heinzboehmer's 2002 Topaz 6MT Coupe

[maupineda]

Only works with copper crush washers. Heat with a torch until just glowing red and then submerge in water.

Works on Al too

[Bry5on]

Works on Al too

Most 0-state (assumption here that crush washers are 0-state) aluminum alloys should get stronger after an anneal and quench cycle, no? Anneal and air cool will maintain the anneal. At least 2xxx, 6xxx and 7xxx series alloys behave this way.

Actually, looks like 5xxx is indeed similar to copper and does not harden with quenching, so you’re right for a 5xxx, which is almost certainly what an aluminum crush washer is made from. Learn something new every day!

[ApexPothole]

I've found that the torch trick works with Al crush washers as well, its just harder to judge temp with them as they will melt before glowing noticeably. With a propane torch, I just get them glowing and quench.

[Slideways]

Lots of RTV...like a real pro would do! 🤣

A friend of mine had his tensioner crossthreaded. Real pros

Somehow, Dan Avon was able to fix it by ordering a custom tap IIRC.

[heinzboehmer]

Huh, I like the annealing idea, had not thought of that. I'll try that in the future, thanks guys.

What brand?

You may be right. I've installed thousands (?) of crush washers and I can generally "feel" them crush. I've also reused them, without issue, but if they aren't getting crushed fully or are reused then maybe?

Its actually super easy to torque with the right setup: 3/8" flex head, 3/8 - 1/2 adapter, 32mm socket. Tons of room.

Genuine BMW.

And yep, the flex head on the torque wrench really makes a difference. I wouldn't be surprised if most shops are just loosely torquing by hand with whatever tool then can get in there and calling it good.

[heinzboehmer]

Also, to the surprise of absolutely no one, the slathered RTV approach did not work.

Sooo this is printing now:




I plan on transferring both the seal and the metal retainer over from the cheapo cap.

I also plan on printing it in the orientation shown in the first pic, so that the perimeters of the NPT threads are one continuous extrusion and the part doesn't split as soon as I screw something into them. Unfortunately, this means that if the part sees a failure along the layer lines, there's a chance that the metal retainer (and some plastic debris) will drop down into the engine.

Scenario above is probably unlikely, but it makes me paranoid, so I added features for four M3 screws to reinforce the part. Easier to see in a cross section: