Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Immaculate low mileage 2004 Silver Grey CSL Inspired Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    After a year of researching body shops in my area, I found Dave at Premier Motorsport in Carson California by pure chance. Dave focuses on high end restoration of vintage and modern Ferraris. I dropped into his shop unannounced and he not only welcomed me, but gave me an hour of his time to discuss the project. He even gave me a tour of his shop, which was unreal. Behind the showroom stacked with supercars is a paint production area that’s even more impressive. It was ridiculously clean, sterile clean, with plastic curtains separating the different areas of the workspace. It seemed more like a science lab than a body shop. Multiple F40s, F50s, and a slew modern and vintage Ferraris, it was mind blowing. I wanted to take photos of the production area but it just didn’t seem appropriate. I did take some photos of his waiting area though.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2816.jpg Views:	0 Size:	157.0 KB ID:	306342
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2814.jpg Views:	0 Size:	177.7 KB ID:	306344
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2309.jpg Views:	0 Size:	194.0 KB ID:	306345


    Although Dave doesn’t normally work on BMWs, he agreed to take on the project. He cited my level of enthusiasm and how well kept the car was as the main reasons he wanted to work on it. After picking his brain for an hour, I could tell that he is probably one of the best painters in California and was absolutely the right man for the job. Dave is such a perfectionist that he wanted to do all of the fitting of the components to ensure it was to his standard. I advised him of this build project, build thread and my desire to work on the car myself. We came to an agreement where I would do all of the disassembly and test fitment so it could be documented, then I would bring it to him for sign off prior to paint. Dave would handle the paint, wet sand, and finish work, then hand the car back off to me for reassembly, final polish and ceramic coating.

    We agreed on a price and start date a couple weeks out. This expedited my disassembly and preparation process.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2817.jpg Views:	0 Size:	139.3 KB ID:	306343
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2818.jpg Views:	0 Size:	175.8 KB ID:	306348
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2821.jpg Views:	0 Size:	172.3 KB ID:	306347
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2823.jpg Views:	0 Size:	194.5 KB ID:	306346


    You are probably wondering why I’m disassembling the entire passenger side of the car for a CSL front bumper, trunk lid and diffuser. When I first bought the car, the seller was transparent about the passenger side quarter possibly being painted by a previous owner. From what I could tell in photos and videos sent by the seller, the paint work was done incredibly well, and I was okay with it. Texture, color match, etc were all done with great attention to detail.

    When I received the car, the paint was as advertised. Zero masking lines, orange peel was super accurate and the color match was about 90-95% accurate. Whoever did the paint did an outstanding job. That said, I found a tiny burn through in the clear coat where the rear arch meets the rear bumper and another one on the edge where the quarter panel meets the taillight.

    Based on what I know about detailing and finish work, it appeared the body shop mowed down the entire panel with the massive rotary machine and wool pad. While rotaries make quick work of defects, especially in large areas, they can be incredibly risky on edges and adjoining panels. While 99% of people would never notice the burn through it bothered me and I wanted it fixed. It was also a good opportunity to go from 90-95% color match to near 100%.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2824.jpg Views:	0 Size:	164.1 KB ID:	306349
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2825.jpg Views:	0 Size:	120.3 KB ID:	306350

    After discussion with Dave, we decided to paint essentially the whole rear: trunk lid, rear bumper, rear diffuser, passenger’s side rear quarter including door jamb and a-pillar, and side skirt. This was the only way we could ensure perfect color match with the new components, while simultaneously repairing the rear quarter panel. In order to do this right, the front fender, front door, side glass and trim would need to be removed.

    My little gremlins had some serious morning energy. I put them to work and made a 30 minute job of cleaning the wheel well liners into a 2-hour job. This of course included playing in the mud, and bath time.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2861.jpg Views:	0 Size:	393.4 KB ID:	306351


    I then moved on and pulled the windshield seals. The rear came off really easily and gave me false confidence for the front. The front was extremely difficult to get off. Parts of it came off without issue, but many parts of it required numerous tries and f-bombs to get it out. It came out in 10+ pieces, and I had to take multiple breaks in-between, but the job got done.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2856.jpg Views:	0 Size:	145.4 KB ID:	306352
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2858.jpg Views:	0 Size:	117.0 KB ID:	306353
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2862.jpg Views:	0 Size:	195.8 KB ID:	306354


    Afterward, I cleaned the channels really well and flushed them with hot water.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2863.jpg Views:	0 Size:	89.1 KB ID:	306355
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2864.jpg Views:	0 Size:	113.9 KB ID:	306356


