tires are an OE tire for a Fiesta ST. I did try looking for something similar with the rear tires, but there was unfortunately only one version. Still, pretty happy I stumbled onto some cheap and simple weight savings.
              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

              Comment


                Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

                One thing I forgot to mention was that I bought a special version of PS4Ss for the front.

                Apex only had the rears in stock, so I ended up buying the fronts on tirerack and getting them mounted locally. When browsing for 235/40/18 PS4Ss, I found that tirerack had two different versions with different prices. Description was identical, except one said "DT1 Different Tread". Looking at the specs, everything was the same, except for tread depth, price and weight. The DT1 tires said they had 1/64" less thread depth and were about $20 more per tire. Additionally, according to Michelin, the DT1 tires each weigh 1.89 lbs less!

                $20 for almost 2 lbs less per tire, yeah, no brainer.

                IIRC, I ended up reading somewhere that the DT1 tires are an OE tire for a Fiesta ST. I did try looking for something similar with the rear tires, but there was unfortunately only one version. Still, pretty happy I stumbled onto some cheap and simple weight savings.
                You done bought worn tires 😭
                DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                Comment


                  Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                  You done bought worn tires 😭
                  Lol I actually thought the same thing when I first stumbled upon them.

                  Ran some quick calculations before buying just to make sure I wasn't just paying more for less rubber.

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                  So just the difference in volume should amount to less than a pound of weight diff. There's still a whole other pound to account for between the normal and DT1 versions, so there must be some more differences to them.

                  To be 100% honest, these are street wheels so the weight difference between the tires doesn't really matter, but it's fun to pretend to be a racecar engineer/driver sometimes
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    not as wide prob? tires vary more than just "235" as you prob know.
                    Last edited by Tbonem3; 03-02-2022, 11:17 PM.
                    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
                      not as wide prob? tires vary more than just "235" as you prob know.
                      Potentially. The only difference Michelin lists on their website is the tread depth (and weight), so who knows
                      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                      Comment


                        Mar 2022

                        Did a track day in early March. Here's a couple paddock pics with a friend's car:

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                        And this is what the car looked like at the end of the day:

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                        I'm still finding dead bugs in random places. Found a bee in front of the engine air filter yesterday lol.

                        Track day went well, but I did discover and break a couple things. Here's a list for my own records:
                        • Brakes are getting way too hot, pads are getting consumed super quickly
                        • Rubber sliding pin bushings are deflecting too much under heavy braking, leading to tapered pad wear
                        • The stock seat does not hold me in place as well as it did when I was slower
                        • Fuel starvation starts happening at 1/2 a tank or lower on high g right handers
                        • High pressure power steering line is leaking and rubbing through my oil pan (!)
                        So, started checking stuff off the list. First off, power steering.

                        Swapped the one year old rein hose for a new genuine one. Even though Rein is listed as OE on FCP, they are definitely not the same part:

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                        All the metal parts look different and the hoses themselves have different marking on them. I measured the Rein fittings at 22 mm OD and the genuine fittings at 19 mm OD, which turned out to make a huge difference in the rubbing of the oil pan.

                        Rein clearance to oil pan:

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                        Genuine clearance to oil pan:

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                        The groove looks deeper than it is, probably because of the light. Not worried about it, but I definitely didn't want the lines to continue rubbing. And yes, I know the lines can be clocked differently to move them closer/further from the oil pan, but I'm pretty sure I put them in the sameish place. Could have very well been installer error on the Rein part, but the bigger fittings definitely didn't help.

                        While I was swapping that out, I decided to also shim the power steering pump pressure regulator. Added two shims for a ~25% reduction. Was surprisingly easy to do, even without a vise. Pic of the disassembled parts featuring the tools that got the thing apart:

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                        Two extra shims and some thread locker for good measure:

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                        When putting everything back together, I noticed the threads for the bolt that holds the line to the steering rack were half-stripped. There were still enough threads for a longer bolt, but the actual bolt just spun when tightening. I decided that instead of doing a timesert or tapping for a bigger bolt, I would install a stud with red loctite and attach the lines with a nyloc nut.

