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    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    On another note, I've been running Bry5on's mullet tune for some weeks now and have nothing but positive things to say about it. I'd say it's about as big of a jump as it was when I did the lambda integrator part throttle fuel tuning. No more weird hesitation at lower RPMs (there was a very noticeable one at ~2.7k that seems to be gone now), downshifts are super consistent now and there's torque!

    I find myself downshifting a LOT less on the street now. Pretty great to have the car respond to throttle pedal inputs at lower RPMs. Feels very close to how I remember the stock tune (with stock hardware) feeling like. I'm super happy with the drivability and, as a bonus, my wideband is showing pretty much spot on AFRs everywhere.
    How’s your WOT AFR looking? It should be 12.5:1, slowly ramping down to 12:1 after about 6k rpm. I put a bunch of effort into changing the interpolation targets to smooth it out. Curious to see if it translated to your car with some of that funky higher rpm stuff you had going on.
    ‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion

    Comment


      Originally posted by Bry5on View Post

      How’s your WOT AFR looking? It should be 12.5:1, slowly ramping down to 12:1 after about 6k rpm. I put a bunch of effort into changing the interpolation targets to smooth it out. Curious to see if it translated to your car with some of that funky higher rpm stuff you had going on.
      To be honest, I haven't gotten any logs out of the car yet to be able to make any truly data backed claims. I try to go out one of these days and grab some though.

      But yes, from looking at the gauge while driving, they're between 12-13:1 at WOT and right around stoic everywhere else.
      2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

      2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

      Comment


        Alright finally pulled some data off of Gauge.s

        Here's two WOT pulls.

        2nd gear:

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        And 3rd:

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        Looks like it's following the pattern you described Bry5on, although it does seem to go to 13 at some points. Not a huge concern really for engine health. And hard to say that this is how it behaves always with just two datapoints.

        I did also take a much longer data log on a day that I drove up the bay, which should give a good idea of part throttle behavior (had to cut out columns as file was past the datazap size limit):

        Click image for larger version  Name:	Mullet Long Normal Drive Up the Bay.png Views:	0 Size:	209.5 KB ID:	265479


        As expected, lots of stoic!

        Also, seeing 40 C IATs at ~70 mph isn't great. I really need to print myself a brake duct -> airbox snorkel adapter to help with that.
        Last edited by heinzboehmer; 05-22-2024, 03:04 PM.
        2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

        2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

        Comment


          Curve looks about right, but a bit leaner than mine around 6k and above 7.5k. I wonder if that’s because I have a pretty restrictive e36 muffler. AFRs generally look pretty safe though.

          You should log engine speed with CAN instead of the k-bus. Much higher sample rate and it’ll be timed better with the AFR log.

          And with the brake-snorkel duct at 70mph I’m seeing about +4-5C above ambient, it makes a big difference.
          ‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion

          Comment


            Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
            You should log engine speed with CAN instead of the k-bus. Much higher sample rate and it’ll be timed better with the AFR log.
            Oh good call, for some reason I have it set to not log. Need to change that.

            Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
            And with the brake-snorkel duct at 70mph I’m seeing about +4-5C above ambient, it makes a big difference.
            Awesome. Project added to list!
            2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

            2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

            Comment


              Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
              On another note, I've been running Bry5on's mullet tune for some weeks now and have nothing but positive things to say about it. I'd say it's about as big of a jump as it was when I did the lambda integrator part throttle fuel tuning. No more weird hesitation at lower RPMs (there was a very noticeable one at ~2.7k that seems to be gone now), downshifts are super consistent now and there's torque!

              I find myself downshifting a LOT less on the street now. Pretty great to have the car respond to throttle pedal inputs at lower RPMs. Feels very close to how I remember the stock tune (with stock hardware) feeling like. I'm super happy with the drivability and, as a bonus, my wideband is showing pretty much spot on AFRs everywhere.
              Is this tune available for public beta testing Bry5on Heinz is running the same setup as me down to the PCS tune, which I am happy with generally minus the fact that some of the adaptations/long term fuel trims are off. Been meaning to do the part throttle integrator tuning too.

              Comment


                Originally posted by repoman89 View Post

                Is this tune available for public beta testing Bry5on Heinz is running the same setup as me down to the PCS tune, which I am happy with generally minus the fact that some of the adaptations/long term fuel trims are off. Been meaning to do the part throttle integrator tuning too.
                Shoot me a PM and we can work something out It’s pretty dialed in at this point.
                ‘02 332iT / 6 | ‘70 Jaguar XJ6 electric conversion

                Comment


                  Bit more messing around with Gauge.S. Turns out it's got an internal pullup resistor (R13, 510 ohm) for the D bus that messes with flashing/other DME diag tasks (no I didn't brick my car's DME in the work parking lot, what are you talking about). So I swapped it out for one of a larger value (10k ohm):

                  Click image for larger version

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                  All Gauge.S features still work just fine and now I can flash my car without disconnecting the unit!

