Robs E46M Rosso Corsa Street Build

[robgill]

After a couple weeks of not much progress got back at it today. Got the body cleaned up, painted and ready for the subframe to go back in. First replaced the diff cover with a new one (including new bushings) and changed the fluid.


The diff didnt have any rust so just cleaned it up and hit it with a light coat of por-15:


Underneath I cleaned up any surface rust and also hit it with a coat of por-15. No its not the OE color but I care more about the rust prevention. Also replaced a couple rusty bolts and clamps. Overall though it was very clean.


I also cleaned up the wheel wells and sprayed on some Boom Mat. Super happy with the result, looks good and will hopefully reduce some road noise.




Hopefully back together next weekend!

[loudspeaker69]

Sorry if this is a spoiler alert if you happen to answer this early, but what rear strut bar are you going with?

Also - very curious if the Boom Matt will reduce noise during driving. Will be looking for your feedback especially on the highway.

Surprised and actually intrigued that you want reduced road noise.

I personally feel my E46 is too loud (by BMW standards) on the highway. Note: I have a stock exhaust.

[robgill]

I got a Puretech Sweden brace. I like that it ties into the rear subframe mounts and that it is low profile enough not to completely block the rear seat pass through.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS4u94eK4l9/?utm_medium=copy_link

Only noise I want to hear from this car is intake and exhaust 😂; and only when I’m on it hard. For just cruising around I’d like to eliminate as much road and wind noise as possible.

[loudspeaker69]

Will this be the only top mount reinforcement you do for the street car ?

Did you do any top-side reinforcement for the track car ?

[robgill]

Yep that’s it for this car.

The track car has no top side reinforcement. It will eventually have a welded in half cage tied to all subframe points. Haven’t done that in the past as I drove that car to the track and needed access to the rear seat space to load up spares and tools. I now tow it to the track so next big project in that car will be cage.

[loudspeaker69]

FYI,

Can’t find your Track car Journal (unless it was only on M3F).

[robgill]

FYI,

Can’t find your Track car Journal (unless it was only on M3F).

Yeah unfortunately it died with M3Forum 😟. I’ll recreate it eventually.

[robgill]

Progress! Over the weekend got it just about done. Was hoping to have it back on the road but a lot of small projects took up more time that I had planned. First I got the diff back in the subframe. Also decided to switch to Turner solid bushings instead of the OE bushings. I'm going with the logic that solid bushings are better for preventing subframe cracking and do not ad NVH if you stick with OE diff bushings. Guess we will find out... So here is the full updated list of rear bushing/bearings:

• Rear Trailing Arms - Turner Motorsport Sealed Monoball (Currently installed and love them)
• Outer Control Arms - Rogue Engineering Bearing (These are installed on my track car for last 5 years no issues and no NVH)
• Inner Control Arms - Rogue Engineering Bearing (These are installed on my track car for last 5 years no issues and no NVH. Additional bonus, they can be torqued down while not at ride height which means I can assemble the sub frame off the car)
• Sub Frame Mounts - Turner Motorsports solid
• Diff Mounts - OE (will match sub frame)

Next got new wheel bearings installed into the trailing arms which tool forever pressing them in with the HF tool. Turner RTAB and Rogue Engineering ball joints previously installed.


And finishing touch on the trailing arms is new hubs. Painted the back sides of the hubs to avoid rust.



Also got new dust shields and trimmed them up to fit the BBK as well and be able to take them on and off without removing the hubs.

[robgill]

Before installing the subframe I also installed some top side reinforcement. Went with PureTech Sweden solution for a couple reasons: First I think it looks amazing. Second I wanted a bar that ties into the subframe mounts as well as the shock towers. Lastly its a low X that doesn't completely block the seat pass through. It doesn't tie into the front subframe mounts but between plates/mounts/bar I'm satisfied with this solution to prevent cracking.

The install kit is very well designed. Comes with a drill bit guide and ling bit that lets you drill a pilot hole from below then open up the hole from above. They then supply a bolt that is longer and becomes the stud that the bar bolts to from above.


Hole cut and new bolt installed from below:


Bar fully installed. Tolerances are very tight and getting the bolts to all line up took a lot of adjusting. The instruction are pretty good but the one thing I would emphasize is to get the bar completely bolted in including the tower adapter first. Then drill and install the four bolts that go into the tower last. Also taking the shocks in and out a few times was a hassle and it would be easier to just get some temp bolts to hold down the adapters. I wanted the shock out so I could hit the bolts coming through the shock towers with paint and sound deadening so that they match the wheel wells and don't rust.


Fishing touch was to cut the floor board and carpet. I did this by using the same pilot drill from below and the same hole drill for a perfect fit. Still need to figure out the side trim pieces but will save that for later.

[robgill]

Time for the subframe to go back in for the last time. I installed the control arms and sway bar while it was off the car so I could torque all of the inner bolts down with easier access. Then lifted it in with a trans jack. Getting the subframe bolts to line up was a bit of a challenge but eventually it slid on.


Next was the trailing arms and axles. First lined up the top control arm bolt to hold the weight then got the trailing arm bolted into its pocket. Used this axle puller tool and wow did it make installing the splines easy!!


Finished up by installing the drive shaft and new e-brake cables. One more session this week should have it back in the road for some fall drives!!

[loudspeaker69]

Is the sheet metal that the rear strut bar bolts to all re-sprayed ?

I recently had mine redone because of a little rust and yours looks as clean as mine if not better and definitely a lighter color than stock ?

[robgill]

Is the sheet metal that the rear strut bar bolts to all re-sprayed ?

I recently had mine redone because of a little rust and yours looks as clean as mine if not better and definitely a lighter color than stock ?

Thats all factory, the original color was Titanium Silver. Overall this car is very clean.

[akshon]

Such a fresh car. What was used to paint the wheel liners?

[lvm3sm46]

Such a fresh car. What was used to paint the wheel liners?

Boom Mat spray

[robgill]

Such a fresh car. What was used to paint the wheel liners?

Boom Mat spray

Yep great stuff, very happy with the result:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001URKV0G/