    Up next was the rear quarter window and shadowline window trim. This required some interior panels to be removed, but overall the job was pretty easy.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2865.jpg Views:	0 Size:	167.1 KB ID:	306358
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2867.jpg Views:	0 Size:	142.4 KB ID:	306357


    Once the window was out, I could remove the rubber window seal, then the shadowline trim.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2868.jpg Views:	0 Size:	137.2 KB ID:	306359
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2870.jpg Views:	0 Size:	136.3 KB ID:	306360


    Next the lower rubber trim that sits on the quarter panel itself. The trim came off really easily but the adhesive was stubborn as hell. It required multiple rounds of adhesive remover soak then scrape with a plastic razor blade.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2871.jpg Views:	0 Size:	107.7 KB ID:	306362
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2872.jpg Views:	0 Size:	142.1 KB ID:	306363
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2877.jpg Views:	0 Size:	94.6 KB ID:	306361


    Here is the car almost fully stripped and ready for paint. I left a lot of little notes around the car for the painters. For example, how I wanted the CSL diffuser painted, how to remove the bumpers, and little areas that I felt needed extra attention.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2992.jpg Views:	0 Size:	144.5 KB ID:	306364
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3091.jpg Views:	0 Size:	143.1 KB ID:	306365
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3093.jpg Views:	0 Size:	176.4 KB ID:	306366
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2994.jpg Views:	0 Size:	102.4 KB ID:	306368
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2995.jpg Views:	0 Size:	109.7 KB ID:	306367

    In preparation for the return of the car, I purchased a ton of new clips, grommets, seals, screws, expanding rivets, etc. Sadly, this is what $400 of new genuine BMW hardware looks like, most of it you’ll never see.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3187.jpg Views:	6 Size:	267.6 KB ID:	306369
    Last edited by Avedis; 05-25-2025, 12:25 PM.

    Comment


      Crazy impressive work as always! Looking forward to the next update.

      Did you talk to the shop about paint brand? Glasurit yielded better(color match and clear coat quality) results than PPG in my recent experience and is what bmw factory uses afaik. If he's as good as you say then I'm sure you're covered either way!

      BTW this seems like a good time for a CF roof just sayin =)

      Comment


        Were there any issues or concerns with the MEs front bumper? I'm getting mine installed soon and just wondering if you found anything wrong or that needed corrected with it.

        Comment


          Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
          Crazy impressive work as always! Looking forward to the next update.

          Did you talk to the shop about paint brand? Glasurit yielded better(color match and clear coat quality) results than PPG in my recent experience and is what bmw factory uses afaik. If he's as good as you say then I'm sure you're covered either way!

          BTW this seems like a good time for a CF roof just sayin =)
          GLASURIT is top notch.

          Comment


            Originally posted by Kipjames3 View Post
            Were there any issues or concerns with the MEs front bumper? I'm getting mine installed soon and just wondering if you found anything wrong or that needed corrected with it.
            Mine fit like a glove right out of the box.
            Old, not obsolete.

            Comment


              In preparation for the return of the car, I purchased a ton of new clips, grommets, seals, screws, expanding rivets, etc. Sadly, this is what $400 of new genuine BMW hardware looks like, most of it you’ll never see.
              Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_3187.jpg Views:	6 Size:	267.6 KB ID:	306369[/QUOTE]

              Damn, I can attest to that. Hardware is not cheap for these E46 M3s. I am just glad mine was garage kept since new but even then, these cars are getting old and the hardware is breaking.
              2002 M3 Carbon Schwarz/Black 6MT

              Comment


                Continuing where I left off, prepping for paintwork. Lots of little loose ends, last minute removals, and notes added. My goal is to do as much as possible prior to drop off. Even though I genuinely believe Dave is one of the best painters in California, I have an inherent distrust in body shops. I’d rather remove the extra exterior trim piece or interior panel than risk accidental damage while the car is out of my hands.