                  I then figured out how to get brake pressure data from the MK60 (more info here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...4#post266734):

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Unfortunately, it requires sending out a D bus that's request different to the DME one, so displaying this alongside the DME parameters is not currently supported. Fortunately, Maciej (aka sorek, Gauge.S creator) is working on adding this feature to the firmware and it should be available soon!

                  I did also cave and ended up buying V5.1 of the board, as I wanted the upgraded hardware so that I could configure a stupid amount of parameters and not have the thing crash in wifi mode:

                  Click image for larger version

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                  But of course nothing ever goes to plan and the new board doesn't work with the MSS54HP for whatever reason. It can communicate just fine with the MK60, so I'm fairly certain it's a firmware issue. Looks like I'm the first one to come across this, so waiting for my new logic analyzer to arrive to do some proper debugging.

                  And now moving on from electronics to interior stuff.

                  The fabric dye I used to dye the stitches on the Nogaros black was starting to wear off in high contact areas, so I gave it a quick touchup:

                  Click image for larger version

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                  As long as you wipe the fabric marker off the vinyl quickly enough (on the order of a minute), it will not penetrate it at all, so retouching is super easy. Just sloppily paint over the stitches and then wipe away the excess. Took me ~5 min to do both seats.

                  Afterwards I swapped in something that I've been wanting to for ages. New steering wheel!

                  Click image for larger version

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                  I realized I really liked the feel of an alcantara wheel after driving the grey ZCP car around for a while. However, I didn't love the grey alcantara on the ZCP wheel. I considered getting the ZHP wheel since it's ~$600 brand new, but for some reason I really wanted to keep the tricolor stitching (it's probably the only bit of color that I want in the interior). So instead, I opted for a wheel from Maar Handels GmbH (aka Tainik) in 9040 alcantara. Was $700 after tax and shipping from Germany, so about the same as the ZHP one, except with the tricolor stitching.

                  I'm honestly very impressed with the quality of the wheel. It's not 100% identical to the wheel that came with the car, but it's very, very, very close. So close that it's practically impossible to tell the difference once it's on the car. Here's some comparison pics:

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                  And the best part about this wheel is that the old leather was removed and it's actually been rewrapped properly! None of that "rewrap over the existing leather" nonsense:

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Overall extremely pleased with it. We'll see how much I come to hate regularly cleaning an alcantara wheel soon...
                  2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                  2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
                    Bit more messing around with Gauge.S. Turns out it's got an internal pullup resistor (R13, 510 ohm) for the D bus that messes with flashing/other DME diag tasks (no I didn't brick my car's DME in the work parking lot, what are you talking about). So I swapped it out for one of a larger value (10k ohm):

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240530_004450.jpg
Views:	241
Size:	150.9 KB
ID:	269020
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240530_005137.jpg
Views:	208
Size:	143.0 KB
ID:	269021

                    All Gauge.S features still work just fine and now I can flash my car without disconnecting the unit!

                    I then figured out how to get brake pressure data from the MK60 (more info here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...4#post266734):

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240604_011154.jpg
Views:	206
Size:	125.5 KB
ID:	269022

                    Unfortunately, it requires sending out a D bus that's request different to the DME one, so displaying this alongside the DME parameters is not currently supported. Fortunately, Maciej (aka sorek, Gauge.S creator) is working on adding this feature to the firmware and it should be available soon!

                    I did also cave and ended up buying V5.1 of the board, as I wanted the upgraded hardware so that I could configure a stupid amount of parameters and not have the thing crash in wifi mode:

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240619_161033.jpg
Views:	209
Size:	278.2 KB
ID:	269023

                    But of course nothing ever goes to plan and the new board doesn't work with the MSS54HP for whatever reason. It can communicate just fine with the MK60, so I'm fairly certain it's a firmware issue. Looks like I'm the first one to come across this, so waiting for my new logic analyzer to arrive to do some proper debugging.

                    And now moving on from electronics to interior stuff.

                    The fabric dye I used to dye the stitches on the Nogaros black was starting to wear off in high contact areas, so I gave it a quick touchup:

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240601_190103.jpg
Views:	201
Size:	61.6 KB
ID:	269024
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240601_191038.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	66.2 KB
ID:	269025

                    As long as you wipe the fabric marker off the vinyl quickly enough (on the order of a minute), it will not penetrate it at all, so retouching is super easy. Just sloppily paint over the stitches and then wipe away the excess. Took me ~5 min to do both seats.

                    Afterwards I swapped in something that I've been wanting to for ages. New steering wheel!