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                        Stud felt like it torqued up just fine. Pretty sure that the remaining threads plus the red loctite will keep it in place, but I loosely tied a ziptie around the lines just in case. I'll keep on eye on it and it does back out, I'll fix it properly.
                        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                        Comment


                          I also bought myself a Makita tire inflator for the track. It's not the most powerful thing, but I really like the size and it's compatible with all the batteries I have in the garage

                          There is one huge downside to it though. You can set the pressure that you want to it to inflate to and it will auto stop. However, there's no lock for the trigger, so you have to hold it down until it stops, which completely defeats the purpose of the auto stop. Nothing that can't be fixed though!

                          Started off by disassembling the thing and ordering a latching switch that matched the specs of what was on there:

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                          I thought it was weird that the switch was rated for so much current, but whatever, I just got one that matched the specs. It wasn't until I disassembled everything that I noticed the switch goes to some MOSFETs, which are what actually do the power delivery. In hindsight, I should have noticed the switch wasn't flowing much current just because of the gauge of the wires going to it. Oh well, I already had the overkill switch, so I just used that.

                          Dremeled out a slot for the new switch:

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                          Everything still fits inside, nice:

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                          Soldered and heat shrunk everything:

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                          Back together:

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                          Not bad! Doesn't look terribly out of place and, most importantly, now stays on without me holding the trigger.
                          2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                          2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                          Comment


                            Ordered a set of Schroth Quick Fit Pros and installed them on the car. Forgot to take pics, but I'll take some next time I'm at the track.

                            Install was super straight forward, but I can't say I love how the rear outboard attachments points get installed. The belt is attached to a longish metal tab that you're supposed to bend to get to line up the the bolster/rear bench. It took a bit of fiddling with it to get it to line up correctly and I was super paranoid about fatiguing the metal with the bending. I'm assuming it's done this way for parts sharing, but I would have liked it if Schroth pre-bent the brackets. I hate messing with seatbelt stuff, I always feel like I'm going to fatigue some part, which will end up killing me in a crash.

                            Oh well, I triple checked everything to satisfy my paranoia and it all looked good. Excited to see how these feel on track. Will also be getting a HANS soon to go along with them.

                            I took the opportunity to swap out the old, broken bolster bracket tab things with some new ones. Bolsters feel a bit more secure now, but I can't say it made an enormous difference since they were still wedged in between the seats before. Oh well, parts were cheap.

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                            Next up is addressing all the brake stuff. This is what my pads looked like after the last event:

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                            Bronze bushings are on the way and will get installed before the next track day. I also decided to ditch the Hawk pads for some PFC-11s (even though that means no free FCP replacements ). The anxiety of having the dust ruin my wheels/suspension components was just too high with the Hawk pads. Plus, I kinda hated how they felt until they were completely up to temp. Not confidence inspiring at all. Hopefully the new PFC pads address both these concerns.

                            Btw, those are DTC-60 pads with three track days (days, not events/weekends) on them. I know track use wears pads fast, but that wear is way too much IMO. You can tell they were getting really hot too, the paint flakes off if you touch it. Yes, maybe I still suck at driving on the track and I'm using the brakes too much, but I really want to make my next set of pads last longer, so brake ducts are also getting installed before the next track day (plus, why give up the opportunity for another project).

                            Ordered some 2.5" ducting and flanges. I plan on using the existing ducts next to the fog lights for now. I'd like to do a fog light delete, but I think it's a good idea to first quantify how much the ducts actually help before I spend a few days designing ducts and cutting up my bumper. I'm completely sure the ducts will help with brake temps, but I want to quantify exactly how much they do with just the smallish opening next to the fog lights. V2 will probably be custom ducts that use the same mounting as the stock ones but cover the entire duct area, including where the fog lights sit now.
                            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                            Comment


                              And of course I can't fix one thing with another one breaking. Was leaving for a cars and coffee this morning and got the red battery light. Measured the voltage at the battery and it was at 11.7V. Annoying, but at least it happened in the garage.

                              New Valeo alternator from FCP on the way.
                              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                              Comment


                                Made some progress on the brake ducts.

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                                Next step is to attach the aluminum flanges to the ducts somehow. Probably going to rivet them in and them fill in any gaps with some plastic epoxy.

                                Eagle eyed viewers will notice that the holes in the ducts look like I cut them out with a dremel and not a hole saw. Well, that's because I did. I initially thought I would use the blanks to "close" the ducts for the street, but I don't think that's gonna work. It was an absolute pain to do it that way, would not recommend.
                                2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                                2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

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