                The passenger door will be getting removed by Dave just prior to paint. I disconnected the wiring harness, removed the CSL door panel, and reinstalled the interior door pull onto the bare door. Again, the goal is to make it as easy and safe as possible for Dave and his team.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3259.jpg Views:	0 Size:	153.7 KB ID:	308359
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3260.jpg Views:	0 Size:	159.1 KB ID:	308360
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3261.jpg Views:	0 Size:	226.2 KB ID:	308362


                Here is the passenger’s side prepped and ready to go.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3262.jpg Views:	0 Size:	166.2 KB ID:	308361


                Next, I prepared the CSL diffuser for paint. Most of you know this already, but the factory CSL diffuser has a valley line that separates the painted portion and unpainted portion of the diffuser. If you look really closely, you’ll see that the valley line is actually painted. I know it’s a small detail, but I absolutely hate how this was done from the factory. It looks like someone just did a really poor job masking, especially in the top portion. Below is an image I stole which shows what I’m rambling on about.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2671.png Views:	0 Size:	963.0 KB ID:	308363


                Again, my build is CSL inspired, not a CSL replica. I’m going to make a tiny (but in my eyes substantial) change by purposely not painting the valley line. Essentially I’m doing the opposite mask as the factory. I special ordered some super thin masking tape just so that I could show Dave how I wanted it masked without there being any assumptions or misinterpretation. I have issues, I know.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3263.jpg Views:	0 Size:	235.7 KB ID:	308366
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3265.jpg Views:	0 Size:	254.3 KB ID:	308365
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3264.jpg Views:	0 Size:	251.7 KB ID:	308364


                In the back of my head, I always had the idea of putting a German plate on the car, but I had no hard plans. In 2015, my wife did a European Delivery of her F30 335i. The car came with the German Zoll plates with Munich marking (first letter M), and tourist registration stamp. I thought it would be a fun idea to play off of this. I put one of her plates on the car then did a few digital mockups. I always tell my son that the M3 is going to be his car one day, so I settled on the plate M 3246 E. The letters being his initials, the 3246 for the displacement of the S54. The registration date is 10.11.21 which is his birthday.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3272.jpg Views:	0 Size:	154.2 KB ID:	308367


                While I was at it, I mocked up the a digital version of the plate, and the placement of the ///M3 badge on the trunk. This is what I settled on.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	M3_BADGE_PLACEMENT_MOCKUP_GUIDES.jpg Views:	0 Size:	112.8 KB ID:	308370
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3458.jpg Views:	0 Size:	110.7 KB ID:	308369

                I also toyed with the idea of doing an ///M3cs badge. Thoughts?
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3459.jpg Views:	0 Size:	110.9 KB ID:	308368


                I wanted a quick and easy way to change plates between the California and German versions. I found a set of rubberized magnets with a M5 sized stud built in. They fit perfectly in the license plate mounts that get pushed into the CSL trunk.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3503.jpg Views:	0 Size:	138.3 KB ID:	308373


                Cool idea except the plates are aluminum and don’t work with the magnets. I initially purchased some magnets to glue onto the plate itself. It didn’t work out, as the connection was weak, and the magnets were too thick. I settled on the thinnest piece of galvanized steel I could find. It was significantly stronger and more low profile. I epoxied them to the plate so that I could simply snap the plate on and off. I might end up just bailing on the whole idea and just using double sides tape so that it's even more low profile. Either way, it was a fun mini project.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3504.jpg Views:	0 Size:	319.1 KB ID:	308374 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3506.jpg Views:	0 Size:	98.2 KB ID:	308371
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3507.jpg Views:	0 Size:	151.9 KB ID:	308372


                Last step is to schedule the exact drop off date, remove the hood, then trailer the car over to Dave's shop. This will be in the next post.

                Here is another random project I was working on. I recently got a new bookshelf/console in my bedroom, I was looking for artwork to fill up the 5 shelves that the console has. For one of them, I purchased a bunch of used $5.00 BMW books on eBay, stacked them up and threw an old roundel next to it.
                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3281.jpg Views:	0 Size:	153.5 KB ID:	308375


                Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
                Crazy impressive work as always! Looking forward to the next update.

                Did you talk to the shop about paint brand? Glasurit yielded better(color match and clear coat quality) results than PPG in my recent experience and is what bmw factory uses afaik. If he's as good as you say then I'm sure you're covered either way!

                BTW this seems like a good time for a CF roof just sayin =)
                When I initially brought the car to Dave's shop, he walked out and said, "Ok, so, Glasurit, we'll do some testing." Thats about as far as the conversation went. I will discuss more details with him on drop off. Carbon roof is coming, I just couldn't justify it right now, lots going on with work and family at the moment. It will happen, probably sometime in 2026 though.



                Originally posted by Kipjames3 View Post
                Were there any issues or concerns with the MEs front bumper? I'm getting mine installed soon and just wondering if you found anything wrong or that needed corrected with it.
                ​No concerns, it was uneventful in the best way possible. One thing to note is that with the top weather stripping on the bumper, it was a bit hard push in. Without the weather stripping, it was significantly easier.
                Last edited by Avedis; Yesterday, 06:12 PM.

                Comment

                Working...
                X