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240621_162518.jpg
Views:	208
Size:	134.5 KB
ID:	269026
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240621_162647.jpg
Views:	208
Size:	122.3 KB
ID:	269027

                    I realized I really liked the feel of an alcantara wheel after driving the grey ZCP car around for a while. However, I didn't love the grey alcantara on the ZCP wheel. I considered getting the ZHP wheel since it's ~$600 brand new, but for some reason I really wanted to keep the tricolor stitching (it's probably the only bit of color that I want in the interior). So instead, I opted for a wheel from Maar Handels GmbH (aka Tainik) in 9040 alcantara. Was $700 after tax and shipping from Germany, so about the same as the ZHP one, except with the tricolor stitching.

                    I'm honestly very impressed with the quality of the wheel. It's not 100% identical to the wheel that came with the car, but it's very, very, very close. So close that it's practically impossible to tell the difference once it's on the car. Here's some comparison pics:

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240621_160501.jpg
Views:	207
Size:	178.2 KB
ID:	269028
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240621_160538.jpg
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ID:	269029
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ID:	269030
                    Click image for larger version

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Views:	210
Size:	144.9 KB
ID:	269031
                    Click image for larger version

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ID:	269032
                    Click image for larger version

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ID:	269033
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ID:	269034
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ID:	269035
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ID:	269036
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240621_155926.jpg
Views:	209
Size:	143.6 KB
ID:	269037

                    And the best part about this wheel is that the old leather was removed and it's actually been rewrapped properly! None of that "rewrap over the existing leather" nonsense:

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240621_160036.jpg
Views:	207
Size:	91.5 KB
ID:	269038

                    Overall extremely pleased with it. We'll see how much I come to hate regularly cleaning an alcantara wheel soon...
                    Not even mine but I’m also extremely pleased with it . Quality looks top-notch!

                    Comment


                      That quality looks really nice but out of curiosity, why didn’t you go with probably the most commonly known guy that does steering wheel refurb, cobywheel?

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by BADCLOWN View Post
                        That quality looks really nice but out of curiosity, why didn’t you go with probably the most commonly known guy that does steering wheel refurb, cobywheel?
                        the difference in stitching quality is pretty great between the two. if you can spare the extra money, it’s a no brainer to go with maar handels gmbh. not trying to bad mouth coby stuff, but the stitching on the maar stuff is immaculate.
                        /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

                        Comment


                          Can you elaborate on that? I obviously haven’t experienced the product from the aforementioned company but have had two cobywheels (one in my former ZHP and one in my current) and I think the quality is excellent. Just curious what the difference is, that’s all. Cobywheel always seemed to be the “go to”.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by BADCLOWN View Post
                            Can you elaborate on that? I obviously haven’t experienced the product from the aforementioned company but have had two cobywheels (one in my former ZHP and one in my current) and I think the quality is excellent. Just curious what the difference is, that’s all. Cobywheel always seemed to be the “go to”.
                            Sure, of course. I think if you care about the M-stitching stuff, I think it might matter more. My design vision may have overdone the M-stitching stuff, but I found out the hard way that none of the M-stitching shown in the photos from most vendors was not right at all. Most of them looked like how the Coby one arrived...which isn't bad, it just has a bit more spacing than I would like. You can see from the photos below for the comparison. This is the reason I ultimately purchased the maar handels steering wheel which was a few hundred more.

                            Maar handels customer service is actually really great too...I realized my e-brake handle and boot had the stitching not properly aligned in terms of colors. they just sent me a new boot on the house.

                            COBY E-brake Boot

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                            Maar Handels E-brake Boot

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                            Attached Files
                            /// 2004 SG/IR - Build Thread

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by BADCLOWN View Post
                              That quality looks really nice but out of curiosity, why didn’t you go with probably the most commonly known guy that does steering wheel refurb, cobywheel?
                              Yep, exactly what ugaexploder said.

                              Basically boils down to me being picky.
                              2002 Topasblau M3 - Coupe - 6MT - Karbonius CSL Airbox - MSS54HP Conversion - Kassel MAP - SSV1 - HJS - PCS Tune - Beisan - MK60 Swap - ZCP Rack - Nogaros - AutoSolutions - 996 Brembos - Slon - CMP - VinceBar - Koni - Eibach - BlueBus - Journal

                              2012 Alpinweiss 128i - Coupe - 6AT - Slicktop - Manual Seats - Daily - Journal

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by BADCLOWN View Post
                                Can you elaborate on that? I obviously haven’t experienced the product from the aforementioned company but have had two cobywheels (one in my former ZHP and one in my current) and I think the quality is excellent. Just curious what the difference is, that’s all. Cobywheel always seemed to be the “go to”.
                                Coby wheels are wrapped over the existing leather making them slightly thicker. Not sure about anyone else, but stock is already borderline too thick. It's more work to take the old leather off and rewrap from the bare wheel, but you can see the difference in the end result. Based on the pictures, Tanik's work is on par with OE, but a few hundred bucks less - 700 vs 1000.

                                Comment

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